General Chemical Question

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Shadow

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Aug 20, 2008
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Hello all, hope your season has been problem-free so far.

I have an 18x36 rectangle inground Vinyl pool with a Hayward DE filter and an automatic chlorinator. I also have an AquaBot Turbo that I love, love, love!!!!!

This is my second season with my pool and I was able to open it successfully. My water is clear and my levels are good I just have some general questions about adding chemicals.

What should you add to a bucket of water and mix and what do you add directly to the pool? I know shock you obviously have to pre-dilute and pour into the pool, but what about things like phUP/phDOWN, ALKup, and Stabilizer? You also should never add anything to the skimmer except DE, right?

Also, can you add multiple chemicals at once or should you wait between each chemical? How long should you wait between each?
Suppose you had low pH and low free chlorine...would you add phUP, wait a day, and then shock?

Since my water is OK, I must be doing something right but I would just like to know the rules for chemical application. Thanks!
 
Shadow said:
What should you add to a bucket of water and mix and what do you add directly to the pool? I know shock you obviously have to pre-dilute and pour into the pool, but what about things like phUP/phDOWN, ALKup, and Stabilizer?
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One rule of thumb would be to predissolve anything powdered (except CYA). Liquids can go straight in, poured slowly in front of a return jet.
Shadow said:
You also should never add anything to the skimmer except DE, right?
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Some people put CYA in a sock and leave that in the skimmer; you want the pump running 24x7 until it dissolves in that case.
Shadow said:
Also, can you add multiple chemicals at once or should you wait between each chemical? How long should you wait between each?
Suppose you had low pH and low free chlorine...would you add phUP, wait a day, and then shock?
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I only do bleach and occasionally acid, offhand don't remember what's recommended... I usually wait about 5 minutes on days when I'm adding both bleach and acid (probably I'm supposed to wait longer :whip: ).
--paulr
 
Welcome to TFP. :wave:

This article explains the various chemicals - their grocery store equivalents and how to add them.

"My levels are good" - your idea of good and our idea of good might be different. :wink:

You should not add multiple chems at once, always wait at least an hour between additions, the only exception being CYA in a sock, you can keep the sock in the skimmer, while pouring bleach in front of the return, for example. As a general rule keeping everything except DE out of the skimmer is a good idea, but some make exceptions to the rule and report no ill effects. I would never keep tabs in the skimmer, and if putting CYA in the skimmer you must keep the pump running while it dissolves and for a good 24-48 hours after.

If I had Low PH and Low FC - I guess it would depend on what my TA was. But I would adjust the PH first if necessary, taking the TA into account, and then I would wait a couple hours and increase the chlorine. Low FC does not = shocking required. I haven't shocked my pool (except for going on vacation or to close it) in 2 summers.

Hope this helps. :goodjob:
 
Thank you for your advice. I always believed that Low FC meant you HAD to shock. What's the best way to get a constant 1-3 FC, then?

By good, I meant the test strips tell me I'm within range, but I think I should definitely get my water checked at a pool store.

I'm considering buying onto those AquaCheck Digital Testers that give you exact numbers instead of color coding.
 
Shadow said:
Thank you for your advice. I always believed that Low FC meant you HAD to shock. What's the best way to get a constant 1-3 FC, then?

By good, I meant the test strips tell me I'm within range, but I think I should definitely get my water checked at a pool store.

I'm considering buying onto those AquaCheck Digital Testers that give you exact numbers instead of color coding.
Click to expand...

Get a TF100 and use the Pool Calculator. Until then, get the water tested at the pool stealer, just don't buy anything from them yet. :wink: Strips are notoriusly inaccurate, and unfortunately the pool stealers aren't much better. Back in the day my strips said "ok" for CYA and in reality it was over 100, from the overuse of trichlor.

The Phrase "1-3 FC" that is repeated dutifully by pool stores and industry reps is ridiculous - it doesn't factor in CYA. Your FC level is dictated by your CYA level. So if your CYA level is 70, your FC levels should be 5-8. If someone with CYA of 70 ran their pool with 1-3 FC they'd have algae for sure.

One thing you should know is the test kits we recommend, include a drop test for FC that does not "match colors" on a comparator - it's counting drops noting color change. Its simple and easy to use and much more accurate than any test available. That's why we're so big on it 'round here. :goodjob:
 
Shadow said:
Thank you for your advice. I always believed that Low FC meant you HAD to shock. What's the best way to get a constant 1-3 FC, then?
By good, I meant the test strips tell me I'm within range, but I think I should definitely get my water checked at a pool store.
I'm considering buying onto those AquaCheck Digital Testers that give you exact numbers instead of color coding.
Click to expand...
If you are looking at a FC of 1-3 you will get algae. Check out the Chlorine/CYA charts in pool shcool: http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-school/chlorine_cya_chart_shock
If the CYA is 40 then your FC should be close to 5, with a shock value of 16.

Strips will never cut it when it comes to measuring. Check the forums, but I wouldn't trust the electronic meter either.
I started that way and was burned (green water, YUK) when the strips said that everything was fine. For me, it's nothing but drop test.
 
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