Scale, I need help please

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Hi Brian, yes his tap water had a high TA and CH and therefore filling the pool with that water was the same as doing a Bicarb startup.
His current pool water is not aggressive enough to be etching or "leaching" calcium out of the plaster. Even if so, the removed calcium would not precipitate out in this manner.

Salt units can have their own isolated chemistry within the cell, and often (but not always) precipitate calcium out of solution even when the CSI is slightly negative.
Your concern regarding calcium chloride addition to the plaster mix can be an issue and a problem in some situations as you suggested, but in this case, with the plaster remaining smooth and dark, I rule out that factor. I think his plaster finish is good.
 
I have the same situation, the scale is generated on the blades in the swg, when it reverces polatity to clean all the scale gets blown into the pool. It almost seems like the swg should be before the filter, but I think there is a reason they dont do that. My csi is always negative and it still happens, less CH is good but with a plaster pool you still need approx 250 ppm. My CH is 400. The higher percentage of time your swg is on the more you will get, my cleaner gets most but there is still some floating around. Dont know how some people dont seem to have this occur.
 
bobby1017 said:
The higher percentage of time your swg is on the more you will get,
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So you're saying what Hayward told me it will not work? They said to run it longer at a lower percentage. I will soon be verifying the power and duration and also maybe attach a video with the scale.



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OK, my SWG is at 60% for about eight hours and 15 minutes a day. So it is long enough to complete the cycle. I Will try to attach a video of the scale as I put acid on it. You will see it immediately disappears. Also when I can manage to get a piece on my finger if I touch it it just instantly dissolves very very soft.
https://vimeo.com/173107624https://vimeo.com/173107694


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basod said:
Assuming you have an aluminum pole for your skimmer&vacuum? Leave it setting in the pool with the vacuum head on for a day and report back if there is soft white nodules on the pole.
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I do and I will. If I put it in tonight /now will tomorrow morning be soon enough or does it need 24 hours? Just attach the head, no need to attach a hose or anything else correct? Does it matter deep or shallow end? Shallow end is where the issue is primarily.


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Overnight should work if you see nodules that is calcium depositing on the aluminum acting as an annode.
same thing is happening inside your SWG but when polarity swaps the calcium is broken free from the plates.
If you tie a sock over the returns in the shallow end the calcium will be caught but probably redissolved from the pump flow.
 
Lykly said:
So you're saying what Hayward told me it will not work? They said to run it longer at a lower percentage. I will soon be verifying the power and duration and also maybe attach a video with the scale.



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What I meant was when mine is set to 20% during the off season months I dont see much, but during the summer its at 60% / 70% and I get a lot more flakes. During the summer mine runs for about 9 hrs per day, mostly so the solar can be on. My stament was not in reference to the Hayward statment, it does make sense that running longer at a lower percentage may help.

Fyi I have the sacrificial anode plumbed in and the anode is very clean.
 
I had some flakes out of the nearest return a few years ago when I also had scale build up at the tile line. Negative CSI ever since has stopped both issues. I'm not sure how often the Pentair SWG reverses polarity. It seems like it is adjustable and I set it for most often. I also tend to run run my SWG longer at lower percentage. I think I'm running 10 hours right now.

What about a build up of scale in the return plumbing and the negative CSI is releasing it?
 

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pooldv said:
What about a build up of scale in the return plumbing and the negative CSI is releasing it?
Click to expand...


That's why I suggested the aluminum pole test. It works better if the water isn't circulating. Not sure if it would be effective on a larger scale for CH reduction. The scale being soft and easily dissolved is calcium precipitate from the swg unlikely from the pipes
 
There are a lot of flakes, but maybe if I back the picture off it'll put it more into perspective. You can see the aluminum pole placed in the water, you can use it as a reference. Pretty much all the scale is in this area, I think the returns in the wading pool have the most flowand least pressure so probably the path of least resistance?

As soon as my new pool Blaster gets enough charge I'm sucking those suckers up!

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bdavis466 said:
I've never seen a single flake.... Ever. Is the Hayward that different?

If not then borates may make a world of difference
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I have never added borates, you think that would help? I am anal about keeping the pool spotless so I am ready to try anything.


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basod said:
That's why I suggested the aluminum pole test. It works better if the water isn't circulating. Not sure if it would be effective on a larger scale for CH reduction. The scale being soft and easily dissolved is calcium precipitate from the swg unlikely from the pipes
Click to expand...

I keep my variable speed running 24 hours a day, it just runs slower when the SWG is not running. Is that a problem? I have it run around 2100 RPM when SWG is on but then it drops to around 1100 for the rest of the time. The SWG is on a separate timer. Should I shut everything down whilethat pole is in there?


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OK I have it like this and I will shut the pump down.
dfc8beb36d428ab142489a55a1819c92.jpg



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needsajet said:
Just a thought... since it's happening every two days... you could shut off the new SWC and go back to chlorinating liquid for a week. That test might help isolate the cause.
Click to expand...

Good idea, next time I get it all cleaned up I may try that.


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