New Pool Owner - Water turned a light green

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JamesB4014

JamesB4014

0
Jul 14, 2016
14
Taylor, Texas
Pool was doing well till Tuesday. It was a little cloudy, changed filters and it cleaned up almost clear, then I added some algicide because we've had some rain - now pool is a light green. You can see the bottom easily, but water not clear. I'm thinking I OD the pool with algicide. I've changed the filters every other day with little impact.

It's very hot here 105+ during the day, but the water is cool.


Ph 7.4
Cl - 2.0
Alk - 140

Any help would be appreciated.
 
I'm not sure what has me more concerned ... that your water turned green or that you got rain and we didn't. :p Welcome to TFP! :wave: Let's re-cap ... cloudy water is an indication of algae beginning to bloom. The algaecide may not necessarily kill it, and it could have very well added copper to your water which, in significant amounts, can change the color/hue of your water when it hits the chlorine. Something they don't tell you about at the pool store. :)

So you have a few things to consider at the moment ... the test kit you are using is not one we at TFP recommend (TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C), so that will be a concern. It would help to know your FC, CC, and CYA levels. Based on your OTO "CL - 2" reading, I suspect your chlorine was already too low in this heat, hence the algae bloom. Hard to tell at this point if the green is temporary from the algaecide or from the algae taking shape.

It might help to post a pic of your water. I would still recommend either a TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C to obtain all the test results you'll need. With algae, you'll want to perform a TFP "SLAM" (link below) to eliminate the algae. Hopefully that's the source of the green and not the little bit of algaecide in a pool over 12K in size. Now if you added other products in the past, please let us know as well. That could help in the overall diagnosis. Nice to have you with us.
 
I'll post pics first thing in the morning and also purchase one of the recommended test kits. Also, my neighbor just reminded me that the city did a major disinfection of the water system here about the time the water turned. With the low humidity and high temps we add a lot of water. Not sure if this is part of the problem, but thought i'd add it to help complete the problem statement.
 
Based on the advice of the moderators, until you get the test kit, with Cl so low, dump a gallon a day into the pool. Depending on your CYA level (needs to be 30-60, optimal), you could be needing to raise Cl to 12 - 24ppm for your SLAM. It works - we've all done it.

That may sound like a lot, but TFP method is based primarily on Cl:CYA ratio, as long as pH is 7.5.

Until you get your test kit, a gallon a day will not hurt anything and help keep the bloom in check.

Hope this helps.

EDIT: Stay away from the Pool Store recommendations. I've never used Algaecide - just liquid Chlorine. It's way cheaper and does, ultimately, kill the algae.
 
The picture seems to confirm algae more than anything else. So I would agree that until your test kit arrives, simply add about 1 gallon of bleach to the water each evening. In the meantime, keep the pump running and brush everyday to stir-up the junk and prevent it from attaching to the pool shell. Once you get your test kit, post a full set of results and we'll be able to get surgically accurate with your chemicals. :)
 
Congrats on the new kit! Well, it definitely confirms our suspicion - algae. Even if your water has cleared-up, you have some stuff living in there ready to pounce again. Here's what I would recommend.... start a TFP "SLAM" link below. First, ensure your CYA is at least 30. If it is lower, add enough stabilizer to get it to 30.
To increase CYA via granular stabilizer, place the required amount as calculated by the Poolmath calculator into a white sock and place in the poolside skimmer basket. For those concerned about suction flow to the pump, suspending the sock near a return jet or from a floating device will also suffice. Best never to allow undissolved granules to rest directly against the pool surface. Squeeze the sock periodically to help it dissipate. Once dissolved, consider your CYA adjusted to that programmed (target) level. CYA test readings should show a rise in 24-48 hours, however some pools may experience a longer delay to fully register. Best to confirm final CYA in about 5-7 days before adding any more stabilizer/conditioner.
Click to expand...

While you have that soaking, go ahead and lower the pH to about 7.2 with muriatic acid. You can check it again in about 30 minutes to see if it's close. Once that's done, increase your FC to "12" using regular bleach. HEB's Bravo or Walmart's Great Value or Pool Essentials will work. Test and maintain that FC level as much as needed to keep it there. Also make sure to brush your pool at least once a day to get anything off of the surfaces that may still be lingering. Follow the SLAM page and you'll do fine.

We can discuss TA and CH after your SLAM. :)

Good luck!
 

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Are you saying you only lost 1.0 FC overnight and your CC is 0.5? Is the water clear and not green anymore? Do the full battery of tests and post numbers for us. You can do the 10mL test on the chlorine instead of the 25mL. Each drop is 0.5 instead of 0.2. Saves reagents!
 
Correct lost 1.0 FC and CC 0.5, water is clear. Updated results posted above.
I just joined the forum so this is the first time I've performed a SLAM.

Very Very hot here 100+ every day for last 2 weeks, so adding water a couple of times per week. Seems like I need to add raise CYA to 30-40.
 
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