Brand new owner. Confused how I can test for FC.

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T

thegoat54

0
Dec 29, 2015
18
Hamilton
Hi everyone.

I've got a 18' Round. 8200 Gallon. AG. Salt Water Pool that I just finished assembling. I've filled with city water and have not added any chemicals yet.

I've been doing my readings and it is recommended that my FC level be at 5 for my pool.

The test kit that came with the pool only goes up to 3. (The yellow scale).

The manual for my SWG says that I need to get the levels up before turning it on.

How can I get the level to 5?
 
The TF-100, which is what I use, is available from TFTestkits.net and Pool Supply World in California. I have been buying mine from TFTestkits.net for many years now. They always ship within 24 hours and you should get it in less than a week. They also do an email blast each spring with a refill kit for around 35 bucks so you only have to buy the full meal deal once. I generally only have to buy the refills every other year.

You don't list a state but if its MO I would definitely recommend TFT. This test kit will not only measure FC but all the other components to manage your pool effectively. Pool School - Recommended Levels, You would look at the Vinyl with SWG targets. Welcome and good luck!!

TFTestkits.net
 
Gonna need a Taylor K-2006 or a TF-100 to get an accurate reading on FC levels.. The HTH style testers don't narrow it down and are really only good to let you know there is "some" chlorine in the water.
Without knowing the rest of the levels, ITs hard to make an accurate guess.. Both kits will allow you to pinpoint issue and remedies for anything that happens to the water

Poolmath- 8200 gal from 0 to 6 FC will be about 1/2 gallon 8.25% bleach to start, however, if there is no CYA in the pool, this will burn off very fast (CYA is sunscreen for Chlorine)

Don't fiddle with the SWG until you get your pool clear and sanitary. Test your fill water and see what you baseline is and go from there
 
+1 on getting that test kit may seem expensive but even one time of the pool going green could equal the cost of the kit. In the mean time there is a link at the top of the page called PoolMath you can put the volume of your pool in there 8200 gallons and in the field for FC put 0 in the now number 5 in the target and the strength of chlorine you plan on using (8.25% if you plan on using Clorox) Yes you can use Clorox aka plain bleach as long as it is not scented or splash-less.

You also need CYA in the pool if you don't already have some in there going to guess you do if you came up with 5 for your FC level


Looks like cj3737 types faster than I do will still post just to support the idea
 
Agree with Pool Tool. The TF-100 is a superb value. In the meantime, I would also recommend watching/adjusting the following to keep your water from deteriorating on your while waiting for the kit:
- We recommend a CYA (stabilizer) minimum of 70 for a SWG pool. You should get that going right away.
To increase CYA via granular stabilizer, place the required amount as calculated by the Poolmath calculator into a white sock and place in the poolside skimmer basket. For those concerned about suction flow to the pump, suspending the sock near a return jet or from a floating device will also suffice. Best never to allow undissolved granules to rest directly against the pool surface. Squeeze the sock periodically to help it dissipate. Once dissolved, consider your CYA adjusted to that programmed (target) level. CYA test readings should show a rise in 24-48 hours, however some pools may experience a longer delay to fully register. Best to confirm final CYA in about 5-7 days before adding any more stabilizer/conditioner.
Click to expand...

Next, always ensure you have some FC. Day 1/fresh water adjust FC to 3 using just regular bleach (generic is fine). Do not use splashless or scented bleaches. After your stabilizer has dissolved (CYA), increase FC to about 5 ppm. Do the best you can with the comparator view until your TF-100 arrives. Eventually you'll convert from manual additions of bleach to letting your SWG take over. Until that happens, watch the FC level throughout the day. Never let it drop below 3.

You pH should be between 7.5-7.8. You can add the salt anytime to let it start dissolving.

You can refer to the Pool School link from the home page, or bookmark the vital links you see below in my sig for future reference. Those links, along with yoru TF-100, are what will keep your water crystal clear.
 
You can do both today. The FC will burn off quicker than it otherwise would until the CYA gets dissolved, so you may want to test a couple of times a day for the next 2 or 3 days. The chlorine level is the most important right now so you don't develop a problem that has to be dealt with later.

Edit: FYI, you will read this in the pool school articles but I just want to point out that your FC aka chlorine target will be dependent on how much CYA is in the pool based on this chart chlorine/CYA CHART
 
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