How do I convert from an aqualink PDA-4 to a PDA-8 to get move Aux ports

[shenard]

I current have a Jandy PDA-4 system that only has the filter pump plus 3 aux and my addiiotnal aux ports are currently being used by my booster pump/cleaner, air blower for spa and pool lights. We are adding a slide that will be plumbed into the return line. I have a few questions.

I am considering converting the PDA system to the iAqualink system to be able to control from my iPhone but I also want additional aux ports to be able to control additional JVA valves or auxiliary items and not sure if I can buy the iAqualink upgrade panel and RF box that also has the additional aux ports like the PDA 8 or not.

My ultimate goal is the plumb the slide into my return line with a neverlube Jandy valve that has a JVA2444 actuator on it that I can turn on or off from either the PDA (if I stay with that system) or my Iphone. Jandy told me I could simply hook in the JVA 3-plug harness to the JVA Cleaner or Solar Heater and assign it Aux 4-7 if I had a PDA-8 but I only have the PDA-4.

Can someone possibly help me with what my options are?

Thanks,

Scott

 

[Rossterman]

The Iaqualink 2.0 upgrade works as an rs8 so as long as you buy the version that comes with the mainboard you should be good. I love the ability to control the pool from my phone at my office or ipad at home.

As a low cost alternative, you could just plumb the slide piping the into the filter discharge (pool return) and put a simple pvc ball valve to control flow and stick with the rs4. The slides actually dont need a bunch of water to operate so using an automated valve, it would barely be open. Everything on our pool is automated with the slide tied into the waterfall pump being the only manual valve.

 

[shenard]

As a low cost alternative, you could just plumb the slide piping the into the filter discharge (pool return) and put a simple pvc ball valve to control flow and stick with the rs4. The slides actually dont need a bunch of water to operate so using an automated valve, it would barely be open. Everything on our pool is automated with the slide tied into the waterfall pump being the only manual valve.

See the attached picture of our pool equipment.



I have a few questions as to what you are saying.

1. If I add my T fitting to the straight horizontal pipe (filter discharge) and then add a manual Jandy valve to turn on and off the slide will I have any problems with decreasing the flow into the heater too much and have any flow sensor issues where my heater won't turn on whenever the slide is drawing water?

2. If I add the T fitting to the vertical pipe (heater discharge) before the automatic chlorinator, will it get enough water pressure to the slide? Gravity pushes water down and my concern would be that I either wouldn't get enough water pressure to the slide?

If I add the slide valve in either of these locations do you guys think that I may not get enough chlorine to the pool since it would be pulling all the water pre-chlorinator? We will probably just turn on the slide when we are in the pool using it.

Thanks,

Scott

 

[Rossterman]

Your tie in should be downstream of all equipment just before pipe goes into the ground and back to the pool returns. Sorry i wasnt clearer. You dont want to bypass heater, chlorinator, etc.

 

[shenard]

Your tie in should be downstream of all equipment just before pipe goes into the ground and back to the pool returns. Sorry i wasnt clearer. You dont want to bypass heater, chlorinator, etc.

Would it still work if I put it in either of the two locations I had in the pictures? I do not really have a way of adding it into the return lines downstream of all of the equipment without significantly re-plumbing my entire return line and possibly raising all the pipes up.

 

[thepoolman]

It should work fine tying it in before the heater and chlorinator. A couple things that have already been stated apply...
-You'll only have it on when you're using it
-They don't take much water to run

I would also argue that plumbing it after the chlorinator could cause issues with the small tubing that those slides use.

 

[shenard]

It should work fine tying it in before the heater and chlorinator. A couple things that have already been stated apply...
-You'll only have it on when you're using it
-They don't take much water to run

I would also argue that plumbing it after the chlorinator could cause issues with the small tubing that those slides use.

The slide is the Turbo Twister from SR Smith TurboTwister Pool Slide - Official S.R. Smith Products
and calls for up to 25 gallons per minute so I am not sure I would say they don't require that much water to run. Probably can get by with less since it has a hose fitting but the recommended line directly into the slides water supply system is 1 1/2"

 

[Rossterman]

I have the xtreme 2 slide and the feed line is 1" flexible hose from the concrete up. I guess it depends which kind of slide you have but mine doesnt need much to work and the discharge valve from my 3hp waterfall pump is 90% or more closed. As the poolman says, there are a number of ways to plumb it.

BTW ours is downstream of the SWG and heater/solar. Been going fine for 10 years without any apparent affect on the flexible feed line to the slide but a lower explosure to chlorine cant hurt.

 

[shenard]

Thanks for the replies. I think I am going to try option #1 and put a T inline after the filter before the heater and see how that works. It will be the easiest place to tap into and also the easiest to convert back if it doesn't work to our likings.