Losing water thru waste port

[Yankneck]

WELL HECK, I woke up this morning & I had bubbles being pumped into the pool. Water level had fallen overnight. Thankfully, it hadn't gone far enough to have NO water going thru it. Filter was losing water thru the backwash port. I had had several instances where this wanted to happen but turning the handle again & resetting it into filter position & it stopped. I had thought it had stopped last night, apparently I was wrong. I ordered a new spider gasket this AM, it should be here Friday. Is there anything else I should look at as a cause of this? Anything I should be super conscious of in replacing the spider gasket? Any special sealants or anything I will need?

 

[Yankneck]

In looking thru YouTube video's. They say some say some spider gaskets require a lock tight type super glue & some don't. How will I know if mine does or not?

 

[Scoop]

I think it depends on the valve model as to whether glue is required (or recommended by the manufacturer).

For example, I have the Pentair 261152 Multiport Valve. The Spider Gasket is located in the base assembly of my valve (not on the top assembly that can be easily removed).

I replaced my Spider Gasket (1st time replacing this gasket) a few months ago. The original factory-installed Gasket was completely glued in. It appeared that glue was applied throughout the Gasket Channel.

After reading threads at this forum and elsewhere around the 'net, and asking my local pool guy about this, I used the "spot" glue method, applying several spots of glue within the Gasket Channel.

There are several adhesives that will work with Spider Gaskets but I used this one : Permatex® Blue RTV Gasket Maker 80022 .

I replaced the Gasket using that method and adhesive last December. So far, my valve is working ok.

 

[PAGirl]

When you receive and install the new one, be sure to always turn the handle the same direction to change your filter positions. This will help keep the gasket in good condition.

 

[Yankneck]

When you receive and install the new one, be sure to always turn the handle the same direction to change your filter positions. This will help keep the gasket in good condition.

Yes, I have learned that. I bought the pump & filter used before I knew to ask which direction they had been turning it. I've been going clockwise & my boy knows to do the same. From what I've been able to gather from looking for parts & such this pump is circa 2003ish. So, maybe was just time.

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[Yankneck]

I think it depends on the valve model as to whether glue is required (or recommended by the manufacturer).

For example, I have the Pentair 261152 Multiport Valve. The Spider Gasket is located in the base assembly of my valve (not on the top assembly that can be easily removed).

I replaced my Spider Gasket (1st time replacing this gasket) a few months ago. The original factory-installed Gasket was completely glued in. It appeared that glue was applied throughout the Gasket Channel.

After reading threads at this forum and elsewhere around the 'net, and asking my local pool guy about this, I used the "spot" glue method, applying several spots of glue within the Gasket Channel.

There are several adhesives that will work with Spider Gaskets but I used this one : Permatex® Blue RTV Gasket Maker 80022 .

I replaced the Gasket using that method and adhesive last December. So far, my valve is working ok.

Thank you for the advice

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[Yankneck]

Any suggestions on how to get the old gasket to release? This thing is glued in like it's protecting Fort Knox. It's attached to the part that lifts out, not down inside.

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[Scoop]

I have the valve model where the Gasket is located in the lower valve body but I used a small Utility Knife to remove the old Gasket by first separating the old Gasket material from the channel sidewalls. Once that was done, it was easier for me to remove the remaining Gasket material from the channel.

I tried to be as careful as I could not to damage the Gasket channel during removal of the Gasket but I was unable to avoid scarring small areas of the channel.

However, when I was removing the originally glued-in Gasket for the 1st time last Dec, my pool maint guy said that it's almost impossible to avoid scarring the channel to a small degree and it usually doesn't cause any gasket leakby issues in Multiport Valves.

The main goal is to remove as much of the old Gasket material as possible, focusing on removing the Gasket material that resides on the bottom of the Gasket channel.

That's how I proceeded and my Multiport Valve is working ok without any leakby issues.

 

[Yankneck]

That's how I'm proceeding, didn't really see any other way. Was just hoping someone here had ran across an easier/faster/safer method. Wish me luck

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[PAGirl]

Good luck!

 

[Yankneck]

OK, it's done. 3 hours trying to get old gasket out, several cuts on my hand lol. New on pressed in, UBER tight fitting while pressing it in. I was trying to make sure it fit then was going to remove & put the glue in BUT my gosh that's a TIGHT fit. So, instead of chancing messing the new gasket up, I just left it. I couldn't even see any damage other than one section of the gasket was black instead of white like the rest of the gasket. Got everything replaced & I don't see anything coming out the waste port. I'll just keep an eye on it. I did put new silicone stuff on both the spider gasket & the O-Ring gasket.

 

[Yankneck]

OK, I seem to be leaking out the waste port again. When I lift the handle it feels like it does 1/2 way before it actually engages. Would this be a cause?

 

[Scoop]

This thread may help.

The problem may be a damaged or weak Spring. Here's a link to an online pool parts store that I frequently use:

Sunplay.com Valve Spring Pentair 271161

Regarding the Handle question, it's normal (for Pentair valves, not sure of other brands) for the Handle to have some 'play'/looseness when you're lifting it prior to rotating the valve to another position. However, a lot of slack in the Handle can indicate a broken or weak Spring which can be the source of leakby issues.

The Spring is what keeps the Diffuser compressed on the Spider Gasket, providing the seal and preventing leakby issues. It could also be that your have a worn Diffuser Shaft O-Ring which is preventing the Diffuser from seating completely against the Spider Gasket.

I'd disassemble the "Top Assembly" (assuming that you have a Pentair brand valve or similar) and inspect the various parts on the assembly. The 1st thread link may provide assistance with the parts layout and methods of disassembling the Top Assembly.

I bought a spare Top Assembly for my Pentair Multiport Valve so that I have a fast plug-play replacement in case of issues. Then I can rebuild the original Top Assembly when I have the time.

 

[duraleigh]

I think You can buy a kit to "rebuild" that handle assembly. I would suggest you call INYO pools......they are pretty good at having replacement parts in stock.

I don't think anyone has mentioned to turn the pump off anytime you switch multiport positions.....that's important.

 

[Yankneck]

Totally turn off pump EVERY time I move the handle. http://waterwayparts.com/ is where I am getting parts for this as that is the manufacturer of the pump & filter. This the multi port valve with everything including the spider gasket already attached for almost $90. I am seriously considering going to Hayward EC40AC Perflex Extended-Cycle D.E. Pool Filter Partially due to not having to backwash. I know it would mean re-plumbing, not that big of a concern I don't believe. My most confusing question at this point of considering this change is if I would also NEED this. Would my single speed 3/4 HP pump be sufficient? I am thinking it is. I think I found somewhere that indicated it pushed approx. 38 GPM. Somewhere in that pallpark at least Thoughts? Possible issues?