Question about adding chlorine after stain treatment.

G

Guest

I plan on adding some chlorine after 24 hours of initial treatment, but how much and how often?
I understand why it's important not to shock the pool or bring the chlorine up too fast so stains don't reappear.
But since my CYA is relatively high (about 78), my target for FC is around 6.4PPM. That would mean requiring near-shock amounts of chlorine to aim for that level of FC. Going by the pool calculator, that means I would need to add 80oz of 10% bleach or 133oz of 6%. Is that adding too much chlorine too fast? Obviously, the ascorbic acid will eat much of it up, so I will be adding roughly the same amount the next day. Should I shoot for the target FC amount each time I add chlorine and is it best to do this once a day until it holds?

After adding the GLB Sequa Sol last night, I got some of the smokiness in the water. I saw this topic discussed here and it's apparently from too much sequestrant, which makes it hard to see all the stains. I looked at it this morning and it appears there is some sediment on the bottom of the pool, and still a little bit of staining. I added another .5lb of ascorbic acid and left pump running. I believe I put about 1.9lbs of ascorbic acid altogether in my 10,500 gal pool in the last 12-14 hours. Needless to say, it's going to take a while to get chlorine to hold again. I did add 6oz of polyquat at beginning of treatment. Too much? Too little algaecide?

Thanks,

PS: Vitamin Cottage drastically raised the price on its ascorbic acid. I believe its no longer cheaper than the Pool Stores. I paid about $39 for 1.9LBs.. I might have been better off buying from the pool store.

Rob
 
Reading the "hot to" article it says slowly bring it up, I would just start adding it slowly using your target of 6, maybe one jug every 30-60 minutes? When you've added all the jugs to reach your level of 6, after a couple hours test and see if its holding because you might need to add a little more. I don't think its' wise to pour all the bleach in all at once. The article says watch for staining and add more sequesterant if you see it.

Re: the amount of algaecide - it says to follow the dosing instructions on the bottle. Is that what the bottle recommended?
 
Okay. That makes sense. If my target dosage is 80OZ, I could add 20 or 40oz at a time every half hour or something like that.

My algaecide bottle recommends adding 11-17oz to address an aglae problem OR 6-11oz for a newly filled pool.
So, I went with the 6oz.




frustratedpoolmom said:
Reading the "hot to" article it says slowly bring it up, I would just start adding it slowly using your target of 6, maybe one jug every 30-60 minutes? When you've added all the jugs to reach your level of 6, after a couple hours test and see if its holding because you might need to add a little more. I don't think its' wise to pour all the bleach in all at once. The article says watch for staining and add more sequesterant if you see it.

Re: the amount of algaecide - it says to follow the dosing instructions on the bottle. Is that what the bottle recommended?
 
I could have stood to be a little more patient. I added an initial lb of ascorbic acid just to get the FC down to 0..
I wished I would have vacuumed first. I had just done it a couple of days ago, and didn't want to risk it getting dark before I started, so I skipped vacuuming.

none-the-less, it looks pretty promising so far.




frustratedpoolmom said:
I think you'll be fine with the 6 oz - it's not going to be without chlorine for long. :wink:
 
You don't want to add more than 1 lb per 10 k gallons or it's going to create a HUGE chlorine demand and you will probably turn green from algae until the chlorine actually holds. The cloudiness fromthe seqeaterant is normal and usually goes away in about 48 hours. It means everything is working as it should!
If you did not add any polyquat 60 I would put some in now.
In the future, if you need to lower the FC level the best thing to do is just wait, You can use a thiosufate based chlorine killer but if you ovedose you will have the same problems that too much ascorbic acid can cause.
Once you add the acorbic acid and sequesterant just ciruclate for 48 hours. If there is still staining remaining after that it's going to be a type of stain that ascorbic acid cannot treat.
 
Pool looks beautiful today, but...

I need a quick suggestion on buying a new sequestrant. I used the last of the SequaSol today, which was only about 3oz. I have two bottles on order, that won't be here until Tuesday. My two pool stores are very limited, so I only have two choices:
Staintrine or SequaSOL (at about $10 more a bottle than I paid for the stuff that's getting here Tuesday.

Which one would be best?

I still see some stains on the very bottom, particularly in the deep end. It's hard to tell if they are new or just stains that didn't get completely removed. I could live with it if it doesnt' get any worse, but I suspect it is. I am adding liquid bleach very slowly. So far, my FC level is only 1.5, and drops quickly every time I add a little.



waterbear said:
You don't want to add more than 1 lb per 10 k gallons or it's going to create a HUGE chlorine demand and you will probably turn green from algae until the chlorine actually holds. The cloudiness fromthe seqeaterant is normal and usually goes away in about 48 hours. It means everything is working as it should!
If you did not add any polyquat 60 I would put some in now.
In the future, if you need to lower the FC level the best thing to do is just wait, You can use a thiosufate based chlorine killer but if you ovedose you will have the same problems that too much ascorbic acid can cause.
Once you add the acorbic acid and sequesterant just ciruclate for 48 hours. If there is still staining remaining after that it's going to be a type of stain that ascorbic acid cannot treat.
 
So does Sequa Sol, either one should be fine. What you want to stay away from are the EDTA based Sequestarants. They will probably say something on the bottle about being phosphate free if the ingredients are not listed.
Any sequesterant based on HEDP, Phosphonates, or Phosphonic acid derivatives (these are interchangeable terms) would be fine.
 
Thanks, you did tell me to stick with the EDTA ones last week. The problem is too many of these bottles are not labeled or do not list the ingredients online.


waterbear said:
So does Sequa Sol, either one should be fine. What you want to stay away from are the EDTA based Sequestarants. They will probably say something on the bottle about being phosphate free if the ingredients are not listed.
Any sequesterant based on HEDP, Phosphonates, or Phosphonic acid derivatives (these are interchangeable terms) would be fine.
 

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