Island in Colorado

Jump to latest Follow Reply
W

wyo1661

0
May 20, 2009
9
Littleton, Colorado
Reading all these posts has been very inspiring as well as helpful in the planning stages for my build. This is my first go at it but I am enjoying the steps so far. Although it is still early. My project is a corner island that will house a Bull Angus (30") 4 burner grill. The island will have (2) 24" stainless steel doors under the left and right prep surfaces. Pretty basic- no burners or fridge, etc... After reading all the posts, I still have a couple of questions however. In creating the separate compartments, how do I get the LP hose from the compartment that will house the LP tank to the one with the grill head? (cut a hole and patch/caulk around the hose?) The other question is related to stucco. Given the winter temperatures that we have in Colorado, do you see benefit in going with the wire mesh on top of the Hardi Backer? I know it has been posted as to be an unnecessary step for you guys in CA but just checking if anyone has done a stucco island in colder climates.
Thanks in advance for any info you can pass along. I appreciate it. Attached is a picture of where I am currently at with framing.
 

Attachments

  • 054- reduced.jpg
    054- reduced.jpg
    144.5 KB · Views: 1,819
wyo1661 said:
Reading all these posts has been very inspiring as well as helpful in the planning stages for my build. This is my first go at it but I am enjoying the steps so far. Although it is still early. My project is a corner island that will house a Bull Angus (30") 4 burner grill. The island will have (2) 24" stainless steel doors under the left and right prep surfaces. Pretty basic- no burners or fridge, etc... After reading all the posts, I still have a couple of questions however. In creating the separate compartments, how do I get the LP hose from the compartment that will house the LP tank to the one with the grill head? (cut a hole and patch/caulk around the hose?) The other question is related to stucco. Given the winter temperatures that we have in Colorado, do you see benefit in going with the wire mesh on top of the Hardi Backer? I know it has been posted as to be an unnecessary step for you guys in CA but just checking if anyone has done a stucco island in colder climates.
Thanks in advance for any info you can pass along. I appreciate it. Attached is a picture of where I am currently at with framing.
Click to expand...

Hey Wyo1661,

Welcome to the forums. Thanks for posting pics of you build keep them coming. As for your questions:
1. Yeah just cut a small hole for the hose to fit through from one compartment to the next. I would not make it ay bigger than needed but also would not worry about patching it tight as you may need to remove it someday. Just make sure all compartments with gas a vented at both the top and bottom.

2. While I live in Florida I am in the panhandle and we do see freezing temps in the winter down to the low 20's at night I was not concerned about the stucco freezing and popping off thus no lath. If I were in Colorado I would not use lath under the stucco for the island. I would apply it the same way that has been documented here. Concrete glue on hardie then stucco applied about 1/8" thick. I would recommend using a stucco like the Acrotex product from Acrocrete. www.acrocrete.com It is an arylic stucco and has elastic properties so it is flexible and will resist cracking. Available in about 50 colors also. I used it in my build and am very pleased with the result.

Hope this helps.
Brad
 
Thanks for the insight Dawg. Enjoyed reading your posts on your build and will certainly take your advice on the stucco. I hope to be there after this next weekend of hardi work.

Cobra- yes, the frame is now sitting on Trex feet. One of the many ideas that I pulled from this site but had not put them on yet. Thanks though. By the way, I grew up in Sac and have family in Stanford Ranch (Rocklin). Great part of California. I helped my sister & brother in law build their pool when I was a kid and her subdivision was one of the first in the area. We wanted to use some native rock for a waterfall so we drove down to the end of the street (where I think there is now a Bel Air) and pryed some out of the earth. Turned our really nice.

Thanks again guys and will post updates from time to time.
 
I live in Arvada. I built My island 4 years ago and have had no issues. I did not use lath but i did use Dryvit instead of stucco. It is a 100% acrylic product with an aggregate in it. The place that sells it is basically under the colfax bridge just east of i-25. If you want to come up and take a look you are welcome.
 
Welcome to the Forum! So far you are getting good advice from others who have posted. Make sure you vent every compartment with 2ea 20 sq in upper and lower vents. The clearance hole for the gas line does not need to be sealed because you will have good ventilation with these.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Oh...I just assumed it was granite since this area has mostly granite. The rock around my pool are also moss rock which is commonly used around pools in this area. I wish I could have gotten mine for free as my rock work cost a small fortune and it isn't all that fancy.

I don't mean to hijack your thread. Do you have any updates on your island build? Detailed shots would be quite useful for others.
 
Spent the weekend running wires for 3 outlets (2 on the back splash and one GFI in the lower left cabinet) and attaching the hardi backer. Rains came again in the late afternoon today so I could not get it completely enclosed. Guess I will see where the low spots are and if any water colllects. The patio slopes 3 inches from front to back so I have about an inch of fall from the left to the right side of the island. I used an extra Trex board to adjust and was happily surprised at how level the grill was when dropped in. Another surprise was the stainless steel doors. The are both right hinged. With this layout, I want the door on the left to be left hinged. BBQ guys did not have any listed in this size (24x17) that show as left hinged. In fact, they only have 1 door in their brand that is left hinged and its a different size. Is there a way to retro fit? I cannot tell if so. I tried simply turning it over and the pins fell out.
Anyway, I am having some anxiety about what to face it with. (stone or stucco) Any suggestions given the coloring of the stamped patio (castle stone) pattern and color?

Will try to finish off the hardi backer this week, install vents from Lowes and then work on the facing next weekend.
 

Attachments

  • 075 resize.jpg
    075 resize.jpg
    65.5 KB · Views: 1,544
  • 077 resize.jpg
    077 resize.jpg
    77.9 KB · Views: 1,546
Hello everyone from sunny southern California. I'm building a new bbq island and attaching it to a preexisting masonry bbq structure, the end result which will be a U shaped structure with different height countertops. I do have a few questions if anyone can help. Has anyone used 20 gage steel studs instead of the more common 25 gage steel studs. I'm considering using 20 gage just for more strength and rigidity even though I know the entire structure will stiffen up considerably with hardibacker board installed. Any opinions?? I checked out an island at my local home improvement store which carries the B--L brand of BBQ islands and grills. There's is built with 25 gage steel studs at 12" on center, with a sprayed on stucco finish that isn't so attractive and pleasing, especially when they spray over the vents. They did however place a hardibacker board based under the bottom steel tracks, and in areas where there was access from access doors, they placed galvanized sheet metal on top of the flat hardibacker board, I imagine for aesthetic reasons. How has everyone else been finishing the inside of their islands? Suggestions and pictures would sure be appreciated.

I'm going to be cantilevering the studs and wrapping them with hardibacker board, with corbels as necessary for aesthetics and support, and applying an overlay to the countertops to make it look like finished concrete countertops. The rest of the structure will be mission style trowled on cement/stucco to match the look of my house which is Spanish.

Any suggestions or things I need to think about besides venting, trex feet, etc ? Again, all suggestions and any pictures from your experience and knowledge would be very much appreciated. Thanks for your help.

Avi
 
avi,

Welcome to the forum :wave:

You should start a new thread for your build to keep things more compartmentalized and neater.

Everyone who uses the smaller gauge studs is worried that they are too weak until the they put the Hardibacker on and things are plenty sturdy. It will even be strong enough for a granite slab.

Cantilevered edges are done with an L bracket that is available at the HD or Lowes. I believe you can find pictures of this technique here or at Dr. Dave's website. Dr Dave sells plans for BBQ islands which many have said was an excellent resource to at least get them started even if the design wasn't exactly the same.

Good luck and please show us pictures of your build.

Kevin
 
DrDave said:
Start a new thread and I will help any way I can.
Click to expand...

Agreed, start a new thread.... BUT......

I used 25 ga. for my build, and had (9) 11 year olds dancing on my bar to what they called "music" last Fri. at my daughters B-Day party....

They had FUN!!!

They didn't fall off :mrgreen:

That's why I built it. To enjoy it!!!

It didn't break.

25 ga is fine.

Good luck. Let's see some plans/photos!!!

C-Ya!! Mike
 
Spent the day laying 4" x 4" slate tiles as the couter top and my poor math caused me to run out before getting to the backsplash. (rookie mistake) Will head back to the tile store in the AM and pick up the rest. Decided to go with the Dryvit stucco for the front, sides and back. That is next weekends task however. Thanks Arvada BBQ for the suggestion and location. The nice guys at BBQGuys.com are making me a left hinged door so that both doors open correctly. Strange how that is not a common enough request to stock them. Nevertheless, it will just cost me the shipping to get one of the original back to them and some patience while they construct the new door. Sorry no pictures tonight. Will post some pictures of the slate once it has the sealer on it.
 
Thanks for your feedback thus far...I originally posted before I had gone through the rest of the other postings...I will start a new thread...definitely makes sense...

I have sketches/layouts and hopefully will be starting next week, somehow. I'll try to post accordingly as soon as I figure out how to do it, etc.

The sides of my bbq will be typical stucco on HB board, framed in with a couple of columns of steel studs to somewhat match the architecture of my home, but my countertops will be a concrete finish, going to use a concrete overlay on a boxed in steel stud system laminated with HB board. Going to try to integrate colored glass and other aggregates and grind it down to see how it looks before staining it, etc..

Thanks again.

Avi
 
Best of luck with the build AVI. Will watch for the progress. I am enjoying mine but it is certainly taking longer than planned. We have 2 young children so free time is in short supply. We are having plenty of wet weather that seems to be on the weekends only. Nevertheless, attached are some pictures as of this evening. I was able to get most of the tile on. Would have gotten it all but my tile saw blade became too dull to even cut the slate for the top of the back splash. I have not wiped down the tiles so they appear dusty compared to their clean color. I will be applying the lacquer and will try to have grouted/sealed by next weekend. If all goes well, stucco will be the following week.
 

Attachments

  • 081.jpg
    081.jpg
    119.2 KB · Views: 1,329
  • 082.jpg
    082.jpg
    119.3 KB · Views: 1,330
  • 083.jpg
    083.jpg
    115.9 KB · Views: 1,330

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply