Help Troubleshooting a Jandy 1400 AquaPure

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LynnOnTheWeb

LynnOnTheWeb

LifeTime Supporter
Jun 16, 2013
144
Austin, TX
Pool Size
16000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Hi All,

I posted this the other day about replacing my SWG, but decided to try to troubleshoot one last time.
Time To Replace SWG. Suggestions?

Here's where I was/am:

  • SWG hasn't been generating chlorine for a while. I've been using bleach and decided it was time to either fix or get it replaced.
  • Cell was replaced last year. It wasn't generating before and new salt cell just kicked off more errors. That's when I gave up.
  • Ping on the forums suggested I might be having flow issues since I got a new VS speed pump. That made a little sense to me based on some things I was seeing. So, I pumped up to my "cleaning" speed and decided to start the troubleshooting process again.
  • The error I got at first was 123 - cell either needed cleaning or there were power issues to the cell. Cleaned cell, it went away.
  • No new error codes, but I was getting "No Flow" reading on the display
  • Read some stuff here that made me think I need to re-add the mini-board that I took off when I got the new salt cell and it came with the Sensor Indicator Module.
  • Now I'm getting Error 125 and 194. I have the jumper on (I actually did this by soldering it after troubleshooting another time). My sensor module is set to Program B based on the firmware on my AquaPure. FIRMWARE: 07270A0405

I'm a little stumped from here. The problem seems to be with the mini-board/not mini-board combo I'm guessing but all of the variables start adding up to make for tough troubleshooting. I"m hoping someone here that understands the big picture can offer assistance.

Thanks,

Lynn
 
Last edited:
Something occurred to me. The new cell comes with the Sensor Indicator Module. Does that override the "No Flow" on the display? Meaning, since I have a green flow light on there, does it show that I have flow, thus I'm troubleshooting something that doesn't need fixing?

Lynn
 
Went ahead and removed the miniboard. Errors gone now. The display no longer says "No Flow." Hopefully all will hold. I'm re-balancing all chemistry to Pool School SWG levels now and getting chlorine where it needs to be via bleach. Hopefully when all is in balance, I'll notice that the SWG is working as it should.

Fingers crossed.
 
Code 194 means that the current going to the cell is too low.

This is probably due to a bad power cord, bad cell prongs, low salt, a scaled cell or a bad cell.

First, check the cord connections. Look in the three plug holes to make sure that the metal is clean and not corroded. Then check the prongs. Make sure that they are clean and not leaking water where they go into the cell. Feel the prongs to make sure that they feel secure and not loose.

Then, make sure that the salt level is good using a Taylor K-1766 salt test kit. Compare it to the salt reading on the box. Make sure that the salt is at least 3.2 (3,200 ppm).

Then, pull the cell and look for scale. Also look at the end of the center plate where the center prong connects. Is it straight and smooth or is it all eaten up? Look carefully, with a good light.
 
Thanks for all of this info, James.

I've ordered a new Taylor kit, but didn't add the salt tester. Other forum posts indicate that for salt, the strips are "close enough." Do you disagree?

I've pulled the cell and cleaned it. There was a little build-up, but very little. I've checked the cord, there was a little corrosion on the middle prong. I cleaned it. I bought a new multi-meter to test the voltage of everything per the troubleshooting guide, got it home and the darned thing didn't work. I'm going to re-visit that in the next couple of days.

Can you explain this suggestion:
Then check the prongs. Make sure that they are clean and not leaking water where they go into the cell.
Click to expand...
You're referring to the power cord prongs? Why would there be water in there?

In the meantime, everything seems to be working as long as I'm on the higher RPM setting. I think my salt level is lower then you indicate it should be, but in the range of what the Jandy display calls for. I will double check that and add more if needed.
 
There are three prongs that go into the cell. The center one connects to the center plate and the two outer prongs connect to the two outer plates. There are 13 plates total. The prongs go through the cell housing and are partially secured by a cover plate that compresses O-rings on each prong. Look closely and you will see two small screws holding the cover plate down over the prongs.

Sometimes the prongs get corroded and come loose or the o-ring seals leak and water gets in the cell cord holes causing corrosion.
 

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Thank, I was afraid of that. I checked the warranty, not in the timeframe.

Okay, so strategic question. Since my system is already almost 10 years old should I just take this opportunity to replace it or should I just replace the salt cell and see if it keeps lasting? The salt cell seems to be the most expensive part and I don't want to get stuck with a working salt cell that I have to replace because my system fails.
 
You can get a new cell and replace the power supply if it fails or you can just get a whole new system.

It’s a judgment call. There’s no easy answer. It depends on multiple factors.
 
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