Which Chlorine to use?

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luckyman_apd

luckyman_apd

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May 26, 2009
46
Hello,
I am new to TFP, and new to pool ownership. My info is listed in my signature. A friend of mine who helped me clean up my filter and install my new pump when we got a new liner installed this year, has told me to use 3" tabs in the skimmer and shock once a week. My LPS said NOT to use pucks in the skimmer, and tried to sell me a floater. The paper work for my new liner say DON'T use a floater as it can bleach the liner where it sits. After reading Pool School (and many other websites), I really don't want to to use Trichlor or Dichlor at all. It seems counter productive to use a sanitizer that will eventually lead to having to drain half or all of the water just to start over again (as well as costs me money in water and quite frankly, seems a waste of water). I called my uncle who has owned a liner pool for over 20 years. His advice was to use granular chlorine (calcium hypochlorite). He said if you use between 12 oz to 16 oz (depending on water tests) every other day, and use around 2 lbs to shock every three weeks (or after heavy rain or a lots of swimmers) I should be fine. After reading many sites about the advantages and disadvantages of each type of chlorine, I don't really want to use liquid bleach, and I don't want to put something that will build up continually until I have to replace the water. My real question is does anyone else use this method? I don't mind the work of adding it every other day (10 minutes max is really not that much work!). He also recommended that I get in inline chlorinator for the pucks for times I may have to be away for more than a few days at a time. This way I have a backup system so I don't return to a green pool. (I have one coming in the mail already as I didn't want to use the skimmer or the floater before I read about CYA) I have added 6 pounds of CYA as the pool store recommended after I filled it with water for the first time. I need to get a better testing kit, as my strips only test FC, PH, and TA. All three have been "normal" so far this week.

Pool School has really helped me understand water chemistry and what each item does to the water as far as FC and CC. I am just looking for a good answer as to what I should use. I have been told by other pool owners not to worry about CYA, that draining at the end of the year and backflushing will clear it out enough each year. I am skeptical of that and am not comfortable with the idea of having to drain and fill again.
 
The thing is, every kind of chlorine OTHER than liquid chlorine/bleach will add something to your water that eventually will be a problem.

For every 10 ppm FC added by Trichlor, you get 6 ppm CYA.
For every 10 ppm FC added by Dichlor, you get 9 ppm CYA.
For every 10 ppm FC added by Cal-hypo, you get 7 ppm CH.

(I've used all of these. Now I use bleach.)

If your fill water is particularly low in calcium, then you can get away with cal-hypo for a long time. Eventually even that will be a problem, though.

Really, the BBB method doesn't take all that much time either. It's true you end up lugging around jugs of bleach instead of convenient little packets of powder, but if you stay on top of what's happening in your pool, it doesn't take any more time than other forms of chlorine.
--paulr
 
Also, with Cal-Hypo, it doesn't dissolve really well so you need to pre-dissolve it in a bucket of water before adding it to the pool. Otherwise, some of it can end up sitting on your liner which isn't good. If you pour bleach or chlorinating liquid over a return flow at the deep end, it usually mixes quite well. Worst case, one can lightly brush the side and bottom of the pool to be safe.
 
I see a SWG in your future.... :goodjob:

Understand that many of us have been there and done that (using trichlor, ca/li/hypochlorite...magic mystery chemicals...you name it)...to the detriment of our pool water chemistry and pocketbook...
 
SWG.....LOL. I would love one, but can't afford it now. Not after the aluminum fence around the pool, the liner, and the pump! I didn't think Calcium was a real problem for vinyl pools. Obviously, I don't want it to build up too high, but isn't it easier to get Calcium out of the water easier than CYA?

My wife's cousin has a SWG and he thinks it's the greatest thing ever. Someday, perhaps, but today is not that day!
 
Welcome to TFP! :wave:

The key to any form of proper sanitation is proper testing. So invest it one of the recommended kits.

Any form of chlorine, except lithium hypo (expensive) and bleach a.k.a. liquid chlorine, add unwanted additives to your pool, and require eventual water replacement to keep the water balanced. This includes Cal-Hypo. Calcium levels can be monitored and provided PH doesn't go above 7.8 it isn't going to be as much of a problem as say, too high CYA. But the method for lowering CYA and Calcium is the same - water replacement.

The key to keeping your water balanced is frequent testing, and adjusting if necessary. There is no magic bullet that allows the homeowner to walk away and ignore the pool - it won't take care of itself.

You can use your inline chlorinator for vacations, provided you keep your CYA level in check (water replacement if necessary) - just remember that the higher the CYA the higher the FC needs to be. Refer to the chart. Also remember that trichlor lowers PH, so that needs monitoring too.

It will take a while using cal-hypo for it to build up and be a potential problem. But like I said, even with high CH levels, provided the PH is monitored, it can be dealt with.

We like BBB because of it's simplicity and cost effectiveness. What is it about bleach that has you weary?

Regardless of what form of chlorine you choose, order a TF100 or a K-2006. :wink:
 
I don't like the idea of pouring it in and carrying it around. I am a little clumsy at times, and can see myself spilling it on my clothes and bleaching them from time to time. I know myself that I will be too lazy to go upstairs and change into junk clothes before adding it every time. Correct me if I am wrong, but doesn't it lose it's strength if it is stored for too long? I don't have a garage, only a shed, so a cool place is not really an option for me. A hot shed in the summer is where I would have to store it. I also like to buy in bulk as it brings costs down, and it just seems easier to store 25 pounds of granular containers. I'm not looking for a magic bullet ( well maybe a SWG ) just a solution that poses the fewest long term problems. I'm sure I need to add chlorine today, as it rained all day yesterday and more is predicted today. I'll be headed to The Pool Store (yes, that's actually the name of the place!) to pick up some.
 
Ah yes, I understand.

Bleach maintains its strength a bit longer than 10-12.5% chlorine which for some reason degrades more rapidly, but we're talking months. I buy a jug or two of bleach every week or 2 when I'm at Wal-mart so storage isn't as much of an issue for my small pool. I stock up sometimes if I find a good deal, but I have a nice cool storage area in my laundry room. I only buy enough that would get used up in 2 months.

As long as you understand the issues, you can manage these situations through proper testing and adjustments. Good luck!
 

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This forum is great. IF I decide to use liquid, you recommend just regular household bleach huh? I guess I can check BJ's to see how big or small they sell it, and the price comparison to the Cal Hypo. I'm sure this is posted somewhere, but how much actual bleach do I add? and how often? (obviously time and testing will give me the answers, but a starting guide would be good). It can't hurt to try, only help.
 
luckyman_apd said:
I'm sure this is posted somewhere, but how much actual bleach do I add? and how often?
Click to expand...
The Pool Calculator will help you figure out how much to add. Tell it your gallons, current and target FC and what kind of chlorine you're using (e.g. 6% bleach), and it'll tell you how much. Same for any other parameter (except temperature).
--paulr
 
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