Just ordered K-2006 TK and heading into BBB. Question . . .

[Petermgr]

Hi all,

Well I've taken the plunge and ordered the K-2006 Test Kit here in Canada. OUCH on the price, but moving forward . . . I will be using the BBB method from here on.

But I have a question regarding the Pool Calculator. Even though the volume of water can be entered in the "Size" field, do the calculations apply the same to pools and spas? I'm just wondering if the calculator would apply to my spa. The reason I ask is that I notice on my test strips there are different ranges for spa vs pool. I have already played with the Pool Calculator using the suggest goal levels from TroubleFreePool.com. However, I just picked up a very cheap test kit just for FC and PH. The scale for the FC in this kit is 0.3 to 3.0 with 1.0 showing as ideal. But again, the kit does not specific pool or spa. Just want to make sure I'm applying the proper target levels.

Peter

 

[JasonLion]

The recommended levels in my Pool Calculator, and in Pool School, only apply to pools. The actual calculations apply to both pools and spas. For some suggestions on how to take care of a spa see How do I use Chlorine in my Spa (or pool)? and How do I use Bromine in my spa (or pool)?.

 

[PaulR]

I use the Pool Calculator to figure out how much stuff to put in my spa. Once I figured out the right number of gallons to tell it, I've been very happy with the results.
--paulr

 

[Petermgr]

The recommended levels in my Pool Calculator, and in Pool School, only apply to pools. The actual calculations apply to both pools and spas. For some suggestions on how to take care of a spa see How do I use Chlorine in my Spa (or pool)? and How do I use Bromine in my spa (or pool)?.

Thanks Jason.

 

[Petermgr]

I use the Pool Calculator to figure out how much stuff to put in my spa. Once I figured out the right number of gallons to tell it, I've been very happy with the results.
--paulr

Thanks Paul. I have figured out the gallons etc. However, I need to determine what my ideal targets should be. I will digest the information in "How do I use Chlorine in my Spa (or pool)?" and hopefully get the right balance.

 

[Nitro]

Peter,

The main (and important) thing to remember about water balance is, adjust your TA in order to keep your pH in line. If you're going to be using the Dichlor/Bleach (BBB) method, adjust your TA initially to around 60 ppm using the Acid/Aeration method. Check out the link further down "Lowering TA" for details. Then fine tune your TA in the coming days. If your pH rises above 7.8, lower TA by 5 ppm. If your pH drops below 7.4 (and stays there), raise TA by 5 ppm. I think you'll find a TA somewhere in the range of 50-60 ppm to be ideal.

After you get your TA/pH balanced, and assuming you haven't already done so already, check your Calcium Hardness (CH). If CH is anywhere between 100-200 ppm, you should be fine. If it's below 100, you can add Calcium to increase it to 150 ppm. My TA is 50 ppm, pH 7.6-7.8 and I have my CH at 200 ppm, which puts me slightly negative SI. I also have 50 ppm Borates which is highly recommended for stablizing pH, and making the water feel silkier.

 

[PaulR]

I second the motion on the borates. I have TA 50, borates 30, pH 7.5 and it hasn't budged in a month.
--paulr

 

[Petermgr]

Peter, The main (and important) thing to remember about water balance is, adjust your TA in order to keep your pH in line. If you're going to be using the Dichlor/Bleach (BBB) method, adjust your TA initially to around 60 ppm using the Acid/Aeration method. Check out the link further down "Lowering TA" for details. Then fine tune your TA in the coming days. If your pH rises above 7.8, lower TA by 5 ppm. If your pH drops below 7.4 (and stays there), raise TA by 5 ppm. I think you'll find a TA somewhere in the range of 50-60 ppm to be ideal. After you get your TA/pH balanced, and assuming you haven't already done so already, check your Calcium Hardness (CH). If CH is anywhere between 100-200 ppm, you should be fine. If it's below 100, you can add Calcium to increase it to 150 ppm. My TA is 50 ppm, pH 7.6-7.8 and I have my CH at 200 ppm, which puts me slightly negative SI. I also have 50 ppm Borates which is highly recommended for stablizing pH, and making the water feel silkier.

Thanks Nitro.

I'll certainly do all those checks once I get my kit delivered. Right now I'm keeping the FC and PH in line with my cheap liquid test kit that provides readings for only FC and PH.

I need to get myself accustomed to all the terminology and logic behind the processes. The one thing that nags at me a bit is that fact that my Paper Test Strips show there is a different acceptable range for pools vs spas for FC. The Test Strips indicate that a higher reading should be maintained. I'm assuming that is the case because of the much lower volume of water in a spa. However, my cheap liquid test kit simply indicates the same recommended FC level for both pool and spa.

Looking forward to getting the K-2006 kit which will give me a much better idea of what's going on with my spa . . .

Peter

 

[Petermgr]

I second the motion on the borates. I have TA 50, borates 30, pH 7.5 and it hasn't budged in a month.
--paulr

Hi Paul,

Is that in your spa or pool?

Peter

 

[PaulR]

Hi Paul,

Is that in your spa or pool?

Peter

In the spa. Haven't decided about the pool yet.
--paulr