Is this skimmer installed correctly?

MrFlash · May 27, 2009

Need some more advice here. This is a Hayward sikmmer. It was installed in 2000, before we bought the house. The cutout where the skimmer is, is corroded badly, and we had been getting rust stains on the pool liner. It doesn't seem like it was installed correctly, as there was a gasket between the face plate and the liner with the liner being in direct contact with the steel pool wall. The part of the wall that is corroded is in direct contact with the pool water. That's not right, is it? What model of Hayward Skimmer should be installed in a vinyl liner pool with steel walls?

Thanks for any help,
k

waste · May 27, 2009

It's the right skimmer. However, there should be a 'cardboard' gasket betwixt the pool wall and the liner and then another between the liner and faceplate!

Sand as much rust off as you can and use Rustolium spray paint to halt the rusting - then make sure that both gaskets get installed this time :hammer:

MrFlash · May 27, 2009

Thanks Waste! k

Big Thunder · May 29, 2009

With a mechanical background may I suggest that you wire brush off as much as the loose rust you can without digging into the more solid material, then I would use one of the many available rust-to-primer converters available. I recommend Mar-Hyde, which is available at any marine store. Then spray paint.

MrFlash · May 29, 2009

Thanks Big Thunder. I appreciate the advice. I scraped on corrosion with a putty knife and the steel edges are pretty much crumbling away. I will get the wire wheel after it to see what i have left to work with.

I do some car restoration, and have some Eastwood Corroless which a brushable (or sprayable if thinned) rust neutralizer/stabilizer and was considering using it, followed by a sprayable top coat. I will check on the Mar-Hyde line, but i think it is similar. I also have some metal conditioner (phospohric acid base), which will kill any remaining rust that is there, and it shouldn't hurt the plastic.

I looked at this again, and i still really don't see how the hayward skimmer really keeps water from contacting the steel walls. If everything was installed perfectly, it looks as though the cut edges of the pool wall would still be exposed. I would think a better design would be one where the plastic throat of the skimmer protruded through the pool wall, and the vinyl liner was sandwiched between it and the faceplate. k

Big Thunder · Jun 1, 2009

Yeah that Corrodless should work just fine - actually the same stuff.

I completely forgot about the metal conditioner! Good stuff.

TonyV · Jun 5, 2009

MrFlash-

I have the same problem you do - and the same concern about the design of the skimmer.

vinyl-pool-steel-wall-repair-and-step-replacement-t12481.html

I am actually replacing my skimmer because I am doing so much other work on the pool. I was told by someone at a pool store that newer skimmers are designed differently and the liner is installed on top of the skimmer, not the steel wall. I have not seen a newer skimmer yet, so I can't verify that.

Can any of the pool pros out there verify that newer skimmers get installed differently (and the water does not touch the steel wall)?

Thanks,

-TonyV

waste · Jun 5, 2009

Sure thing Tony - It's confirmed :whoot:

DrC · Jun 5, 2009

I just replaced my 15 year old widemouth skimmer due to a small crack after waiting for it to come off of backorder (but that is another story for another time).

My water level was all ready below the skimmer level so it was the time to do it. The whole process takes less than 30 minutes. A second set of hands is also helpful if your skimmer is attached to your wall on the exterior as ours was.

Here is my 12 step program, Hope it helps :goodjob:

1. Lower water level below the skimmer level.

2. Remove the hose or piping from the skimmer.

3. Remove faceplate from the cover location.

4. Remove gasket(s) being careful not to tear or stretch the liner.

5. Remove screws that mount skimmer to the steel wall. This may require a very short screwdriver and again be careful with your liner.

6. Clean skimmer location of wall and liner to remove any debris or other items. Check steel wall for damage and repair as needed.

7. Attach new skimmer to steel wall. Make sure screws are stainless steel.

8. Place one new gasket on each side of your liner at the skimmer opening and line up with the holes from where you removed the screws. Place a couple of screws through the cover plate and then push them through first gasket, the liner and second gasket. (I used the top two corners) Line up the cover plate, gaskets and liner combination to the mounted skimmer and start screws only a couple of threads. This will allow you to see the line up for the rest of the screws.

9. Place the remaining screws in place making sure to push them through the original holes in your liner and each gasket. Start each screw into the skimmer again only a couple of turns.

10. Once all screws are in the correct place and started you can begin to tighten the screws in a systematic approach. Tighten the screws a few more turns each starting with the screws in the center and moving towards each edge. Such as center top, center bottom, next left top, next left bottom, next right top, next right bottom. You should be able to watch the gaskets squeezing the liner as you tighten the screws and it should be smooth with no buckles in the gasket. Once that is completed go back to the center screws and tighten again until all of the screws are flush in the cover plate.

11. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN the screws. You only need to compress the two gaskets against both sides of the liner. If you over tighten the screws you could crack your face plate.

12. Reattach hose or piping to the skimmer, fill the pool and enjoy. :party:

Once installed in this manner you should not have any water getting in contact with the steel wall. Your liner is sealed between two gaskets and the water should not be leaking on the wall or pool side to get behind your liner.

Dennis