SWG High Salt/Amps

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Aquamar555

Active member
Jun 12, 2016
43
Augusta, GA
Pool Size
21000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Hello All,
Getting my pool online after purchasing a house with it green, and equipment not working. Current readings as of this AM (tested with the good test kit by me) were:.
FC9.5 ...CC 0... CYA 53 (added 3 lbs yesterday when it was at 42, this reading is probably 2 days shy of the actual... I hear it takes time to get an accurate reading)...pH 7.4
Salt 900 (expected b/c we were not running it as a SWG pool... although that is the eventual goal)...

We SLAMed the pool, got it clean and sparkly, and now are trying to get the SWG up and running. The original cell from 2003 was still there. Bought a Hayward T-15 replacement, installed it, the No Cell Power error remained. We removed the circuit cover, it looked like the fuse was not good. Replaced the fuse. Now the reading is High Salt/Amps, which we know is not correct because we don't have salt yet in the pool.

Questions:
1. Should we go ahead and add salt, possibly is this why the amps are too high (trying to run a SWG on low salt?). If so, why didn't it give a low salt reading?
2. If this is the same problem as the other posts with the K1 circuit, and should we try to find out if that works?

Again, i don't want to add salt if there is an electrical problem, because I can keep running the pool as a non-SWG if this is going to be an expensive fix....
 
Two things to check. The older SWG you have may not work with the new cell. You can buy a replacement board on Amazon for 185. Easy to install, just make sure all the wires go back as they were on the original board.

Or you may have the " current limiter" issue. Do a search on the board for that if you are handy, you can replace the current limiter on the control board. Requires some soldering I've done it several times .

My original system was from 2004 and required the board upgrade to work with newer cells, but is working great now.
 
Thanks for the tip about the current limiter. it does appear to be an issue with the control board that we have after reading, but I hope that isn't the problem. It seems too complex to do on our own?!. For the replacement board, I thought they don't make these Aqualogic boards anymore? I will do some digging online.

Update, my husband found that the K1 site on the board needed to be soudered, did that, it now is functioning (sort of), currently reads Low salt, and has our salt at 2800. We have 1 bag of salt left (we added 9, 40-lb bags) to add for our size pool. Our FC dropped suddenly overnight, not sure why, at 7:30p was at 2, added 2 jugs, then this AM before sunrise was 0. At higher salt concentrations is CYA less effective? And, since our SWG isn't working, I assume that I should be keeping our pool FC between 5-9 with bleach based on our CYA level until the SWG can have a chance to turn on? I just tried getting the SWG going again and even at 2800ppm it says Low Salt...

pH is still at 7.5
CYA is 53
TA 85
 
I wanted to post a final update; it seems people don't post their resolutions! Got the salt level up to 3200, turned it on last night and let it run last night. It ran! Amps were a bit high at 6.9 but it was running. Wow! FC went up 4ppm overnight. CYA has landed at 50... It seems I should add more to get it to 70?

tphaggerty, is this the board replacement you were referring to: Amazon.com: Hayward GLX-PCB-MAIN Replacement Main PCB Printed Circuit Board for Hayward Goldline AquaLogic and AquaPlus Automation Systems: Patio, Lawn Garden

i'm sure at some point the board will fail, so preparing in advance is always a good thing...Thank you for recommendations
 
Super, thanks so much! Yeah, as long as there is a YouTube video for the current limiter change, that makes all the difference...
 
tphaggerty said:
No, that board is for a system controller. This one is for the SWG.

Amazon.com: Hayward GLX-PCB-RITE Replacement Main PCB Printed Circuit Board for Hayward Goldline AquaRite Salt Chlorination Systems: Hayward Pool Products: Patio, Lawn Garden

Still $185

Changing out the current limiter really isn't hard. Done it several times myself - admittedly a few due to my bad soldering.
Click to expand...
The AquaLogic uses part number GLX-PCB-MAIN. It does not use part GLX-PCB-RITE. There is no current limiter (thermistor) on the GLX-PCB-MAIN.
 
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