New house, 1st pool

[Jaysonl76]

So I will update the signature line when I get into the property again later this week. The pool in an IG L shape (guessing about 30,000 gal), degraded plaster, no SWG, other then that I was not looking that close yet.

I've been reading through a lot lately (thanks!), I ordered my T-100 test kit (be here end of the week hopefully). I close next Thursday, I'm doing a walk through on Monday or Tuesday. I think the people have already moved out last week so no telling the last time it had any chlorine added. I did not see a puck floater there the two times I was there.

1) If I grab a water sample when I'm there can it wait a few days for my test kit to come in? Or should I just wait until I move in?
2) When I'm there should I (blindly) put a gallon of 10% in?

Just looking for what to do first? Want to start it off on the right foot.
Thanks,
Jayson

 

[rolo918]

Since you ordered your kit you're on the right track
just wait till you move in and give us a water sample then

 

[MarianParoo]

An old sample will not test well. No worries. We will get you fixed up.

 

[Jaysonl76]

OK, kit came in today and we had a walk through so I grabbed some water. Hopefully I did this right:

FC - 1.5
TC - 0-0.5
pH - 8.2
TA - 2800?
CH - 1300
CYA - 100

Water looked pretty clear today, the people moved out over 4th of July week end.

So I know pool math wants me to exchange a lot of water, but I would like to get through this season before (hopefully) starting a remodel. Where do I go from here?

 

[rolo918]

You're going to need to retest your alkalinity and your hardness those numbers are not correct

If your pH test is correct you're going to need to bring your pH down with some acid

 

[Jaysonl76]

ok, on the TA and CH retest. Let me re-try ans I'll post the results.
Thanks

 

[Jaysonl76]

ok, had some errors in testing and math.

TA - 270
CH - 675

Still pool math wants 60% replacement. I'll retest all these numbers on Thursday when I get the keys but thoughts?

 

[rolo918]

If those are your real numbers you going to have to do a partial drain there's no way around it

 

[triptyx]

The main reason I'd replace water would be the 100 CYA. That's going to require a much higher chlorine level to keep the pool sanitized and algae free. That said, I know that SoCal is crazy about water restrictions. So if you can't replace water, your best bet is going to be to use PoolMath and determine the FC level you'll need to maintain to avoid problems for now, and then meanwhile do everything you can to put fresh water into the pool whenever possible (water the lawn out of it, catch rainwater and put it into it, etc) to slowly lower that CYA value to something more reasonable.

Did you perform a dilution test? Is the CYA really 100 or is it higher than that?

The high TA will come down as you add Muriatic Acid to offset the pH rise that a TA that high will likely induce. Don't worry about it for now other than to be aware you'll need to test pH daily and keep an eye on it.

The pH value of 8.2 is of great concern to me. That needs to be brought under control with Muriatic Acid ASAP. It could be 8.2, it could be higher! You'll also want to add Bleach (no tabs, no solid chlorine of any kind for you!) immediately to get the FC up above 8 (I'd target 13, don't go below 8) to avoid an algae breakout. Bear in mind that once you're above an FC of 10, the pH test will be inaccurate.

 

[Jaysonl76]

CYA: I did not do the dilution test (I don't think) I just did the normal lower mark with pool water then upper with R-0013. I just re tried it and got near 100 again, maybe 90 ish?

As soon as I get the keys the plan is to add Muriatic Acid and bleach (using pool math). and re-test of course.

I'm a little weary of filling the pool with the well (my first well, it's a new 8" 750 foot deep) so I thought I have to have it delivered (which is not cheap in California). I just want to get through a few months then start a remodel hopefully.

 

[MarianParoo]

Here is the link to the dilution test. See item 9:
Pool School - CYA

 

[Jaysonl76]

I did not do that, next time I test I'll do that one. Thanks.

 

[triptyx]

The key to a clean, clear pool is knowing your CYA - that dictates the amount of chlorine you need to have (FC) to make sure nothing grows. I know access is limited right now, let's get that number as soon as you're able. No worries.

If you're under contract, mention to your agent that not moving into a swamp is important to you and that you'd like to swing by again soon to run another test. I just went through that myself - luckily nothing grew before I moved in - my CYA was over 200.

Congrats on the new pool (and house, haha), stick with us and we'll help you as much as you need us to.

 

[MarianParoo]

I have a well also. If you can have your well inspector, (or county extension office), give you a metals analysis of your well water, that will help a ton. That is standard practice in our area. Then you will know what you are dealing with in terms of metals. Other high or low chemical levels we can deal with easily.

 

[Meadow]

Jayson,
Would be nice if you can start with new fill. If I were you I will call the city water provider and tell them that you just moved in. Kindly explain that your pool needs to be drain and fill in order to complete the repair and or maintenance. Inquire about the penalties (water restrictions) or discount towards your water bill if any.

In my County, our water provider allow pool owners to completely drain and fill their pool once every 4 yrs for maintenance or repair purposes, setting aside water restrictions. I just filled our 20k gals pool last month for less than $50. Other water providers in SD county also allow pool owners to drain/fill once every 4 or 5 yrs. CS or billing dep't has the records. You're out of luck if your pool was recently filled by the previous owner. But it won't hurt to try, though! Your call