Need Help-New Pool- Test results attached

[stemski]

I just set up the pool 2 days ago. Here is what I have done so far:

1. Adjusted TA to 175 ppm with baking soda (pH went to 8.2)
2. Adjusted pH to 7.4 with pH decreaser (sodium bisulfate)
3. CH was already 190 ppm
4. FC = 1-2 ppm 5. TC = 2 ppm
6. Charged 4 Fl OZ algaecide
7. CYA = 50 ppm (I did not have to add any CYA)

After 2 days, here are my results:

1. TA = 170 ppm
2. pH = 8.2
3. CH = 160 ppm
4. FC = 0-1 ppm (I charged soluble chlorine granules until level was 1-2 ppm). I then added 1"-tablets in float, FC is closer to 0 then 1
5. TC = 1 ppm
6. CYA = 40-50 ppm

If it makes a difference, my pool is only exposed to 3-4 hours of sun per day.

I want to know 3 things:
1. How does everyone else usually charge chlorine? (As 6% bleach)
2. How can I lower pH?
3. What is the right order when it comes to adjusting the above numbers? Do you adjust TA first, then pH, or what?
4. How does rainwater impact the results?

In case my signature is screwed up, let me tell you that my pool has 3500 gallons, it is AG from Walmart, the water is crystal clear and I use a cartridge in the small filter I have

Thanks,
Aaron

 

[duraleigh]

Hi, Aaron,

I'm not sure what you mean by the word "charge" or "charged". Explain that in a bit more detail and then I'll post back. :lol:

 

[frustratedpoolmom]

Welcome Aaron.

What was your TA before you added baking soda? Because it's now too high, and appears that your PH is going to rise because of it. See Recommended Levels in Pool School.

You'll need to lower the TA - read how to do it in Pool School - and this will help your PH to be more stable.

You don't have enough chlorine in your pool - refer to the CYA chart. You need to keep enough FC for your CYA level, never letting it go below minimum. If your FC isn't holding overnight, you'll need to shock your pool. You can read about that in Pool School.

Charging? That's a terminology issue. Do you mean pour in? We pour it in front of the return.

As for algaecide, it's not usually necessary in a properly balanced and chlorinated pool.

The order of things... you need to keep enough FC up by daily adding bleach, and you can adjust the TA as advised above, which should stabilize things. Don't add Muratic Acid and Bleach at the same time.

So in summary, Read Pool School, and if you still have further questions we'd be glad to help.

 

[stemski]

Sorry about using the term charge. I am a chemist and we use the word charge instead of add or pour.

TA was 40 before adding baking soda

I will read thru Pool School to work out the problem

Thanks,
Aaron

 

[PaulR]

The 1" tabs will increase your CYA over time; you're good where you are so you probably want to stop using them.

Re your questions:
1. I pour the bleach/liquid chlorine slowly in front of a return jet, with the pump running.
2. The usual method is muriatic acid; dry acid (ph decreaser, sodium bisulfate) also works.
3. Chlorine first, then pH, then TA. Lowering TA is a process of lowering pH and then raising it again through aeration; see this article in Pool School.
4. Not much. Large quantities of rain will dilute whatever you have, but it will have no particular TA or CH or anything.

--paulr

 

[Casey]

If your CYA is 50, how did it get that high if you just filled and didn't add any? Usually, fresh water contains no CYA.

Off to Pool School for you! We can help you but you need Pool School'ed first.