Cartridge Filter Can't Keep Up

Jul 18, 2016
5
Jamesville NY
Hi folks,

This is my first post to the forum. My husband and I are a little stuck and don't know what to do. I grew up with a pool at my parent's house and worked for three years as my summer job in a pool store, so when we bought a house with a pool, I was comfortable with basic pool chemistry balance and clean-up procedures. However, what we were faced with turned out to be out of the ordinary. Although the pool was covered when we got it, it either wasn't closed properly or went an entire season without a cover. It was only half full and the water was BLACK. Once we filled it with water and got to scooping, we found about a truckload of leaves and dirt at the bottom. Lots of scooping and chlorine brought it to blueish murky fog. And that is where we sit now. I am still continuing to shock it to keep up with the algae.

The 24' above-ground pool came with an Aquatools AT84100 Cartridge Filter. At the beginning of this mess a couple of weeks ago, I replaced the cartridge with a new one (Sta-rite). It has been working fine. But because the pool has so many particulates in it, we are finding the water pressure from the return line decreases significantly within just a couple of hours of use after each time we clean the filter. We know we need to clean the cartridge often, but every two hours isn't feasible - we both work full time. My husband is concerned that the pump will overheat if we run it at this state, so because of that he is only running it a few hours in the evenings and then turning it off before we go to work or to bed. Unfortunately, that amount of filtering isn't going to clear this pool! I know that ideally we should be running it 24 hours for at least a few days straight while at shock level.

This is my first time ever working with a cartridge filter; I've always only used sand. Any tips on how to clean up an murky, algae-infested with a cartridge filter? How much can you run it between rinses and are our fears of overheating the pump valid? We would appreciate any tips to get us through this mess to clear it up! Thanks!
 
Hello and welcome to TFP! :wave: Your problem isn't with the filter or type of filter, it's chemistry. You have algae and no amount of filtering will kill algae. For that you need chlorine, but the precise amount. That's where the testing comes-in. What test kit are you using? Is it a TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C?

Also, please add your pool info to your signature by going to the top of the TFP web page (just under the Pool School button) and select "SETTINGS". On the next page look to the left for a menu bar that says, “MY SETTINGS” and go to "EDIT SIGNATURE" to enter your pool and equipment info there. Or you can click EDIT YOUR SIGNATURE. It will help us later. This link may also help you: Pool School - Read This BEFORE You Post.
 
Pat handled the chemistry part, so I'll concentrate on the pump and filter. As long as there is some flow through the pump, you don't have to worry about it overheating. It's only if the flow stops completely that you need to worry, and that is very unlikely to happen from algae clogging it up.

One issue with a cartridge filter is the fact that it requires cleaning frequently when trying to clear algae.
Unless the old filter cartridge was torn, I'd clean it up and then you could swap filters when they needed cleaning.

The best thing you can do is get good test results, as Pat said, and go from there.
 
Thanks, guys! I have to admit I have been SLAMing the pool, but not with the high-end test kits. I have been double-testing with the less expensive ones to ensure my chlorine is at shock level and that we have CYA. I know the high-end ones are valuable, but with the move to a new home we have been inundated with expenses and the $100 price tag was disconcerting! I guess I will have to poney up. But just to be clear with what Texas is saying: say the chlorine level is perfect. The water still won't clear up on its own without the filter running to remove the dead algae, correct?
 
Thanks, guys! I have to admit I have been SLAMing the pool, but not with the high-end test kits. I have been double-testing with the less expensive ones to ensure my chlorine is at shock level and that we have CYA. I know the high-end ones are valuable, but with the move to a new home we have been inundated with expenses and the $100 price tag was disconcerting! I guess I will have to poney up. But just to be clear with what Texas is saying: say the chlorine level is perfect. The water still won't clear up on its own without the filter running to remove the dead algae, correct?
The chlorine will continue to oxidize everything in the water, dead or alive, but yes, you need a proper filter to get all the particulates (dead algae and such) out of the pool.

If you can keep scooping debris out of the pool it will help tremendously. As the water gets cleaner it will require less and less cleaning of the filters.

Also, it is very important to keep the water circulating to help expose as much organic matter to the chlorine as possible. Do you know if it is possible to run the system without filters in it while you are away, or bypass the filter (like recirculate mode on a sand filter)?

If not, a cheap submersible pump could also be used.

Also, if you desire to follow TFP procedures, you will need a FAS/DPD chlorine test kit. It is impossible to do an OCLT without it, which is required to complete your slam.

Dom
 
Once you know there is no live algae, residual cloudiness could be from algae carcass waiting to be filtered. In addition to keeping chemicals mixed and flowing, that's why on the SLAM page it reiterates to keep the pump running 24/7 to help with filtration.
 
Also, it is very important to keep the water circulating to help expose as much organic matter to the chlorine as possible. Do you know if it is possible to run the system without filters in it while you are away, or bypass the filter (like recirculate mode on a sand filter)?

Dom

Yes, we can bypass the filter and I have considered trying that, too. Thanks!!

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Thank you, everyone for your help. I feel less lost now. BTW, I swear I added a signature but I'm apparently as good at that as clearing a pool! :)
 
Hi Everyone,
I'm back! We are still struggling. :(

So I got the 2005C and used your pool math calculator to get our chemicals in the proper balance and shock level. Right now we are at 29FC, 50CYA, 7.5ph and 110 Alk. The pool is still a cloudy, murky mess. But our filter seems to be clogging up at a very high rate. The PSI on the filter is reading around 30 when we start it with a rinsed filter and goes up to about 45 within a half an hour! The flow rate out of the return is very low. Any thoughts?
 
With a cartridge filter, you are probably better off bypassing it until all the algae is dead and starting to sink to the floor of the pool. At that point, you can vacuum to waste so you aren't constantly clogging the filter and having to clean it. With most of the dead algae removed, you can then start to filter as normal.

Otherwise, if you use the filter to do most of the clean up, be prepared to clean it frequently during the process.
 

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With a cartridge filter, you are probably better off bypassing it until all the algae is dead and starting to sink to the floor of the pool. At that point, you can vacuum to waste so you aren't constantly clogging the filter and having to clean it. With most of the dead algae removed, you can then start to filter as normal.

Otherwise, if you use the filter to do most of the clean up, be prepared to clean it frequently during the process.

Yes, we are leaning towards this method. So I was thinking of circulating it for chemical circulation about 12 hours/day and then letting it settle for 12 hours followed by vacuuming and then wall scrubbing, then repeat. What do you think?

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Sounds like it would've been easier to drain,cleanout, disinfect everything and start out new

I was under the impression homeowners should never drain a vinyl-lined above-ground pool (unless to replace a liner) due to the risk of shrinking the liner and possibly having to shell out thousands to get it replaced...
 
Yes, we are leaning towards this method. So I was thinking of circulating it for chemical circulation about 12 hours/day and then letting it settle for 12 hours followed by vacuuming and then wall scrubbing, then repeat. What do you think?
Sounds like a good plan.
 
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