Pentair IntellipH?

Ocgasman

0
Bronze Supporter
Jun 10, 2015
150
Orange County, CA
I have a IC40 and get tons of aeration from a negative edge and water features. I'm having to add acid pretty regularly and I would like to automate the acid addition. I think the IntellipH would suit me perfectly as I don't have a huge pool and 2 oz/hour should be plenty for my needs. I have everything connected to Intellitouch with Screenlogic2 and reading the IntellipH manual, it seems pretty easy to diy. Any issues from current owners and if the installation was difficult at all? Thanks in advance.
 
Installation is very easy. All of the electronics are plug and play. The biggest challenge will be how you will mount the injector in the plumbing. I used a 2" tee reduduced to 1/2" threads just prior to the SWG.

If you don't have room for a tee you could just drill and tap a hole in the plumbing just prior to the SWG (and after the heater).

There is no control of the IPH through Screenlogic or your IntelliTouch panel though... Not that you'd really need it anyway.

I'm happy with my IPH but it does have a few safety features that are a little questionable and frustrating at times.
 
I self installed the IpH a couple of days ago. The most difficult part was finding a place to mount the canister since I didn't have any more room left on my pad. I got a cement stepping stone and screwed in the canister onto that. But my stupid Dewalt cordless drill kept running out of battery and my extra battery basically wouldn't hold a charge, grrr. A corded drill woulda been better, but I don't have a corded drill. I used the included saddle clamp and drilled in a 1/2" hole before my SWG and after the heater. After mounting the canister and controller, basically plug and play and thankfully everything worked right from the start. I totally understand that there needs to be regular maintenance for the pump head tube and injection check valve. But searching online here, it seems that Pentair changed the check valve from the all black Stenner used in the past. I think it must be another Stenner check valve but unsure what the equivalent Stenner valve is. Anyway, I want to keep an extra check valve and pump head tube around in case of failure and most likely will just change the check valve half yearly or earlier. Yearly for the pump tube per the manual.

I'm still playing with the settings but after one day, the IpH has kept my pH at 7.6. I'm aiming for 7.6-7-7. My plaster pool with a SWG plus negative edge plus laminars plus high fill TA was making me add acid every 2-3 days even with TA at 70 and borates at 50. Adding acid by hand every couple of days wasn't difficult but just wanted a way to help automate everything, as at this point, acid was the only think I was adding consistently. Plus, I wasn't sure who/how acid would be added when I'm on vacation for over a week. If the IPH keeps my pH in check and all I have to do is add acid occasionally to the canister and do some interval maintenance on the IPH, then I would call it an immense success and exactly what I was after. Of course, if it starts acting weird and I get acid leaks everywhere, then maybe not so much success. Only time will tell.

I wish Screenlogic was able to control the IpH, and also wish it came with a pH probe like the Intellichem, but I wasn't going to use the chlorine injector and orb on the Intellichem. Thought it was a waste to spend the extra money on Intellichem for half the function and quite frankly, I'm hoping that once I get the IpH dialed in, I won't have to make much adjustments. Anyway, I'm happy with it so far after 2 days :), I will report back after a couple of weeks.
 
:goodjob:

As some have said around here - "PICTURES!! Or it didn't happen!!"

I think you were wise to skip the IChem. ORP is flaky at best (or you have to keep the CYA so low that your SWG basically runs all day long) and your pool water pH just isn't going to change that fast as to necessitate a closed-loop feedback with a pH probe. Add the additional maintenance, calibration and replacement costs for the probe and it's just not worth it in my estimation.

I only add acid to my pool every 10 days or so and my pH tends to hang at 7.7 for long periods of time so I'm not likely to get an IPh, but it's nice to see some folks reap the benefits of them.
 
I have a IC40 and get tons of aeration from a negative edge and water features. I'm having to add acid pretty regularly and I would like to automate the acid addition. I think the IntellipH would suit me perfectly as I don't have a huge pool and 2 oz/hour should be plenty for my needs. I have everything connected to Intellitouch with Screenlogic2 and reading the IntellipH manual, it seems pretty easy to diy. Any issues from current owners and if the installation was difficult at all? Thanks in advance.

I installed a Pentair IntellipH 2 years ago and it was a simple DIY project-if you've worked with PVC pipe before. Be certain to place the injector BEFORE the IC40 inlet (per the instructions) and you'll be fine. Here's the "before and after" pics from my install. (The blue circle in the first pic is where I cut the PVC to install the injector and have at least 12" of pipe before the IC40.)

photo 1-1.jpg IC40Ext.jpg
 
@tucsontico,

Nice setup!! Great job using a reducer-tee for the injection point; it looks a lot more professional than a saddle-clamp (and probably a lot easier to deal with too).

Question - have you had any motor replacements?

Since Pentair mounts the motor right above the acid tank, I've always wondered about fumes and corrosion.
 

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As requested, some pool pics:

The outdoor shower hides the pool equipment. That is the white wall you see in the equipment pad pic. The negative edge wall (1x1 glass tile) flows over into a basin where the main suction is. It's lit up at night by an LED light strip hidden in the front of the river rock and looks amazing with the firepit lit. The spa is negative edge also but drains into the pool through plumbing but adds to aeration. The laminars are only on when kids are in the pool or at night when guests are chilling by the firepit cuz they look cool at night. I turned them on for pic purposes only. The robot is doing it's job right now.
 

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Holy negative edges and water features, Batman!!! Yeah, you need to upgrade to the IntelliPH with XL option!!!

Nice setup, though.
 
@tucsontico,

Nice setup!! Great job using a reducer-tee for the injection point; it looks a lot more professional than a saddle-clamp (and probably a lot easier to deal with too).

Question - have you had any motor replacements?

Since Pentair mounts the motor right above the acid tank, I've always wondered about fumes and corrosion.

Never replaced the motor but I did have an issue with the pump head corroding. The pump head would last one season, at best. The replacement cost was about $35-40. However, Pentair has since (post Aug 2014) come out with a better pump head with replaceable peristaltic tubing (looks like a Stenner). I got my local Pentair guy to order that newer IntellipH version for me and trade it out for below his cost. The newer pump head is much more robust and better sealed against the MA fumes/liquid. Only been running for 6 months, but it looks almost new!
:cool:
 
Thanks for the kind words, fellas. The build took a long time as we did some major structural changes to the pool AFTER the gunite went in, doh! I was gonna start a build thread but got lazy. I might just do it anyway but truncated to one post with lots of pics.

Yeah, I'll eventually cut the pipes to do the reducer T but can't bring myself to do it anytime soon, cuz adding the IntellipH system inflamed the herniated disks in my neck and I need a break.

Oh, and I forgot the requisite sparking pool shot, thanks to TFP, with bonus s300i scrubbing the water line.
 

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I'm a tee guy myself but I like the drill and tap method much better...Way cleaner look and puts the injector in the flow stream

A reducer T will put the injector directly in the water flow. Especially if you use the Stenner (model # UCDBINJ Injection Check Valve) injector as it has a longer stem to fit inside the PVC pipe. My concern over the drill & tap method is potential weakening of the PVC. Because Schedule 40 PVC doesn't have any UV inhibitors built into it, the PVC will get brittle over time (unless it is covered or painted) and any holes drilled through the wall will be the point of failure-especially under vibration and pressure. Using a reducer T and painting the PVC (required by code in Tucson, AZ) solves those issues.

Just sayin' :D
 
My plumbing has never seen the light of day and I'd only drill through a coupler and pipe so the thickness is doubled. Even if it wasn't, the miniscule pressure the pipe is exposed to would not be an issue...a far better option than a saddle clamp (which I've yet to hear of any issues) but would require some more than basic tools and knowledge which probably the reason Pentair and the like don't mention it as a method of installation.
 
My plumbing has never seen the light of day and I'd only drill through a coupler and pipe so the thickness is doubled. Even if it wasn't, the miniscule pressure the pipe is exposed to would not be an issue...a far better option than a saddle clamp (which I've yet to hear of any issues) but would require some more than basic tools and knowledge which probably the reason Pentair and the like don't mention it as a method of installation.

Agree that it's a far better option than the saddle clamp! Lucky your pool equipment is under cover. Don't have that luxury here in Tucson-by-the-sea! :goodjob:
 

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