New pool owner, so frustrated. Filled and no chemicals. Have everything for BBB Method, but just dont know how much. Please help!
Pool Filled - Need Help
- Thread starter Bawilford
- Start date
Hi Bwliford,
Welcome to TFP.
Here is a link to recommended levels.
Pool School - Recommended Levels
You need to know who many gallons of water you have in order to use pool math. Pool Match will tell you how much of something to add. At the bottom of pool math, is a volume calculator.
http://www.troublefreepool.com/calc.html
You also need a decent test kits. The strips in your sig are not accurate. We recommend the TF100 available at TFTestkits.net
2st, add enough chlorine to get you up to 2ppm
Next, add enough Stabilizer (CYA), to get you up to 30.
Next, adjust your pH if you need to and get it within recommended range.
CH is not applicable to vinyl pools, so dont worry about that.
TA is the last thing you need to do, and it can be done over a period of time.
Welcome to TFP.
Here is a link to recommended levels.
Pool School - Recommended Levels
You need to know who many gallons of water you have in order to use pool math. Pool Match will tell you how much of something to add. At the bottom of pool math, is a volume calculator.
http://www.troublefreepool.com/calc.html
You also need a decent test kits. The strips in your sig are not accurate. We recommend the TF100 available at TFTestkits.net
2st, add enough chlorine to get you up to 2ppm
Next, add enough Stabilizer (CYA), to get you up to 30.
Next, adjust your pH if you need to and get it within recommended range.
CH is not applicable to vinyl pools, so dont worry about that.
TA is the last thing you need to do, and it can be done over a period of time.
Welcome!
I just started up my new pool a few weeks ago. The most important thing right now is get some chlorine in it right away, don't wait for your test kit. Algae can get started very quickly. Plain old household bleach from the grocery store, walmart works fine. At Walmart in the pool section you can get pool chlorinating liquid which is a little stronger and actually cheaper than the 8.25% bleach at my local store. Use pool calculator or the instructions on the bottle to get the chlorine level up to somewhere around 4, and maintain it above 2 for now. For your pool it should take about 6 oz of 10% pool chlorinating liquid for each 1. ppm you want to raise your chlorine. If you have added nothing yet, you would dump in about 24 oz to get started. If using bleach it would take slightly more. I test every evening and add enough to get to the target FC. It won't use much overnight unless something gets growing, if that happens then the algae starts consuming it as well as the sun and your use can double and more. I am adding about 24 oz each evening to treat my 14k gallon pool. My pool sets fully in the sun the entire day which consumes a bit more chlorine. My pool routine is rigorous, test each day, add chlorine, clean the skimmer basket, check the filter pressure and I run a brush over the walls and floor every other day. I doubt I spend an hour a week "working" on the pool.
You will see when you get a good test kit how much easier the dpd/fas chlorine test is. Those subtle yellow shade changes the cheap OTO kits use was very difficult for me to see, and anything over 5 ppm makes the oto kit worthless.
Also important to get your PH tested and in range. Low PH means the water is acidic and can eat on the metal parts and sting your eyes. Having too high PH is only slightly better, anything 7.2-7.8 will be good. You can raise it up with borax or soda ash, soda ash will also raise alkalinity at a higher rate if that is needed. You can also raise PH slowly over time by turning your return jet to the surface and aerating. You can buy PH up or down in the pool section, you may pay a bit more using these but a 6k gallon pool won't need much.
Your test kit is plenty good enough to get you started, don't rely much on the test strips though, they are worthless. Avoid any temptation to use the tablet or bagged shock products! These add other unwanted chemicals will quickly raise stabilizer or calcium levels. High stabilizer level will cause the pool to require much higher free chlorine levels and can make shock levels of FC impossible to achieve. It will get you in trouble before you even know it. The only way to get rid of high stabilizer levels is to drain and refill. Once you get your test kit, read and follow the directions carefully. Proper testing is crucial and will tell you exactly what the pool requires each day. I highly recommend the taylor speedstir also, it makes testing much easier and more accurate than trying to drop and swirl.
Keep the chlorine level above the minimum at all times. Do this using only chlorinating liquid or bleach. Keep PH in check and your filter clean and flowing and any problems you have will only be minor adjustments. It does not take much to do each day, but if you let it get away from you.....You will regret it. It takes lots of time, labor and money to get it back from green.
I just started up my new pool a few weeks ago. The most important thing right now is get some chlorine in it right away, don't wait for your test kit. Algae can get started very quickly. Plain old household bleach from the grocery store, walmart works fine. At Walmart in the pool section you can get pool chlorinating liquid which is a little stronger and actually cheaper than the 8.25% bleach at my local store. Use pool calculator or the instructions on the bottle to get the chlorine level up to somewhere around 4, and maintain it above 2 for now. For your pool it should take about 6 oz of 10% pool chlorinating liquid for each 1. ppm you want to raise your chlorine. If you have added nothing yet, you would dump in about 24 oz to get started. If using bleach it would take slightly more. I test every evening and add enough to get to the target FC. It won't use much overnight unless something gets growing, if that happens then the algae starts consuming it as well as the sun and your use can double and more. I am adding about 24 oz each evening to treat my 14k gallon pool. My pool sets fully in the sun the entire day which consumes a bit more chlorine. My pool routine is rigorous, test each day, add chlorine, clean the skimmer basket, check the filter pressure and I run a brush over the walls and floor every other day. I doubt I spend an hour a week "working" on the pool.
You will see when you get a good test kit how much easier the dpd/fas chlorine test is. Those subtle yellow shade changes the cheap OTO kits use was very difficult for me to see, and anything over 5 ppm makes the oto kit worthless.
Also important to get your PH tested and in range. Low PH means the water is acidic and can eat on the metal parts and sting your eyes. Having too high PH is only slightly better, anything 7.2-7.8 will be good. You can raise it up with borax or soda ash, soda ash will also raise alkalinity at a higher rate if that is needed. You can also raise PH slowly over time by turning your return jet to the surface and aerating. You can buy PH up or down in the pool section, you may pay a bit more using these but a 6k gallon pool won't need much.
Your test kit is plenty good enough to get you started, don't rely much on the test strips though, they are worthless. Avoid any temptation to use the tablet or bagged shock products! These add other unwanted chemicals will quickly raise stabilizer or calcium levels. High stabilizer level will cause the pool to require much higher free chlorine levels and can make shock levels of FC impossible to achieve. It will get you in trouble before you even know it. The only way to get rid of high stabilizer levels is to drain and refill. Once you get your test kit, read and follow the directions carefully. Proper testing is crucial and will tell you exactly what the pool requires each day. I highly recommend the taylor speedstir also, it makes testing much easier and more accurate than trying to drop and swirl.
Keep the chlorine level above the minimum at all times. Do this using only chlorinating liquid or bleach. Keep PH in check and your filter clean and flowing and any problems you have will only be minor adjustments. It does not take much to do each day, but if you let it get away from you.....You will regret it. It takes lots of time, labor and money to get it back from green.
Forgot to mention,
You will require more chlorine for heavy bather load. If you have a lot of swimmers don't be afraid to boost up your target level a bit. I keep mine slightly higher because I just never know how many friends might show up throughout the day. Your new pool will likely see lots of use right now, once the new wears off a bit usage will level out. Very important to keep it above the minimum level. A higher target range will allow more cushion as bather load and sun consume the chlorine. If you aren't sure, just run a quick test and add some chlorine if needed during swim breaks. It's completely safe to swim right after adding bleach, just pour it in slowly right in front of the return jet and give it a few minutes to circulate so there are no heavy pockets of chemical.
You will require more chlorine for heavy bather load. If you have a lot of swimmers don't be afraid to boost up your target level a bit. I keep mine slightly higher because I just never know how many friends might show up throughout the day. Your new pool will likely see lots of use right now, once the new wears off a bit usage will level out. Very important to keep it above the minimum level. A higher target range will allow more cushion as bather load and sun consume the chlorine. If you aren't sure, just run a quick test and add some chlorine if needed during swim breaks. It's completely safe to swim right after adding bleach, just pour it in slowly right in front of the return jet and give it a few minutes to circulate so there are no heavy pockets of chemical.
