New to pool testing. Help with test results please

Jun 11, 2016
48
statesboro, ga
Hello,

Here are my test results. This is first time I have noticed CC as -1. I did not do the testing myself as I am teaching someone else to use our test kit and they decided to proceed without me. They may have written down the numbers incorrectly or misread the result. Even so what would I do if the CC was actually -1. Usually CC is zero.

FC 3
Cc -1
Total Chlorine 2
CYA 40
PH 8.0
TA 80
CH i guess this is Calcium Hardness which i do not test as liner is vinyl.

By the way it seems every time I test my pH is 8.0. Why is that and what may be done about it besides adding Muriatic Acid (about 3.37 cups)?

Thanks in advance for the assistance.
 
-1 CC is impossible. It is like having negative 500 gallons of water in your pool. It can't be less than 0. Lowering PH will lower TA slowly and eventually they will reach equilibrium and PH rise will slow or stop. CH is only important if it is over 350 or 400.
 
If you would walk us through, step by step, how you are getting you CC. Did you know there are videos for the tests? Just in case here is a link to them:

Taylor Test Kit (K-1006 - K-2005) - YouTube

Next lets talk about your PH. My guess is that your PH is much higher than 8 but 8 is as high as the test goes so...that is what you are seeing. When you have a couple of hours test and does about every 15 mins or so. Make sure your pump is on high and brush the pool to help mix it up good. Keep it up until you see the PH below 8. Shoot for 7.5 for now.

So there are your two homeworks for now. Once you finish these I am sure I will come up with more for you LOL

Kim:cat:
 
I use the instructions inside the Taylor K-2005 to test for Free, Combined & total Chlorine. I walk to the opposite side of the skimmer, put the plastic bottle upside down into the water to my elbow, cover the opening with my hand, bring it up, place the screw cap on, take it into the house and proceed to pour the sample into the comparator to p ml, next 5 drops r-0002 and 5 drops R0002, mix match record as ppm FC. Next 5 drops r003 mix, match and record as TC then TC - FC = CC. When I do the testing CC always = zero.

So what do you think the initial dose of MA should be 4 cups and then test, then 2 cups, etc.

I do use use PoolMath to calculate ounces of Muriatic Acid to add. Usually it i put in 4 cups based on the K-2005 test. I use the Acid Demand test (counting the # of drops and looking at table in back of book. So if pH is higher than 8 i should use poolmath to bring it down to 7.2? Why would the pH be higher than 8?
 
PH being up can be caused by MANY things. I can push mine up just by turning the return eyeball up so that it rolls the water and the next day my PH will be higher! Big rain, sprinklers, fountains, waterfalls, lots of cannon balls, splashing, etc. will cause the PH to go up.

Once you get it back down to 7.5 or so we will talk about how to keep it there. TA has a lot to do with the PH being stable BUT that is the LAST thing we work on.

Right now it looks like you are doing the FC test the right way. Just know there is no - numbers for CC.

FC+CC=TC You want your CC to be 0.5 or LESS which would be 0.

Kim:cat:
 
With PH over 8 and a target of 7.5 now and a given TA of 80, math says 23 oz of MA... I would start there and see where it stands... I generally wait about an hour before testing after adding MA..I like to get a good stir in the pool. 30 min will suffice if you cant wait an hour
 
that is interesting as I have been keeping the water level lower than normal as the pool is in sun for about 12 hours a day I guess I am raising it back to normal now and will begin anew in the morning. With my testing. Would you recommend getting the Taylor kit for testing for higher chlorine?

If pH is still 8 what do you think the initial dose of MA should be 4 cups and then test, then 2 cups, etc. or should i use poolmath to bring it down to 7.2?


You have been a big help I do appreciate it.
 
If you have a K-2005, you can complete your tests by buying a FAS/DPD kit. (We recommend the one linked here: TFTestkits.net ). The 2005 pretty much has all of the rest of the tests - the reagent bottles are simply smaller than the other two kits. You can always buy more reagents as needed at the site I linked. :)
 
If you have a K-2005, you can complete your tests by buying a FAS/DPD kit. (We recommend the one linked here: TFTestkits.net ). The 2005 pretty much has all of the rest of the tests - the reagent bottles are simply smaller than the other two kits. You can always buy more reagents as needed at the site I linked. :)

Thank you. I went for the Taylor K-1515-A. I just want to be sure of my chlorine level.
 
that is interesting as I have been keeping the water level lower than normal as the pool is in sun for about 12 hours a day I guess I am raising it back to normal now and will begin anew in the morning. With my testing. Would you recommend getting the Taylor kit for testing for higher chlorine?

If pH is still 8 what do you think the initial dose of MA should be 4 cups and then test, then 2 cups, etc. or should i use poolmath to bring it down to 7.2?


You have been a big help I do appreciate it.

PH reading of 8 is the upper limit of what the test can show you. So your PH could actually be much higher. Use pool math with 8 as your starting point and enter your target to get MA dose. Let that mix 30 mins or so and test again. If you are far above 8 this may be a dose and repeat process to get in range.
 

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PH reading of 8 is the upper limit of what the test can show you. So your PH could actually be much higher. Use pool math with 8 as your starting point and enter your target to get MA dose. Let that mix 30 mins or so and test again. If you are far above 8 this may be a dose and repeat process to get in range.

I am headed to 7.2 with 54oz MA. Will wait1 hour then test again. If still at 8 will repeat 54oz.

Much appreciated.
 
Good Morning,

I did add water to the line pool installer said for proper operation of skimmer/pump/filter if i read correctly i added 390 gals.

Ran the Chemistry today

FC 3
Cc 0
Total Chlorine 3
CYA 42
PH 8.0
TA 90

added 48oz MA let run for 30 mins. will test pH if still high I will add 8oz repeat.
 
For measuring pH, as already stated the R-0004 test alone is not accurate above 8.0. However, your K-2005 kit has the acid demand drops (R-0005). Read the manual on how to use it. A brief explanation is that the R-0005 reagent is sulfuric acid (nasty stuff) that will lower the sample pH. Counting the drops will give you the exact amount of acid to adjust your pH to the correct level.
 
Ok, seems to be good now:

pH 7.4

T Alkalinity 80

So question is how to keep it @ 7.2 - 7.4?

If memory serves adding MA reduces TA. If true then I need to test TA then pH then correct TA down a little then add MA and retest correct?

Thanks,

- - - Updated - - -

Thanks for the info. I have gotten the pH to 7.4 not sure I need to go to 7.2.

T. Alkalinity is 80 down from 90
 
MA lowers PH and TA. They kind of work hand in hand. Here is where good record keeping will come in hand......You are going to have to play around with your TA and find where your PH likes it. When you find your pool's TA your PH will stabilize. Each pool is different. Some like a TA of __ and some like it at __. Let your PH tell you where YOUR TA should be. It will take some tweaking but well worth it when everything levels out and stays that way.

Kim:cat:
 
MA lowers PH and TA. They kind of work hand in hand. Here is where good record keeping will come in hand......You are going to have to play around with your TA and find where your PH likes it. When you find your pool's TA your PH will stabilize. Each pool is different. Some like a TA of __ and some like it at __. Let your PH tell you where YOUR TA should be. It will take some tweaking but well worth it when everything levels out and stays that way.

Kim:cat:

this mornings chemestry:

FC 3
TC 3
CYA 42
PH 7.8
TA 80
CH not tested i guess this is Calcium Hardness which i do not test as liner is vinyl.

Added 10.6 oz MA

Here's my question. In you post you said I need to figure where my TA needs to be and pH will be happy. I'm summering. So i take this to mean that if my pH is 7.5 - 7.4 i would measure TA and keep TA at that amount correct? Which could mean my TA would be between 70 - 80 correct? This gives me a headache but I will get this chemistry thing down one way or the other.
 
Your PH will tell you if it likes the TA level. When your PH is stable for a few days at a time you will know it is happy with your TA level.

If your PH keeps jumping up in a day or two it is not happy with your TA level. Try lowering your TA and see what your PH does. You are looking for a stable PH over the course of a few days. Just remember that lots of splashing, heavy rain, water falls, etc will push the PH up and take that into account as well.

Our recommended levels are just suggestions of the average that most pools like. SOME pools will like higher or lower TA than the average pool. That is where your logs of your test results will come in handy for you while you learn your pool.

I am sorry to be so vague but there is really no set level for every pool. They are all different just like we are.

Kim:cat:
 
Your PH will tell you if it likes the TA level. When your PH is stable for a few days at a time you will know it is happy with your TA level.

If your PH keeps jumping up in a day or two it is not happy with your TA level. Try lowering your TA and see what your PH does. You are looking for a stable PH over the course of a few days. Just remember that lots of splashing, heavy rain, water falls, etc will push the PH up and take that into account as well.

Our recommended levels are just suggestions of the average that most pools like. SOME pools will like higher or lower TA than the average pool. That is where your logs of your test results will come in handy for you while you learn your pool.

I am sorry to be so vague but there is really no set level for every pool. They are all different just like we are.

Kim:cat:

Well I appreciate everything you have told me and every bit helps.

the pool has only been installed for a year this coming august and I used to take water to the installer for testing, they were honest about what i needed to do but they closed their retail store and now have a service that will come out and test and leave chemicals for me to add according to their tests not sure how they test taylor kit or ?(not sure what) for $285 a year ($23.75 per month). So I am trying to keep the chemistry myself. I am also thinking about using the TFP Water Balance for SWGs system. This is a little frightening as it wants me to raise FC to 4-6, my pH is fine at 7.6, TA is fine 70 and CYA from 42 to 70-80. I do not know if anyone on TFP successfully using this system.

Anyway thank again have a great wee.

Bill
 

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