No power to control panel - Aqualink RS

Jump to latest Follow Reply
W

wweissborn

0
Apr 16, 2015
41
Rosenberg/TX
Late yesterday evening, I discovered that I have no power to my control panel. The front of the panel says "Aqualink RS" and inside there are a number of buttons but no model number (that I can find). Knowing what I would find, I tried the web-page/phone-app to see if I could connect to the remote. Of course I was not able to because there was no power.

This morning I went to the breaker box and all breakers are in the "on" position, i.e., not tripped. I then manual tripped the breakers marked "pool motors" (epump and water-fall pump). Checked the control box and still no power. The GFI below the control box works, i.e., there is power, and the test-button trips the breaker.

So before I starting disassembling the breaker-box and the control-box, I thought I'd check with the hive-mind here. Has anyone else run into this or have any ideas as to where to start looking? It's #$%@#^@ hot here in the Houston area and don't want to be out in the sun anymore than I have to.

Thanks

Bill W.
 
MORE info: Turns out I do have A/C to the panel (just gotta make sure you are checking the correct side of the relays). Took the front panel off to get to the transformer. Transformer (model TU62132F0) in the back has 120v going in and only 24v on one yellow wire. So I'm figuring that is my problem.

NOW, the issue is that an OEM replacement is almost $200!!! Gotta wonder 2 things:
1) Since I have 24v from one wire, can I just put a jumper from that wire to the terminal with no voltage?
2) There are a lot of MUCH less expensive transformers that appear to have the same specs. Any reason not to use one of those? Everything is out of warranty so no need to worry about that.

Bill W
 
Did you check the fuse on the back of the board? It's small and easily overlooked. Should be able to get it at Radio Shack, just make sure the replacement is a "fast blow".

Also on the transformer I believe you only get 24v out of it with both multi-meter leads on the yellow wires, it's been a while but I think I remember this was the case.
 
I'd be careful changing transformers for something not OEM. Pool and spa rated transformers have "divorced windings" meaning there is no way for 120vt current to contact the 24vt side. Most typical transformers do not include this feature in the design meaning they can fail and send 120vt down the low voltage wire. No doubt the OEM ones are price gouging set by the mfg. but make sure you get and exact equivelent or your risking your life.

Reading your post further it sounds like the aqualink transformer not aquapure one I was thinking of. Not sure those require a pool and spa rared transformer but worth checking!
 
Well, went to start up the pool after install of new aquapure system and guess what? No lights on the controller ��. Confirmed that the transformer died on mine last night as well. Did some research and the transformer is wet class 3 rated so likely has divorced windings. Tried to find an equivelent but only yhe jandy version has the proper rating. Looks a little different than the one i have now (10 years old). At $130 a pop, they are't giving these away. If you find an equivelent one let me know, the one in my panel is 120vt primary 24vt 60 va (24vt w/ 2.5 amp capacity is equivelent) let me know.
 
As I have found out, the main reason these transformers are so expensive is the 2.5A output. An equivalent output transformer, 60VA or higher, is almost $100. While I did end up finding a transformer rated 60VA, Class2, Class 3, it was almost as expensive as the official Jandy Replacement. So I bit the bullet and ordered a new transformer from here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/110693876942?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

He was the least expensive I could find and he did ship as soon as the PayPal payment hit. I got it today (I only live 100 miles or so from where he is located).

Unfortunately, I still have no power to the panel. I have checked the fuse, checked the new transformer output (25.2volts) and even replaced the 2032 batter on the circuit board. I've pressed the reset button so many times I think I have actually punctured the little rubber seal over it.

I'm now in the queue at Jandy for them to call me back. I don't hold out much hope and would really like to figure out a way to bypass the panel altogether just to get the filter-pump working.

<RANT ON>
This pool is around 3 years old. We bought the house just over a year ago and we have had nothing but problems with any part that has JANDY written on it. LED lighting, starting condensers, filters, and now the power-panel. IF anyone were to ask me what company I would recommend for pool equipment, I would tell them to RUN, RUN, RUN away from Jandy--assuming there is another choice.

<RANT OFF> (although I don't feel any better unfortunately.)
 
Same issue with mine. Replaced transformer and still no lights or actions. One chip on the board U3 slot gets very hot which as a stepdown transformer. See my other post for pictures. I found the original engineer that designed the boards runs a side business repairing the boards for $150 flat price. A new board is $330. For that price Id drop another couple hundred and get an iaqualink 2.0 kit which includes the suspect board. Rather than do that, I sent mine off today for the $150 fix. Here is the link to the website:

http://www.bpelectronics.com
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
I was just getting ready to post that very same link!!!

Jandy finally called me back this evening (around 20:00 CDT believe it or not) and after talking with the gent on the other end I get asked two questions:
1) How old is the panel (just under 3 yrs)? To which he mumbled under his breath, "yeah, that's about right." :evil:
2) Am I licensed pool professional? (nope) To which he responded, "Well, that's too bad because you are going to need a new board and if you install it instead of a licensed pool professional, then you automatically void the warranty." :mad::mad: "Oh, and I can't tell you anything about the installation procedure. Sorry."

So like Rossterman above, I'm going to send in my board, get it repaired and then start saving my Benjamins to buy some other company's controller because I'm done with Jandy/Zodiac or whatever these guys are called this week.

I just wished I could find out if I can get away with, temporarily, energizing the filter-pump relay to get the water moving. It will be almost 3 weeks with no filtering (been dumping in the bleach and muriatic acid) by the time this thing gets fixed. Assuming of course, the CPU board is ok.
 
Move the 2 power leads from the left side of the relay and connect them with the feed wires on the right side of the relay and you can use the breaker to control the pump. This just bypasses the relay. Keep colors together (e.g. Reds together on on terminal and black together on the other. Make sure everything is deenergized and if you arent famaliar with electrical connections have an electician do it. Did this time mine so I have circulation.

there is also a small tab that portrudes on the bottom that closes the relay. I was able to wedge a small piece of wood in mine to get it running. Eventually i just bypassed the relay.
 
Follow-up on the repaired board: Bob at BPEngineering ( http://www.bpelectronics.com/ ) has been great in helping me troubleshoot this nightmare.

As I have found out, there is apparently more wrong in this power-center than just a bad board. I had plugged everything into the board when it arrived thinking we were good to go. Unfortunately that proved to be wrong. As soon as I applied power, the fuse blew. So after talking with Bob, I unplugged everything on the board, replaced the fuse, powered up and now I have lights on the board. Bob suggested that I start plugging in components one-by-one to see what blew the fuse. So I did and to make a long, long story short, it would appear I have at least one bad power relay and possibly one or two bad JVA (Jandy Valve Assembly).

I say appears with regards to the relay because if I run anything other than the filter-pump alone, the fuse on the board blows. If I plug in either JVA, the fuse on the board blows.

Bob told me to test the relays by powering everything down and measuring the resistance at the 24vDC side. Should be 300ohms. Well, the filter relay (relay #1) measures 323, relay #2 measures 323, relay #3 measures 317 and relay #4 measures 320. The Jandy docs say the relay should measure 300. Anything less than 300 indicates a bad relay. So I am really confused now. OH, and Bob said that it is possible that the resistance could change with each test measurement.

Of course the model number of the relay is on the side of the blasted thing so I will have to pull one out just to see what I need to replace.

I hate this thing.
 
Last edited:
My transformer went out too so I stumbled upon this valuable thread (and registered for the site). I've ordered a new transformer on e-bay but am leaving on vacation for 8 days so I need some circulation while I'm gone. If I can get power to my variable speed pump I figured I could use the built in pump timer to cycle the pump on and off each day. I tried to bypass the control relay as you did but the wires are not color coded. I see the two leads coming in from the breaker going to the two posts on the left side but don't know which posts on the right to connect them to. It's AC so does it make a difference? If it does make a difference, do I jumper the outside left lead to the inside right and the inside lift lead to the outside right? Or do I jumper outside to outside and inside to inside? If you can help, thanks!
 
Forget my last post about which wires to move. I now realize that the small tab manual bypass avoids having to mess with wires. I got it working and have set up the timer on my pump to turn it on and off while I'm on vacation. Never would have notice the tab on my own. Thanks, vacation saved.
 
After a large windstorm my year 2000 Jandy Aqualink RS8 (Blue Haven BH6100) blew a fuse and quit working. A check of the transformer showed that it was bad. (Aqualink RS8 transformer stock # R0466400 120volt) After installing the new transformer I found that it blew the fuse and was flucuating in power from 24 volts to 2 volts. I then returned the transformer and got a new one that worked. Unfortunately the board still blew fuses. I sent in the board and plastic bezel to Bob at BP enginering and had the board gone through for $150. His turnaround was great two days! Once I got the board back and installed it immediately blew the fuse. After installing a new fuse and removing all the relays as Bob from BP Engineering a previous post suggested, I found the Jandy Valve for the pool pump filter wires were frayed and shorting out. After installing another fuse and repairing the wiring the pool now works perfectly!

My suggesting for troubleshooting in the future with a blown fuse is to start with removing all the relays to start with and if the board lights up it's not the board. I now have plenty of Jandy factory fuses from tcpoolequipment #6658 Aqualink PCB generic 3.15 amp fuse. TC Pool Equipment is also very responsive and had my fuses to me in 2 days with regular shipping. I found jandy.com has a complete exploded diagram with all the parts and stock numbers which proved to be very helpful.

I want to thank all of the previous posters for their suggestions as I am not a pool technician just a homeowner trying to learn how to keep this thing going.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply