New to the pool game. Inherited a 13k gallon 10 ft deep swamp.the house where we live hadn't used the pool in two seasons. Drained down halfway removed all leaves and limbs. Filled back up. Added some dichlor. Turned cloudy blue. Went out of town two weeks. Came back. Frogs tadpoles and swamp water oh my. Got all frogs out, all tadpoles. Shock shock shock for weeks. Yes pool store shock. Green water blackish dirt looking bottom. Go to pool store. Go home get sample. Bring back. 50 worth of soda ash. Take sample again. Boom! Perfect chemistry. Get this green to clean it will be ready for the 4th of July party. Cool. Up ph to 7.8 like directions say. Add dichlor shock. Check water 8 hrs later no sign of chlorine, ph at 6.2 alk is good, no cays 0. Next day lower of all chemistry. Do I try and raise the ph and then shock again? I'm at a loss. Back washed everything did what instructions said. Anyone wanna help me out before my wife and kids shoot fireworks at me for the forth?
You like swamps, I've got one, no pool knowledge
- Thread starter Ihatethispool
- Start date
Our first recommendation is to get a good testkit: Pool School - Test Kits Compared
It may seem expensive, but it will pay for itself in no time. Also, if you get one, then we can help you get a crystal-clear pool with products purchased primarily feom grocery/big box stores. Promise. If you don't get one, sorry, we can't help you.
If you chose to order the kit, you can add a half jug of bleach or liquid "shock" to the pool each day until the kit arrives.
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Oh, and welcome to the forum!!!
It may seem expensive, but it will pay for itself in no time. Also, if you get one, then we can help you get a crystal-clear pool with products purchased primarily feom grocery/big box stores. Promise. If you don't get one, sorry, we can't help you.
If you chose to order the kit, you can add a half jug of bleach or liquid "shock" to the pool each day until the kit arrives.
- - - Updated - - -
Oh, and welcome to the forum!!!
HI! We can help you fix your pool BUT it will not be in time for the 4th 
I am SO sorry. We can have it clear before the end of the swim season with your help-a good test kit like stated above. See the link in my siggy for the one that is the best bang for the buck. You will need the XL due to the swamp man living with you
Add the bleach like she said to keep it from getting worse. Let us know as soon as your test kit gets there.
Kim:cat:
I am SO sorry. We can have it clear before the end of the swim season with your help-a good test kit like stated above. See the link in my siggy for the one that is the best bang for the buck. You will need the XL due to the swamp man living with you Add the bleach like she said to keep it from getting worse. Let us know as soon as your test kit gets there.
Kim:cat:
- Jan 4, 2016
- 5,288
- Pool Size
- 44000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
Welcome to TFP! Good to have you here
What they said ^^^ is right. The TFPC system totally works, unlike the dartboard chemical sales you're experiencing. That silliness has been seen here at TFP 1000s of times.
There's some very well written and concise explanations in Pool School (buttons above). Start with the ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry.
Order the TF100 or K-2006 test kit right away. The TF100 is better configured for TFPC. You'll pay for it before summer is over in savings vs. what you're doing now.
You should definitely adjust pH to between 7.2 and 7.8 to protect your pool. You can use a HTH 6in1 kit for that, around $25 from Walmart, but that kit will seem like a waste of money once you have a proper test kit. No one can advise you how to adjust the pH without reliable numbers you've done yourself.
If you get the HTH kit for the meantime, post the numbers here as follows:
FC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
You will also need to fill out your signature. Follow the link in my signature "Read this before you post" for instructions how to do this.
Marian, Kim and mgmoore are right. Without good numbers we can't guarantee a trouble free pool. I'm a never-say-never kinda guy, and with some numbers it's possible for you to get lucky. These are the criteria you have to meet for using the pool:
1. You have to be able to clearly see the bottom. This is a safety issue and is a deal-breaker.
- we need a picture posted to get a sense of this. Take one looking down at your stairs, or with a pool brush or cleaner in the deep end
2. You have to get pH between 7.2 and 7.8 (this is the reliably measureable range within which the FC will work predictably, and is safe and comfortable for swimmers)
3. You need enough free chlorine so that the pool is safe for people. With zero CYA, that would be around 1-2 PPM FC, but you would need to test and top up possibly every hour, and the HTH test is not easy to read.
So for example, if you ran your pump and filtration 24/7, and your pool doesn't have too bad a problem (be aware that this is unlikely), and we get things corrected right away, you might get lucky.
You might be considering a pool service and their magic ways. What they will do might clear your pool, but it will take years off the life of your plaster, if that's the type of pool you have. And it can also damage your pool equipment.
What they said ^^^ is right. The TFPC system totally works, unlike the dartboard chemical sales you're experiencing. That silliness has been seen here at TFP 1000s of times.
There's some very well written and concise explanations in Pool School (buttons above). Start with the ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry.
Order the TF100 or K-2006 test kit right away. The TF100 is better configured for TFPC. You'll pay for it before summer is over in savings vs. what you're doing now.
You should definitely adjust pH to between 7.2 and 7.8 to protect your pool. You can use a HTH 6in1 kit for that, around $25 from Walmart, but that kit will seem like a waste of money once you have a proper test kit. No one can advise you how to adjust the pH without reliable numbers you've done yourself.
If you get the HTH kit for the meantime, post the numbers here as follows:
FC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
You will also need to fill out your signature. Follow the link in my signature "Read this before you post" for instructions how to do this.
Marian, Kim and mgmoore are right. Without good numbers we can't guarantee a trouble free pool. I'm a never-say-never kinda guy, and with some numbers it's possible for you to get lucky. These are the criteria you have to meet for using the pool:
1. You have to be able to clearly see the bottom. This is a safety issue and is a deal-breaker.
- we need a picture posted to get a sense of this. Take one looking down at your stairs, or with a pool brush or cleaner in the deep end
2. You have to get pH between 7.2 and 7.8 (this is the reliably measureable range within which the FC will work predictably, and is safe and comfortable for swimmers)
3. You need enough free chlorine so that the pool is safe for people. With zero CYA, that would be around 1-2 PPM FC, but you would need to test and top up possibly every hour, and the HTH test is not easy to read.
So for example, if you ran your pump and filtration 24/7, and your pool doesn't have too bad a problem (be aware that this is unlikely), and we get things corrected right away, you might get lucky.
You might be considering a pool service and their magic ways. What they will do might clear your pool, but it will take years off the life of your plaster, if that's the type of pool you have. And it can also damage your pool equipment.
Thanks guys, I'll post pics Tom. In the mean time I'll take samples to Leslie's and post as soon as I recive until I get a the correct tester kit. Leslie's really broke the bank....I'll get the signature thing too....
If you do go to Leslie's, which I encourage you not to, only look at the pH value. That's the only test most pool stores get correct. Then, don't buy anything.
I wouldn't bother going to Leslie's. Get the test ASAP, and if there is any debris left, work on getting as much out as possible.
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