Need help

[Ron55]

Morning all.
Spending a frustrating night and came here for some advise.

First pool specs. I have a 27,000 gallon in ground pool. Hayward DE filter. Jandy Heater. Hayward Chlorinator Nature 2 mineral cartridge. PH 7.6.

In April when I opened the pool pool water was fairly clear but had a lot stuff on the bottom resembled dirt. Vacuumed it up appeared again the next day. Thinking it was algae. After getting a new pool vacuum (dolphin) I was able to keep the "dirt" in check better. After several back washings pool water was crystal clear but wasn't able to keep any level of chlorine. Noticed pucks weren't dissolving so go a new o ring in chlorinator and that is working.

Backwashed again and with a clean looking pool I started SLAM. CYA was 40 raised the Chlorine level to 16-18.

Checked in 90 minutes it was down to 12 CC was 1.0. Added more chlorine back to 16. An hour later was back down to 12 added more chlorine. TC 16 CC was 1.5. Went to bed. 7 hours later Chorine is 1.0 and CC is .5. Added more chlorine.

I need to backwash filter as the pressure went up from 18 - 25PSI. From all the dead algae I guess.

Added more chlorine. Pool is still crystal clear other then green deposits near the jets where return water is coming into the pool.

I've already gone through 12 gallons of chlorine.

Do I just continue like this?

Thanks.

Ron

 

[Texas Splash]

Hi Ron and welcome to TFP! You have a couple issues that we here at TFP would immediately advise you to be concerned about:
- The Nature 2 Mineral packs add copper to your water (green hair & staining). Metal cannot be remove other than by water exchange
- Continued use of chlorine tabs increase CYA to an unmanageable point also requiring staining.

This is why we at TFP advise using regular bleach/chlorine as a sanitizer for those who do not have a salt water generator to create free chlorine. Regular bleach has virtually no side effects when administered properly. What I would suggest is the following:

- Remove and mineral packs and chlorine tablets right away
- Post a full set of test results from a TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C test kit (link below). If you don't have either test kit, please order one for yourself. No one will test your water more accurately than you - other than perhaps another TFP member.

Nice to have you with us!

 

[cowboycasey]

Yep, keep it going, your killing stuff, do you still have the Nature 2 cartridge in, if so that is where you green is coming from, take it out or at least the contents... the nature 2 has metals that you do not want in your pool, also take the pucks out of the chlorinator if you have not already

you may go through way more chlorine until you done, if you fill in where you live <<<< over there we can help with some more advice, and fill in your signature it also helps

Trouble Free Pool
Trouble Free Pool

 

[Ron55]

Thanks for the help thus far. I live on Long island. I have a Taylor K2006 kit.

Other readings were: Alkalinity 110, Calcium 270.

Are you saying the green is from the mineralizer adding copper and not algae? That wouldn't explain that something is eating up the chlorine?

The chlorine I was using was 12.5% . Something else I can use that is better and or cheaper? At this rate I can see spending hundreds of dollars in chlorine to get this back to where it should be.

Thanks for all the help.

 

[cowboycasey]

12.5% is perfect, you will use the least amount for the SLAM... depending on how bad the algae was it can take a lot to bring your pool back, you will start to use less chlorine as you kill more and get near the end

 

[Ron55]

Ok thanks. I guess I'm just being cheap lol.

Took the chlorine pucks out. Need to get a cap for the Nature 2 before I can remove it so that may be a while.

Added 2 more gallons of chlorine and the TC went way up, (to 22). CC is still at 1.0. Think it is safe for the pool robot to run while the chlorine is so

high?

 

[cowboycasey]

Could you post all your starting numbers? what was your CYA at, that will depend on how high your SLAM is.. I think your robot will be fine mine was in 32 FC at 80 CYA for 3 days and had no issues

 

[Ron55]

Could you post all your starting numbers? what was your CYA at, that will depend on how high your SLAM is.. I think your robot will be fine mine was in 32 FC at 80 CYA for 3 days and had no issues

Starting TC was 0
CYA 40
AK 110
CH 270


I think I am making some progress as the TC isn't going down as quickly. I am keeping it above 16-18.
CC was as high as 1.5, now it is somewhere between .5 and 1.0.

 

[cowboycasey]

perfect, your getting it

 

[Ron55]

Ok I think I succeeded! TC yesterday was at 15-16 and FC was at 0.5. Water is crystal clear.

I was at work all day so couldn't monitor it during the day. FC in the evening was at 11.0 and CC was below 0.5. It was a very sunny and windy day yesterday too.

Didn't check it once it got dark last night because I was running out of reagent and wanted to check it more accurately this morning at 25ml and using the 0.2 per drop scale.

I didn't check this morning at sunrise but 1 1/2 hours after daybreak and the FC was 9.0 and CC was 0.4. Water still crystal.

I know the FC should only drop less then 1.0 and my drop was 2.0, but with the pool exposed to the evening light and morning light, I think some of that was responsible. CC is less then .5 and has been for several days.

I changed the DE in filter and now I need to add water.

A few more questions.

At what TC level can we use the pool? Daughter has her friend coming over tonight. I'm sure adding water to the pool today will reduce it below 9.0 but not sure how much.

Assuming AK and CH and CYA all stay in normal ranges. Do I just add liquid chlorine at this point? What range should I keep TC at?

Thanks for all the help.

 

[Ron55]

I'd also like to support the site by purchasing reagent refills from TFteskits.

At this point I only need the R-0871 and R-013 CYA reagent refill.

Is the FAS-DPD listed the same as the Taylor FAS-DPD Titrating Reagent I have in my Taylor K2006 kit? I'm not sure if the omission of the word titrating makes a difference.

Thanks.

 

[kimkats]

I'd also like to support the site by purchasing reagent refills from TFteskits.

At this point I only need the R-0871 and R-013 CYA reagent refill.

Is the FAS-DPD listed the same as the Taylor FAS-DPD Titrating Reagent I have in my Taylor K2006 kit? I'm not sure if the omission of the word titrating makes a difference.



Thanks.

It is ALL Taylor products. TFtestkits just packages it in more user friendly sizes aka more of what we use each day.

Kim:cat:

 

[Ron55]

It is ALL Taylor products. TFtestkits just packages it in more user friendly sizes aka more of what we use each day.

Kim:cat:

Thanks Kim. I will order it today.

Can you perhaps answer my questions in the post I had above the one about ordering reagents?

I read somewhere on the site that TC of 3-7 was ok with my CYA of 40 and a vinyl lined pool.

Then I read somewhere it should not be above 5?

I'm guessing 3 - 7 is acceptable and 5 optimum?

I had always thought a TC was a maximum but I guess from what I have read here it all depends on the pool liner type and CYA?

 

[cowboycasey]

you got it, with 40 CYA 3 to 7 is acceptable and 5 optimal

 

[Ron55]

you got it, with 40 CYA 3 to 7 is acceptable and 5 optimal

Awesome. I'm sure with the water addition and sunlight today It will be below 7. Happy daughter = happy dad.

Thanks again.

 

[duraleigh]

Ron55,

Yours is a classic SLAM. You cannot worry about the chlorine cost. It's the only way to get your pool clear and it's the cheapest way.

Once you get your pool crystal clear, be diligent and keep it that way.....with chlorine.

 

[kimkats]

Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart

Pool School - Recommended Levels

Take a look at these ^^^ You can swim at just below your SLAM level for your CYA level. CANNON BALL!

Kim:cat:

 

[Ron55]

Thanks again all. TC is now at 7.5. CC is at 0.2

One more backwash and I'll be in maintenance mode.

I knew it was a success when I sent the robot out for her 2 1/2 hour trip and the full filter light didn't come on. First time!

 

[Ron55]

I just wanted to report back that things are still looking good.

TC is staying for the most part between 3-7. CC has been zero!
AK is still 110. PH 7.6 CH 230. Water is crystal.

I have been adding 1/2 gallon of liquid chlorine about twice a week to keep it there. We've had lots of sun and some big downpours.

One more question. Now that I've given up the chlorine tabs and just using the liquid chlorine, how to I maintain the chlorine levels if I'm away for a week? Do I raise it higher and then just let it settle down over the 7 days?

Thanks again.

 

[cowboycasey]

ahhh, that is the wonderful part of TFP knowing what you are adding and what it does to your water...

Those pucks that were adding CYA, they are great for vacations, just know what each puck will add in CYA and raise your FC level to match Use one of the cheap tab floaters..