Polaris 280 life span?

[DrRx2005]

We have the Polaris 280 cleaner with booster pump. We've lived in the house 10 years now and it was already installed when we moved in.
I've replaced various parts on the cleaner and hose to keep it working...
Considered completely replacing it by next season since the plastic housing is cracking on it and the cost of a rebuild kit isn't that much different than a brand new one.

This summer, I noticed the booster pump is dripping water underneath the propeller housing and at the point where the propeller mounts to the motor.

With the age of the pump and cleaner, would it be worth it to open the pump and replace seals, etc. and replace the cleaner itself in another season or so or get a better deal buying both the cleaner and pump combo?

Thanks

 

[mikemass]

With the age of the pump and cleaner, would it be worth it to open the pump and replace seals, etc. and replace the cleaner itself in another season or so or get a better deal buying both the cleaner and pump combo?

because of this comment:

cost of a rebuild kit isn't that much different than a brand new one.

you would be better off just buying a new cleaner. As for the pump, unless the motor is shot, it would be more cost effective to replace the seals. the leak you are describing between the housing and the motor is usually an easy fix with a new seal kit.

 

[nlindelldc]

I know that it may not be cost effective, but you could skip fixing both of them by buying a self-contained robot. Just a thought if you haven't looked into them. I love my Dolphin

 

[mikemass]

Big fan of my Dolphin as well. As a matter of fact, my Polaris 280 has been in retirement since the Dolphin has come out of the bullpen.

 

[DrRx2005]

How does the Dolphin do on a pebble finish that isn't smooth and what would you do about the plumbing that was running to the Polaris booster pump and return line? Would you just cut off the lines and cap it?
The return line, would it be risk of freezing in winter and busting under ground? I could cap it off at the point it goes back under ground, but the water would still enter from the pool side back down to the capped off line (below water level).

And, how do they do without the walls being flat/straight? My pool is sort of a kidney shaped pool with curved sides all around.

 

[JohnInTX]

A factory rebuild kit for the 280 is maybe $240 - that makes it like new, and a GoKit for the pump (all new seals) is maybe $20. If the pump is otherwise OK, that may be an option that would restore the cleaner to the original condition. As long as the pump is not heavily corroded from the leakage, it is a relatively easy thing to replace the shaft seals. But if the leakage has gone on for a long time, the shaft of the motor itself may be corroded which makes a good seal problematic. Pull it apart and see.

A new motor for the pump runs about $180. The whole pump is about $240. I just did a new one for a friend which is why I'm thinking that way. Compare all of that to the cost of a new system then go with what seems best.
Just my .02

 

[ned8377]

Nothing beats the 280 on a timer. Set it and forget it.

 

[DrRx2005]

Yeah, I talked to the local pool store that sells both pressure cleaners and robots (dolphin and Polaris robots). They recommend pressure cleaners on all new construction simply due to the fact that they are relatively maintenance free and small parts are easily replaced if necessary, whereas any repairs or replacements on a robot is very expensive and not just small parts. Plus being heavy for pulling into and out of the pool.

Yeah, the pump itself was a total loss, so corroded I twisted the head right off a bolt and powdery (salt??) substance on the outside front and bottom and when I opened the electric connection box was corroded back in there too. Don't see how it was still running. The shaft connecting to the impeller was quite corroded as well. It was an experience to say the least, learned that there is no water cut off to keep the water from coming back through the returns before the connection to the Polaris pump. I used a rope to tie the front housing to the impeller up to the filter plumbing to keep the end of the hose above water level. Don't know if there's a way to fix that...the return going back to the pool is all fittings (elbow, then T connector for the Polaris pump) which goes almost all the way to the dirt. I might have a half inch of free pipe to do anything to make a change on it, but then if I cut it, I'd have to find a PVC cement for wet connections and my local har