Liner staining Possible Mustard Algae

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J

jackgit

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Jun 5, 2016
14
Freehold New Jersey
I just recently join the board after reading great advice I just repaired my PCB Aquarite SWG delimiter with an excellent thread !!
I have a 9 year old vinyl line in ground Foxx pool with DE & a SWG system, 28k Gal located in central NJ. The property is covered by large oak trees.

This is my first major problem so far (See attached pic) I have brown stains on the sides & floor
The stains can be removed with a brush & when removed it looks like I’m scraping sand off the liner.

Pool store states is mustard Algae. With the Salt system the water is balanced & I usualy do not add algaecide.
I did the Vitamin C test on a small & the stain removed . Instruction are to reduce the PH ad CYA & 2 bags of Burnout73
Then I should to add 43 OZ of Saltscapes Algae remover

Thoughts, comments IS this the correct diag?

Readings from a Bio guard pool store test system:

TDS 4500
Cya 29
Tot CL 2.2
Free CL 1.6
PH 7.8
Tot Alk 111
Tot Hardness 187
Salt 3100
Copper 0.6
 

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If you check out Pool School starting with the ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry and get yourself a home test kit, you can begin to take care of your pool.

Pool store testing is generally not worth the paper it's printed on. A quality, home test kit with Taylor reagents such as the TF-100 from tftestkits.net or K-2006 is needed to properly maintain your pool. Home testing is more accurate, more convenient and doesn't come with a hard sell for chemicals that generally accompanies pool store results. TFP method are more about saving you money by only adding what your pool actually needs.

Algaecide does not kill algae. It's a terrible name for the product. It can help prevent algae if chlorine levels drop too low for a short period, but it's worthless for eliminating algae that has started growing already. The answer is always more chlorine. In the form of bleach (aka liquid shock), is the best in conjunction with proper testing and sticking with the SLAM process. Link in my signature.

Mustard algae does exist, but most of the time, it's a scary term thrown about by pool stores to make you think it's a difficult problem that must be solved by lots of their products and lots of your money. The answer is still bleach and proper testing.
 
jackgit. You stated you can brush it off, but also stated that the Vitamin C test lifted it. That's a little contradictory as explained in my first reply. I would hold off on the 43 OZ of Saltscapes Algae remover altogether. No matter what the stain is you do need to get that FC level up and possibly eliminate the CC (I say "possibly" because Dotty's computer test shows .60 CC - Eh? may or may not be accurate). It makes more sense, economically speaking to get that FC raised with bleach than the fancy bag of Burnout73 and no extra additives.

You probably live w/in 5 miles of me. PM me if you want some help this weekend. I know that is a bizarre invite from some nameless guy on a public forum. But I've been at this for a long time and always willing to lend a hand.
 
Good decision! Your water doesn't look bad, but not TFP great. The SLAM procedure will assure that your pool is algae-free. In the process, if the stains are organic based, such as from residual algae, those will fade/disappear as well. If the stains persist after you've cleared any possibility of algae, then they are likely metals and we can guide you through some approaches to remove those.

Are you on city water or private well water? Kind of confused by your signature. Municipal water will nearly always have very low metals content so the likelihood of metals stains for a pool filled with city water is very low. That is unless pool chemicals containing metals have been used under direction of the pool store. Products containing metals are not recommended by TFP because they can cause staining and metals are not easy to eliminate from a pool.

Once you have your test kit, post a full set of results and we'll help you out. While your waiting for it to arrive, you can keep the SWG running to try to keep the pool from getting any worse.
 
I use city water from FHTWP they source the water from numerous wells.
Test kit on order........... no more Pool store tests I turned off the SWG on Sunday to lower the FC & CL levels as per the stain out directions as a test removed the stains.
This was prior to the pool store mustard discovery Thinking of throwing all this in the pool tonight anyway as nothing is returnable. Once the kit arrives I'll look injto the slam method.
Mike M I'll take you up on your offer once I get this going & test kit delivered.
Humm & I been using pool store tests since 2001....
 
The kit arrived however prior to the kit arriving I added 1.5 ilb of Vit C and 43 OZ of Saltscapes Algae remover It did lighten up the stains however the pool is now partially cloudy.
Because I lowered the CL level for the stain remover to work.

I picked up 6 gallons at Walmart of f CL Bleach

Last night I put 2 LBS of Shock & moved the SWG to Super chlorinate.
Reading from the K00-6 this morning 11:00 AM
FCL .8
Combined 0
PH 7.2
ALK 100
CYA 80
So my shock level should be 31 How many gallon of bleach do I add?
I'll do the OCLT test tonight
 
Oclt test was a loss of .03
i added 2 gallons to see how much cl would go up at 67 drops in the 25 mil I have 1.54 at the his rate I'll need
To go to 31 shock level as per the charts with a cya of 80 I'll need 20 gallons ????? Is it his correct ? I just put a n 4 more and will measure in 1 hr Anyone around to answer?
 

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the difference between morning & night tests I aded 6 gallona of Walmart bleach 2 hours later & went to test at the 10ML level I ran out of R-0871 because I put in 60 drops until clear
The test look straight forward but .5x60 = 30 I guess I slammed correctly ? I just place an order for 16 OZ of R-0871 So I'll go to the pool store until received.
I'll do a full test without CL tonight
 
jackgit said:
What about my last question? using a Taylor k-2006 kit When I ran the test at the 10ml level I had to put 60 drops of R-0871 to turn the sample clear.
Click to expand...

yes. 60 drops in a 10ml sample uses a factor of .50. Which you did. What is the question? If you are asking if you are correctly calculating that as a 30ppm FC, then, yes.

But from what I am gathering you are saying you didn't have enough drops to test again in the morning? Which defeats the purpose of the OCLT test, which I believe prompted JV's last reply.
 
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