Is there any difference between slamming an indoor pool against an outdoor pool
FC 2.6
CC 2.4
PH 7.6
TA 100
CH 480
CA 20
Temp 30 Celsius
FC 2.6
CC 2.4
PH 7.6
TA 100
CH 480
CA 20
Temp 30 Celsius
Slamming an indoor pool
- Thread starter denniswiseman
- Start date
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,789
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Not really, other than your levels will be a little lower since you normally have a lower CYA. So with a CYA of about 20, your SLAM FC value will be at about 10. You'll still want to lower pH to the 7.2-7.4 range, even though you don't expect to have a really high FC (over 10), but it is still part of the SLAM protocol. Everything else on the SLAM page should still apply. Good luck!
Thanks for that
I couldn't find anywhere on the site about indoor pools
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I couldn't find anywhere on the site about indoor pools
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,789
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
They are in the bottom of my signature. 
Or are you referring that historical product known as "Jesse's Spreadsheet"?
Or are you referring that historical product known as "Jesse's Spreadsheet"?
One thing with indoor pools, when doing SLAM you don't want to go too much over SLAM level as it takes a LONG time for FC to drop if you overshoot.
Let me ask though, what is the current condition of the pool, how does it look?
Also have you been using any MPS based non chlorine shock products?
Let me ask though, what is the current condition of the pool, how does it look?
Also have you been using any MPS based non chlorine shock products?
It's a bit cloudy after doing an AA stain treatment and finishing it of with an underwater acid wash
I have only been using sodium hypochlorite 13.5%
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I have only been using sodium hypochlorite 13.5%
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I have virtually finished slamming but still have cloudy water which doesn't settle
I have vacuumed but there was very little to remove
There is a flocculant in the filter from the pump skimmer basket
The image is at a depth of 3.5 feet
I have vacuumed but there was very little to remove
There is a flocculant in the filter from the pump skimmer basket
The image is at a depth of 3.5 feet
Last edited:
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,789
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
I would recommend continuing the SLAM since you do need to pass all 3 SLAM criteria (link below) - clear water being one of the requirements. As for the Floc, those products have their place at times but can also cause more problems than what they're worth - especially in a filter. If you haven't deep cleaned your filter this season I would recommend you do so following the Deep Cleaning a Sand Filter page.
Once you pass the OCLT and CCs are no more thab 0.5ppm, then you might consider adding a little DE to help your sand as noted on the Pool School - Add DE to a Sand Filter page. But make sure to do the deep cleaning first.
Once you pass the OCLT and CCs are no more thab 0.5ppm, then you might consider adding a little DE to help your sand as noted on the Pool School - Add DE to a Sand Filter page. But make sure to do the deep cleaning first.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,789
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Please reference the link provided above. You don't need much. Just enough to increase psi by one.
- May 23, 2015
- 24,400
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Is the flocculant removed?
Normally you add floc directly to the pool water, let it mix for an hour and then shut the pumps off. The next day there should be a flocc'd layer of sediment on the pool floor that you vacuum out to waste. You always vacuum floc to waste, never through the filter or else you will clog the filter or, if fine enough, the sediment you flocc'd will shoot past the filter and go right back into the pool.
You should never add flocc to the filter by putting it in the skimmer. Not only can you clog up your filter but you can also over-flocc your pool water which actually CAUSES more cloudiness by resuspension of fine particles.
Normally you add floc directly to the pool water, let it mix for an hour and then shut the pumps off. The next day there should be a flocc'd layer of sediment on the pool floor that you vacuum out to waste. You always vacuum floc to waste, never through the filter or else you will clog the filter or, if fine enough, the sediment you flocc'd will shoot past the filter and go right back into the pool.
You should never add flocc to the filter by putting it in the skimmer. Not only can you clog up your filter but you can also over-flocc your pool water which actually CAUSES more cloudiness by resuspension of fine particles.
Being as I don't need much I have been looking on Ebay and have come across food grade Diatomaceous Earth is this the same?
The flocculant is removed and a deep clean done on the filter. I have also started the OCLT. My indoor pool has a thermal blanket over it so it should be unaffected by the sun
The flocculant is removed and a deep clean done on the filter. I have also started the OCLT. My indoor pool has a thermal blanket over it so it should be unaffected by the sun
No, it is not. Pool filter DE is heat treated to fracture the DE particles and make them sharp and catch stuff, this is also a big part of what makes them an inhalation risk.
- May 23, 2015
- 24,400
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Like Isaac-1 said.... NOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!
Do not put food grade DE in your pool, it will create a HUGE mess!!
Do not put food grade DE in your pool, it will create a HUGE mess!!
Similar threads
