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Thread: Opened yesterday, when should I start testing?

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    Gooserider's Avatar
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    Opened yesterday, when should I start testing?

    I started up the pool yesterday after sitting all winter - Not sure what the numbers were when I closed, but the test strips I was using seemed to say things were mostly OK.

    I used an "In-The-Swim" winterizing kit when I closed, except that I have never been able to see much sense in putting chemicals in, then pumping them out on the ground so I always pump the pool down, THEN add the chemicals by sprinkling them over the surface as much as I can...

    I pumped down about 2' when closing, to just below the returns, stopped up all the plumbing after blowing it out with a shop-vac and covered it with a Meyco(sp?) safety cover. Even though it's an in-ground pool and they aren't "needed", I string several partly inflated air pillows along the length of the pool, and toss in a large collection of all my empty chemical bottles from the past several years. This is not so much to prevent freeze damage, as it is to keep the weight of the snow from pushing the safety cover into the water, where it makes "leaf tea" out of the leaves on the cover (and the soggy leaves then keep the cover weighted down, etc.. Over the course of the winter, rain and snowmelt bring the water level back up, so that this year (as usual) I don't have to add any water when I open.

    Saturday, a friend and I pulled the cover off, unstopped the plumbing, and got the filter running. I also pitched in the Polaris, and dumped in a 5 gallon bucket of 10% pool chlorine that I've had for a year or two (not sure how age affects that stuff) I also added one puck of I.T.S. "pHree & clear" (some sort of "magick water balancing pill, looks like a blue 3" puck, dissolves fairly fast and bubbles a bit in the pool) and dumped a pound bag of 1" chlorine tabs in the floater.

    The pump and Polaris have been running 24/7 since then, although for much of that time it probably wasn't doing much good as the DE filter plugged up rapidly (normal pressure around 8-10psi, got over 28 before I backwashed) which mostly kills circulation and also makes the Polaris stop working since the booster pump is on the filter output side...

    The water was better this year than I've often seen it in years past - brown instead of black, a lot of sediment on the bottom, some crud on the top, could (sort of) see the bottom in the shallow end - obviously the Polaris made this a lot worse when it started.

    This afternoon, the water had a greenish cast to it, but was relatively clear - I could see the main drain, along with all the dirt still on the bottom This is better than it has done in the past, but based on past patterns, I'm expecting I will still need to backwash at least daily for the next 3-4 days along with frequent cleanings of the Polaris bag before the water is relatively clear...

    Back in my pool-store days, I was told I should run the pool for 3-4 days until the water at least looked part way decent before I started bringing in samples for testing and chemical sales... I now have a brand new virgin TF-100, and want to know when I should start breaking it in, and possibly which tests I should worry about doing most? I am anxious to separate from the pool-store addiction, but don't want to waste time and tests doing stuff before the water is clear enough that the dirt won't screw up the results...

    As a separate, but related question, are there any good charts or equivalent for comparing pricing on the different forms of liquid chlorine?

    Gooserider
    Free-form Inground gunnite pool, Estimated 16-17K gallons. New Pentair TR60 ClearPro 24" sand filter and Compupool CPSC-48 SWG, Hayward SP1607X10 Pump w/ 1HP motor, 1.5" plumbing, Polaris Pressure cleaner w/ booster pump. pool is more than 25 yrs old, less than 35. Not painted, deteriorating tile surround. I am paraplegic, get in/out of pool w/ S.R. SMITH PAL portable pool lift (significantly modified)

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    MikeInTN's Avatar
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    Re: Opened yesterday, when should I start testing?

    Go ahead and do your tests now, so you know where you stand and what you need. I'd do them all - FC, CC, pH, TA, CH, and CYA.
    24' x 52" AGP - approx 13,500 gallons
    Pentair Optiflo 1 hp/2sp pump w/ Swimpro Voyager 150 sq ft cartridge filter
    Intex 8110 SWCG
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    Re: Opened yesterday, when should I start testing?

    Quote Originally Posted by Gooserider
    As a separate, but related question, are there any good charts or equivalent for comparing pricing on the different forms of liquid chlorine?
    Yep, Richard made one Now, you have to scroll down a little bit before it gets to the $$.......

    cost-comparison-of-chlorine-sources-t1859.html?hilit=prices%20chlorine
    TFP Moderator TF100 Test Kit TF100 TestKit YouTube Channel PoolMath
    You're done SLAMing when:
    1)You lose 1ppm or less FC overnight, & 2)You have .5ppm CC's or less, & 3)your water is clear.

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    Gooserider's Avatar
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    Re: Opened yesterday, when should I start testing?

    OK Mike, I'll run a full series tomorrow and see what I've got...

    Butterfly, that was an interesting comparison, but wasn't quite what I had in mind...

    What I was thinking in terms of is a cost per amount of chlorine among the various liquid types - i.e. I call the pool store and they have 12% at $X / gallon, and I can get 5% at $Y for generic or 6% at $Z for name brand / gallon at the local grocery store... Which is the better deal in terms of adding a desired amount of chlorine to my pool for the least amount of money...

    Seems like the sort of thing one could do with a spreadsheet or graphics item of some sort, but before I tried to reinvent that wheel, thought I'd ask to see if anyone else had done something of the sort...

    Gooserider
    Free-form Inground gunnite pool, Estimated 16-17K gallons. New Pentair TR60 ClearPro 24" sand filter and Compupool CPSC-48 SWG, Hayward SP1607X10 Pump w/ 1HP motor, 1.5" plumbing, Polaris Pressure cleaner w/ booster pump. pool is more than 25 yrs old, less than 35. Not painted, deteriorating tile surround. I am paraplegic, get in/out of pool w/ S.R. SMITH PAL portable pool lift (significantly modified)

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    Butterfly's Avatar
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    Re: Opened yesterday, when should I start testing?

    Oops. You can do a google search (bottom left of page) for chlorine costs and find bunches of threads.
    TFP Moderator TF100 Test Kit TF100 TestKit YouTube Channel PoolMath
    You're done SLAMing when:
    1)You lose 1ppm or less FC overnight, & 2)You have .5ppm CC's or less, & 3)your water is clear.

    ~ One should not use a sledge hammer to swat a mosquito. ~

    If you found TFP helpful and we saved you money ... Become a TFP Supporter!

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    Re: Opened yesterday, when should I start testing?

    Or you can use your trusty calculator, and do:

    price / ounces / percentage

    to get the equivalent price per ounce of hypochlorite. For example, places near me have 2 gal 10% for 6.99, or 4 gal 12.5% for 16.60. It works out as:
    6.99 / 256 / .10 = .273
    16.60 / 512 / .125 = .275
    so these are actually about the same. The place with 10% is 4 miles farther away so I get the 12.5% stuff.
    --paulr
    BBB "Intermediate Swimmer"
    IG plaster pool 18.5K gal, Hayward Pro-Grid DE filter, 3/4 HP Hydramax II; Polaris 380, 3/4 HP booster
    AG spa 325 gal, probably Sundance of some kind
    Water testing instructions on one page

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    frustratedpoolmom's Avatar
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    Re: Opened yesterday, when should I start testing?

    Bleach is all you need for closing. Once I understood pool chemistry and the various chems required, and started reading ingredient lables and asking questions....I learned those winterizing kits are a big money making product for the Pool Stores and I haven't used one for two winters now. I just shock my pool before I close. I opened 2 springs with clear water and chlorine residual.

    You can use Polyquat 60 algaecide before you shock before you close and this should help too. But really, it's just adequate FC and having your pool water balanced before closing that is important.

    So yes, post a full set of results and we'll let you know what's needed.
    Helpful links: Pool School; CYA/Chlorine Chart
    24' round AG pool, 52" high, Raypak heater; Waterway 2 spd Pump;
    150 Sq ft. Clearwater Cartridge Filter; Former and DISSATISFIED "Pool Frog" owner
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    Gooserider's Avatar
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    Re: Opened yesterday, when should I start testing?

    OK, hot off the test kit...

    Water is clear, but rather green tinted in the pool, and filter pressure is barely up over last night - which is a bit of a record for me in terms of getting the water relatively clear.

    Still a lot of **** on the bottom, not sure why, but the Polaris seems even worse than usual about getting stuck on the steps and goofing off instead of doing it's job.

    The Taylor drop test showed a CL of 5+ (I really couldn't see a difference in the block scales) and a pH of 7.8 - again I really couldn't see much difference, but that seemed as close as I could get.

    The Chlorine drop test

    I got between 2 & 3 drops initially, so say 1ppm FC

    then 12-13 drops on the second round, so 6ppm CC

    and a combined total of 7ppm TC - which makes sense in terms of the Taylor results.

    Total Alkalinity took 12-13 drops for a TA of 120-130

    Calcium Hardness took 30 drops, for a CH of 300

    CYA seems very low - I filled the tube to the brim and while the dot got murky, I could still see it pretty clearly - so "Under 20"...

    Looks to me like I need to add a small boatload of bleach, and some CYA, but otherwise am not in terribly bad shape - pH is a bit high, but some of the other stuff will bring that down IIRC the effects of adding chemicals...

    Gooserider
    Free-form Inground gunnite pool, Estimated 16-17K gallons. New Pentair TR60 ClearPro 24" sand filter and Compupool CPSC-48 SWG, Hayward SP1607X10 Pump w/ 1HP motor, 1.5" plumbing, Polaris Pressure cleaner w/ booster pump. pool is more than 25 yrs old, less than 35. Not painted, deteriorating tile surround. I am paraplegic, get in/out of pool w/ S.R. SMITH PAL portable pool lift (significantly modified)

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    Gooserider's Avatar
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    Re: Opened yesterday, when should I start testing?

    In getting ready to go chlorine shopping, I did some inventory of my existing shelf of pool chemistry...

    I found I had several 1lb bags of "pool shock" - 65% chlorine powder, rest "inert ingredients" which probably is CYA... Since that and my chlorine were both very low, I pitched in 4 bags...

    I have a variety of chemicals to raise and lower pH and TA, which I don't see much need to worry about for now.

    I have a couple bottles of phosphate and metals reducing agents - I realize they probably won't do that much good, but is there any reason not to use them since I have them on hand?

    Ditto some other algecides - a couple bottles each, one that lists copper as the active ingredient, and the other that has some long organic chemical (polyquat?)

    Don't see any need to use it at the moment, but we also have a gallon jug of muriatic acid that is probably at least 15 years old (came with the house) is that likely still to be any good???

    Are there any chemicals that I need to watch out for as definite "don't use that" items among things that are likely to be on my chemistry shelves when I'm transitioning to BBB?

    Gooserider
    (Who is about to go chlorine shopping...)
    Free-form Inground gunnite pool, Estimated 16-17K gallons. New Pentair TR60 ClearPro 24" sand filter and Compupool CPSC-48 SWG, Hayward SP1607X10 Pump w/ 1HP motor, 1.5" plumbing, Polaris Pressure cleaner w/ booster pump. pool is more than 25 yrs old, less than 35. Not painted, deteriorating tile surround. I am paraplegic, get in/out of pool w/ S.R. SMITH PAL portable pool lift (significantly modified)

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    frustratedpoolmom's Avatar
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    Re: Opened yesterday, when should I start testing?

    Quote Originally Posted by Gooserider
    In getting ready to go chlorine shopping, I did some inventory of my existing shelf of pool chemistry...

    I found I had several 1lb bags of "pool shock" - 65% chlorine powder, rest "inert ingredients" which probably is CYA... Since that and my chlorine were both very low, I pitched in 4 bags...

    I have a variety of chemicals to raise and lower pH and TA, which I don't see much need to worry about for now.

    I have a couple bottles of phosphate and metals reducing agents - I realize they probably won't do that much good, but is there any reason not to use them since I have them on hand?

    Ditto some other algecides - a couple bottles each, one that lists copper as the active ingredient, and the other that has some long organic chemical (polyquat?)

    Don't see any need to use it at the moment, but we also have a gallon jug of muriatic acid that is probably at least 15 years old (came with the house) is that likely still to be any good???

    Are there any chemicals that I need to watch out for as definite "don't use that" items among things that are likely to be on my chemistry shelves when I'm transitioning to BBB?

    Gooserider
    (Who is about to go chlorine shopping...)
    Was the chlorine powder Cal-Hypo or Dichlor?....2 totally different animals. CYA is not an inert ingredient, it would be an active one.

    Algaecide.... Copper based - toss....the other, if you can post the exact ingredient it would be helpful.
    Phosphate removers unneccessary, but you can keep it on hand JIC, metal removers, again, keep on hand, any reason to suspect metals are present? How old are these various chems? If old, I wouldn't bother to go out an replace unless a specific issue is diagnosed.

    Don't know on the MA. Is the bottle beginning to degrade?

    Granular products tend to have a longer shelf life when stored properly.

    BBB is KISS It's simple and it works. So Bleach, Borax, Baking Soda, plus the occasional Muratic Acid and Cyanuric Acid. Occassionally other products might be necessary, but rare.
    Helpful links: Pool School; CYA/Chlorine Chart
    24' round AG pool, 52" high, Raypak heater; Waterway 2 spd Pump;
    150 Sq ft. Clearwater Cartridge Filter; Former and DISSATISFIED "Pool Frog" owner
    http://www.PerfectlyClearPoolService.com

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    Gooserider's Avatar
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    Re: Opened yesterday, when should I start testing?

    Quote Originally Posted by frustratedpoolmom
    Quote Originally Posted by Gooserider
    In getting ready to go chlorine shopping, I did some inventory of my existing shelf of pool chemistry...

    I found I had several 1lb bags of "pool shock" - 65% chlorine powder, rest "inert ingredients" which probably is CYA... Since that and my chlorine were both very low, I pitched in 4 bags...

    I have a variety of chemicals to raise and lower pH and TA, which I don't see much need to worry about for now.

    I have a couple bottles of phosphate and metals reducing agents - I realize they probably won't do that much good, but is there any reason not to use them since I have them on hand?

    Ditto some other algecides - a couple bottles each, one that lists copper as the active ingredient, and the other that has some long organic chemical (polyquat?)

    Don't see any need to use it at the moment, but we also have a gallon jug of muriatic acid that is probably at least 15 years old (came with the house) is that likely still to be any good???

    Are there any chemicals that I need to watch out for as definite "don't use that" items among things that are likely to be on my chemistry shelves when I'm transitioning to BBB?

    Gooserider
    (Who is about to go chlorine shopping...)
    Was the chlorine powder Cal-Hypo or Dichlor?....2 totally different animals. CYA is not an inert ingredient, it would be an active one.
    Not sure, as the package was not real clear, and neither is the In-The-Swim catalog. (Most of my chemical collection is either from ITS startup / closing kits, or their chlorine packages) However the package was quite clearly labeled as 68% Calcium hypochlorite and the rest as inert ingredients - so if CYA would be listed, this must not have been Dichlor

    Algaecide.... Copper based - toss....the other, if you can post the exact ingredient it would be helpful.
    OK, the copper based stuff is labeled as "Super Algaecide" with ingredients, 7.1% "copper as elemental", 92.9% inert ingredients. The function says for controlling mustard algae. Right now I have green tinted water - and probably won't be swimming much for a while, as the pool is still quite "refreshing" (The GF says bleeping COLD! ) would it help the chlorine kill whatever's in there if I toss it in?

    The other stuff is just labeled as "Algaecide" and has in it...
    Alkyl (60%C14, 30%C16, 5%C12, 5%C18) dimethyl benzyl amonium chloride - 9.96%
    Dialkyl (60%C14, 30%C16, 5%C12, 5%C18) dimethyl benzyl amonium chloride-0.04%
    Inert ingredients - 90.0%
    Phosphate removers unneccessary, but you can keep it on hand JIC, metal removers, again, keep on hand, any reason to suspect metals are present? How old are these various chems? If old, I wouldn't bother to go out an replace unless a specific issue is diagnosed.
    The phosphate and metal removers are "Natural Chemistry" brand "pool magic" products and are a year or two old... I don't have specific reason to suspect metals other than the amount of tree and vegetation debris I get (LOTS) plus all the suicidal mice, frogs, bugs, etc... I also seem to get a lot of sand from someplace as the robot is always picking it up. Don't know, but it wouldn't seem unreasonable to me that these would add some amount of metals between the time they get into the pool and I pull them back out... Sounds like I don't need to worry about this all that much, but does it make any sense to use them just to get rid of them?

    Don't know on the MA. Is the bottle beginning to degrade?
    No sign of it... The bottle looks old in terms of the amount of dirt built up on it, but it doesn't seem to have any signs of deterioration otherwise.

    Granular products tend to have a longer shelf life when stored properly.
    BBB is KISS It's simple and it works. So Bleach, Borax, Baking Soda, plus the occasional Muratic Acid and Cyanuric Acid. Occassionally other products might be necessary, but rare.
    That's what I'm after, but since I have this other stuff on my shelf, I'm trying to see what I should do with it... My instinct is to want to use it up if it does some good, even if it isn't strictly necessary and not replace it when it's gone (other than w/ BBB stuff...) I will admit that I'm not sure how I'm going to be about doing DAILY testing and measurement (in the past I was doing good to get every 2-3 days) so I'm thinking it might be worth the use of some polyquat as some threads have suggested in order to back up the chlorine...

    Other stuff on the shelf -
    As mentioned this ITS "pHree & clear" (that's the way it's spelled!) tablets - they reccomend 2-3 tabs / week, along w/ the use of 3" trichlor pucks. I've been using 1" trichlor tablets, I have about 1/2 a container of each left - my impression is that I should be saving the trichlor for vacations and such. The pHree & clear I'm not as sure about as I can't find anything on the package that actually says what's in it... The catalog says it has "several carbonates, a clarifier, and several secret ingredients" Googling for it gets lots of hits, but I didn't find anything informative...

    I also found a bunch of "non-chlorine shock" - says it has 45% Potassium Monopersulfate, and 55% "other ingredients"... Is this stuff any good? When should I use it?

    Gooserider
    Free-form Inground gunnite pool, Estimated 16-17K gallons. New Pentair TR60 ClearPro 24" sand filter and Compupool CPSC-48 SWG, Hayward SP1607X10 Pump w/ 1HP motor, 1.5" plumbing, Polaris Pressure cleaner w/ booster pump. pool is more than 25 yrs old, less than 35. Not painted, deteriorating tile surround. I am paraplegic, get in/out of pool w/ S.R. SMITH PAL portable pool lift (significantly modified)

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    frustratedpoolmom's Avatar
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    Re: Opened yesterday, when should I start testing?

    Whew! That's a lot... Let's see...

    Okay, your powder was Cal-Hypo - no CYA.

    Both Algaecides - I would toss, the first being copper - you DON'T want that in your pool. The second being a "linear quat algeacide" which can cause foaming, again, it's not necessary in a properly maintained pool. If you elect to use Polyquat 60 to supplement that's up to you but it's truly not necessary and can get expensive for regular use. We recommend it in certain specific situations, for everyday sanitation you just need chlorine.

    It's never a good idea to just dump stuff in your pool, just cause you have it on hand. I'm not saying don't keep it, I'm just saying use them when they are necessary, not just because it's there.

    If you experience metal issues, like staining then use the metal products, but post an update first to confirm that's what is required.

    So you can either toss the extra products or keep them on hand. I wouldn't just use them for the heck of it.

    Hopefully someone who knows about the muratic acid strength after 15 years will chime in. I'm guessing it's no good but it's a total guess.

    Phree & clear - Waterbear probably knows what that is, and I'm fairly certain that again, not necessary. Keep it or toss it but don't just add it cause you happen to have it.

    Save the pucks for vacations, etc.

    The non-chlorine shock is MPS and it's really better suited for indoor pools/spas. I wouldn't use it in your pool.

    I like it simple too, and I test my chlorine every other day. In 2 years I have not added anything besides bleach and I have never had green water or any problems since switching to BBB. So test in the evening, use your current FC to determine how much bleach you need to add. For my goal I use the "target" on the CYA chart and dose to that or 1 or 2ppm higher, and usually for my pool, which has a light bather load and is covered the majority of the time, that's enough to get me through for 36-48 hours before I test again and add more. If I'm having extra swimmers or a party, I bump it up more in advance and then dose again after everyone's done swimming. As you get to know your pool's chlorine demand, at first testing daily, you'll get an idea of how much your pool requires on a daily basis and you'll get to an every other day point. It works for me, it may work for you too. But for a while, test every evening and add enough bleach daily to keep you above the minimum at all times.
    Helpful links: Pool School; CYA/Chlorine Chart
    24' round AG pool, 52" high, Raypak heater; Waterway 2 spd Pump;
    150 Sq ft. Clearwater Cartridge Filter; Former and DISSATISFIED "Pool Frog" owner
    http://www.PerfectlyClearPoolService.com

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    Gooserider's Avatar
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    Re: Opened yesterday, when should I start testing?

    OK, testing at 11:00 PM

    I got 1ppm FC (2 drops)
    11.5 ppm CC (23 drops)

    so TC = 12.5

    Since the other numbers weren't that bad, I'm not worrying about them for now... (right?)

    Now as I understand the drill at this point, I need to add LOTS of chlorine "Right NOW" to get it up to the "shock level" - if my CYA test is right, (less than 20)
    I should dump in about 1.5 gallons of 12% (When I went shopping earlier, I found my local Namco had 12% in 5 gallon jugs for 22.99, including a $6.00 deposit, got 4 jugs)

    I keep doing this until I get the CC to go down to 0.5 or less (one drop?) and the FC to stay above the minimum, correct?

    Just got back in from adding the chlorine - I had to guess a bit as I don't have any easy way to measure the stuff in large volumes right now (will need to make some cut down container measures in the next day or two...) I figure being over won't really hurt anything as I'm guessing that it will take a few days to get this under control...

    Gooserider
    Free-form Inground gunnite pool, Estimated 16-17K gallons. New Pentair TR60 ClearPro 24" sand filter and Compupool CPSC-48 SWG, Hayward SP1607X10 Pump w/ 1HP motor, 1.5" plumbing, Polaris Pressure cleaner w/ booster pump. pool is more than 25 yrs old, less than 35. Not painted, deteriorating tile surround. I am paraplegic, get in/out of pool w/ S.R. SMITH PAL portable pool lift (significantly modified)

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    Re: Opened yesterday, when should I start testing?

    Quote Originally Posted by Gooserider
    Since the other numbers weren't that bad, I'm not worrying about them for now... (right?)
    A while back you said pH 7.8 which is on the high side. You've started shocking so you won't be able to measure pH reliably again until that's done (FC > 10 makes the pH test progressively less reliable). I would have suggested a bit of MA to drop it a little. But it can wait, I think.
    Quote Originally Posted by Gooserider
    Now as I understand the drill at this point, I need to add LOTS of chlorine "Right NOW" to get it up to the "shock level" - if my CYA test is right, (less than 20) I should dump in about 1.5 gallons of 12% (When I went shopping earlier, I found my local Namco had 12% in 5 gallon jugs for 22.99, including a $6.00 deposit, got 4 jugs)

    I keep doing this until I get the CC to go down to 0.5 or less (one drop?) and the FC to stay above the minimum, correct?
    Maintain shock level until:
    1) CC is 0.5 or less
    2) The overnight drop in FC is 1ppm or less
    3) Water looks good
    When you have those three conditions, you're okay to let the FC come down to normal levels.
    --paulr
    BBB "Intermediate Swimmer"
    IG plaster pool 18.5K gal, Hayward Pro-Grid DE filter, 3/4 HP Hydramax II; Polaris 380, 3/4 HP booster
    AG spa 325 gal, probably Sundance of some kind
    Water testing instructions on one page

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    Re: Opened yesterday, when should I start testing?

    Ah, shoulda done this before... put your numbers into the Pool Calculator and your CSI might be getting a wee bit high, depending on your water temp. A couple cups of MA wouldn't hurt anything. I'd wait on any more until you can measure pH reliably again.

    Also you want to put in some CYA, otherwise all that brand new chlorine will get zapped by the sun instead of killing off algae.
    --paulr
    BBB "Intermediate Swimmer"
    IG plaster pool 18.5K gal, Hayward Pro-Grid DE filter, 3/4 HP Hydramax II; Polaris 380, 3/4 HP booster
    AG spa 325 gal, probably Sundance of some kind
    Water testing instructions on one page

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    Gooserider's Avatar
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    Re: Opened yesterday, when should I start testing?

    As of yesterday's test, the CSI:Pool Calculator showed no evidence of problem - 0.24, which should be fine for now.

    As of 10:00 AM, The pool water is no longer green, it is now clear and the bottom (and the crud on it, which is less) is clearly visible. Filter pressure was up to 25PSI, so I backwashed - hopefully for the last time for a while. This is one reason I was holding off on the CYA addition, pool school says you shouldn't backwash for a while after adding it, and knowing that pressure was going to make me need to backwash frequently for a while...

    However in the past once I got the water reasonably clear my backwash frequency went way down, so I will add some tonight if it it looks like the pressure is doing right.

    EDIT - since the water looked pretty decent, I decided to add 10 oz. of CYA (the PC says add 23 oz, but I want to avoid adding too much) to the skimmer, hopefully I won't have to backwash for a while... END EDIT

    My chlorine was mixed results - for some reason adding the powder to the water did NOT give me very much pink color - is this normal? In the past, I would get a very distinct pink, but this time I could hardly see it. (I also noticed my 870 powder looked like it was a mix of two different powders, one coarser and whiter than the other - is this correct?)

    FC - 1 drop - 0.5
    CC - 5 drops - 2.5
    TC - 3

    Gooserider
    Free-form Inground gunnite pool, Estimated 16-17K gallons. New Pentair TR60 ClearPro 24" sand filter and Compupool CPSC-48 SWG, Hayward SP1607X10 Pump w/ 1HP motor, 1.5" plumbing, Polaris Pressure cleaner w/ booster pump. pool is more than 25 yrs old, less than 35. Not painted, deteriorating tile surround. I am paraplegic, get in/out of pool w/ S.R. SMITH PAL portable pool lift (significantly modified)

  17. Back To Top    #17
    JasonLion's Avatar
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    May 2007
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    Silver Spring, MD
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    37,887

    Re: Opened yesterday, when should I start testing?

    You are definitely making progress. Keep raising FC to shock level till you can sustain your FC level overnight.
    19K gal, vinyl, 1/2 HP WhisperFlo pump, 200 sqft cartridge filter, AutoPilot Digital SWG, Dolphin Dynamic cleaning robot
    Creator of PoolMath and Pool Calculator. Other handy links: Support this site, TF Test Kits, Pool School

  18. Back To Top    #18
    frustratedpoolmom's Avatar
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    May 2007
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    Re: Opened yesterday, when should I start testing?

    That powder description is normal, light pink result just means your chlorine is very low, as evidenced by the test results.

    You need to keep shocking.

    You can put the CYA in a sock and set it in the skimmer. This way it won't interefere if you need to backwash. Just make sure you don't block the flow of water. I did it last week, was able to put about 2 lbs in a sock and it didn't block the water flow.
    Helpful links: Pool School; CYA/Chlorine Chart
    24' round AG pool, 52" high, Raypak heater; Waterway 2 spd Pump;
    150 Sq ft. Clearwater Cartridge Filter; Former and DISSATISFIED "Pool Frog" owner
    http://www.PerfectlyClearPoolService.com

  19. Back To Top    #19
    Gooserider's Avatar
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    Feb 2009
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    Re: Opened yesterday, when should I start testing?

    Good progress - Water still looks good, and the robot has gotten more of the crud off the bottom. Filter pressure is staying at my usual range of 8-12 psi (8 w/ robot on, 12 w/ it off)

    Chlorine was relatively nice as well -

    FC 11 drops 5.5
    CC 1 drop 0.5
    TC 6

    This is about 1/2 my targetted shock level, so given that it held that level since this morning, with sunny but cool weather, I think that means I'm in pretty decent shape... Will bring it back up to target level in a bit, and see what it looks like in the AM...

    Definitely seems like this is the fastest I've ever gotten the pool in shape after opening it up...

    (BTW, I noticed in Pool School, you have seperate articles on closing AG and IG pools, and there is one on opening an AG, but not a corresponding one for opening an IG... Another minor hole I saw is in the filter type comparison, it might be worth discussing how each filter type is to winterize (especially assuming freezing weather))

    Gooserider
    Free-form Inground gunnite pool, Estimated 16-17K gallons. New Pentair TR60 ClearPro 24" sand filter and Compupool CPSC-48 SWG, Hayward SP1607X10 Pump w/ 1HP motor, 1.5" plumbing, Polaris Pressure cleaner w/ booster pump. pool is more than 25 yrs old, less than 35. Not painted, deteriorating tile surround. I am paraplegic, get in/out of pool w/ S.R. SMITH PAL portable pool lift (significantly modified)

  20. Back To Top    #20
    Gooserider's Avatar
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    Feb 2009
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    211

    Re: Opened yesterday, when should I start testing?

    I think I may have it... 8)

    11:AM, and raining heavily, so it is daylight but minimal sun...

    FC - 22 drops, 11ppm
    CC - 1 drop, 0.5 ppm, and that was BARELY getting a color change w/ the 003, and going back to clear almost instantly w/ the drop of 871

    I had brought it up to shock level 12ppm last night around 7:PM, when there was still about an hour of daylight left... Given that I have (I think) a pretty low CYA level, I think that's acceptable?

    If so, do I now just let the pool coast back down to "target" levels (around 4-5)?

    Gooserider
    Free-form Inground gunnite pool, Estimated 16-17K gallons. New Pentair TR60 ClearPro 24" sand filter and Compupool CPSC-48 SWG, Hayward SP1607X10 Pump w/ 1HP motor, 1.5" plumbing, Polaris Pressure cleaner w/ booster pump. pool is more than 25 yrs old, less than 35. Not painted, deteriorating tile surround. I am paraplegic, get in/out of pool w/ S.R. SMITH PAL portable pool lift (significantly modified)

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