electric heat pump for 75,000 gallons ?

Jun 16, 2016
573
Quogue new york
I was doing the math to see how much water is in my pool. 30x60 with two French ends and a siting spa. 3 ft deep with 10 ft. Deep end. I came up with 75,000 water. Is my pentair 140,000 heat pump going to get the job done? Keeping water temp at 84 with air temp at 75 to 85 deg?
 
I would say there is not a chance. Most 400,000 btu heaters struggle to keep up with a 30k pool.

Perhaps if you kept it covered for a week and ran the heat pump 24/7 but iot would quickly drop once you uncovered the pool.
 
Your post in this thread...Expected more from a 110,000 BTU heat pump? Is this normal? indicates you have already had some experience. Why are you asking now?

I would say there is not a chance. Most 400,000 btu heaters struggle to keep up with a 30k pool.

Perhaps if you kept it covered for a week and ran the heat pump 24/7 but it would quickly drop once you uncovered the pool.
 
This is my first heat pump. When we got this house 3 months ago. I was thinking 32,000 gall. Now that I'm in the pool and find out the deep end is 10 ft. The pool does get sun all day. The temp goes up to 81 - 82 deg. Without the heater. When I put the heater on at night to keep it at 82, no problem. When it gets 50 to 60 outside the heater will be on over time. Am I about right with 75,000 of water?
 
It depends on a lot of things like shape, size of the diving hopper, slopes, stairs and so on.

Here's a way you can test to find out a still rough estimate, but potentially a bit closer:
Buy chlorinating liquid
- 8.25% bleach from a high volume store where bleach is stored indoors, with a manufacture date around 16140 to 16170
- 3 jugs of 121 oz or 128 oz unscented plain bleach (not splashless)
Run pump(s) on high for 60 minutes leading up to a time in the evening when the sun is off the pool
Test FC using the 25 ml sample size where one drop = 0.2 PPM FC
Add the bleach
Keep the pump running for another hour
Test FC again using the 25 ml sample size
If your pool is 75,000 gallons, the FC rise should be about 3.2 for 121 oz jugs or 3.4 for 128 oz jugs

Or you can track your use of PoolMath, and record predicted vs. actual results for all chemical additions. If you're undershooting and overshooting equally, you have the volume about right. If you're undershooting more of the time, then raise your pool volume estimate in PoolMath, or vice versa.

There's a very accurate way to do it with TA, found here: A Chemical Way of Calculating Pool Volume
 
I just put those figures in to PoolMath and using 6 feet as the average, it comes up with 80,800 gallons!

Skippy asked "whose hose filled *that* pool?" Wow. I think that would be the biggest private pool I've read of here. What fun it must provide :)
 

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When I did that volume calculation, the first thing I thought was gas as well, and big.

Off topic, but could you add a signature and include your equipment? There's a few people here waiting to see it :) Instructions are linked from my signature in "Read before posting"
 
Today was 88 deg. The heater has not been on. Water temp is 85. I did call pentair and they said I can stack a 2 nd heater if needed. So far the heat is doing the job. A few week ago it was 50 and the heater got the water to 84 in less then 48 hours. I will close this pool in Sept. My weekly service is $70 with all the Chem. If I take over the service it's going to cost me. He puts in about 7 big round taps in each skimmer and there is 3 skimmers. Does anyone know what it will cost me ?
 
You just opened a coffee-tin sized can of worms ;)

16 weeks at $70 is $1,120. On TFPC there's no way to be accurate, but maybe $500 for 10% bleach to deliver the same amount of chlorine on a big pool like yours.

Most would put in a big SWG, which might cost around $1,200 and then about $400 every 2 to 3 years to replace the cell. This would save the lugging of 14 one-gallon jugs of 10% bleach a week. (I used 80,000 gals for estimating). You would need about a gallon of acid a week as well. I think that's around $6-8 over there.

There's plenty of evidence here about cleaner water with TFPC, but that's where the can of worms comes in. TFPC takes an entirely different approach as compared to weekly service with trichlor pucks. It really depends on how much you want sparkly and safe water, and your time and so on.

I do have one question... have you had this pool for multiple years, and if so, does it get a bit cloudy or a lot cloudy toward the end of the season? 16 weeks of 8 oz pucks should take your CYA to 140 and require around 11 ppm FC to keep it safe for swimming and algae free, so I'm just wondering how that works out up there in NY state.

This is a very interesting thread!

- - - Updated - - -

Forgot, whoops, I suppose service guy shocks it more often to keep it clear toward the end of the season, to keep it somewhat clear
 
The can of worms begins... you're putting acidic water through your heater (worst) and pump (you may want a new one anyway, or your pool guy likes charging you to replace seals, sell you a new pump, etc.)... oh man, you're going to be hearing about a lot of stuff.

You may want to read at least this one page to get some terminology so you know what people are saying Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry

and this thread adds some great stuff as well Certified Pool Operator (CPO) training -- What is not taught
 
This was a bank sale house and we took it over in March 2016 I have no clue about this pool. I did have 4 pool guys come look at this pool. It was bad. It was never service, or winteriz R. Since 2007 when the owners walk away. Trees were growing from steps and over 1 ft of debre on bottom. My pool guy said to go with pentair filter. Not sand and not DE. He had this pool clean and swim able in 2 weeks. Pump ran 24-7. When he came to wash out the two big filters, I said wash them and I'm ordering new ones. It cost me $500 in filters but it did its job. Pool was installed by someone in Brooklyn.
 

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