I turned pump off for 1 min., now it won't turn back on!!!

[rpriz]

I turned my pump off after it has been running for well over 12hrs so I can clean out the baskets. When toggling the on/off switch to off it felt as if it was loose but it still toggles. Well after about 1 minute I turned it back on and nothing... no hum or noise so I thought the switch went bad and simply broke. I removed the back cover off the motor and inspected that the shaft spun freely which it does, then took the 2 wires to the on/off switch and manual connected the two, plugged it back in and it hummed for 3 seconds before popping the safety fuse on my outlet.

I checked continuity in the thermal cut off and it was good. I checked continuity from the plug thru the connected on/off switch wires, down thru the thermal cut off and right up to where the wires are wound up in the outer past of the motor.

I am at a loss here so any help would be appreciated, thanks

Ron

 

[JohnT]

Sounds like a capacitor. It will be under the back cover or in a "bump" on the motor.

 

[danpik]

Sounds like a capacitor to me too. One of the electrical pro's here will be along shortly to verify this.

 

[rpriz]

I don't see a capacitor on this model, just the thermal cutoff

 

[zea3]

What brand and model pump do you have? Sometimes the capacitor is behind the back cover.

 

[rpriz]

Hayward Power-Flo Matrix 1.5 hp

Model: SP1593FP
ID: 21120605010089039

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Motor label says: A.O. Smith, Century Pool & Spa Motor, 1081 Pool Pump Duty, PART 7-193391-02, SERIAL CB04-21

 

[zea3]

OK this is an above ground pool pump and has a centrifugal switch instead of a start capacitor. The shaft is not frozen as you have stated. You could try replacing the switch and see if that works.

 

[rpriz]

the switch around the shaft that has springs on it?

 

[zea3]

The on/off switch for the power.

 

[rpriz]

whats the difference if I change the on/off switch or temporarily connect the two wires to a permanent connection on for testing purposes? It still doesn't work when plugged in. Is it possible that the "centrifugal switch" is stuck open therefore not allowing the start up contact to connect? I did not inspect the centrifugal switch and maybe should do that next??? But lets say that is the issue, where is the hum coming from just before popping the breaker... Is the secondary speed contact always making contact or only when spun and centrifugal switch is activated?

 

[mas985]

OK this is an above ground pool pump and has a centrifugal switch instead of a start capacitor.

Are you sure about that? Generally, you don't have a centrifugal switch without a capacitor. The switch is what removes the start capacitor from the circuit after startup.

 

[rpriz]

this image shows similar to what I see under the back cover of my motor as far as the spring switch

 

[mas985]

Is that a picture of your motor? Can you back up and get the entire back end including the wiring?

They may be using a resistor start. Is there anything that looks like a high power resistor:

High power resistors - Google Search

 

[zea3]

Are you sure about that? Generally, you don't have a centrifugal switch without a capacitor. The switch is what removes the start capacitor from the circuit after startup.

I got the information from Hayward. If there is a capacitor they don't list it as a serviceable part.

 

[mas985]

Ok, then it is probably a resistive start which is not very common. Sometimes they use external resistors and sometimes they use thinner starter windings for resistance. If it is an external resistor, that could be replaced if it failed. If not and the starter winding failed, then you would need a new motor.

 

[rpriz]

so if I understand you correctly, my motor may have a starter winding and a running winding?

 

[mas985]

All single phase motors (used in pool pumps) have a starter winding and a main winding. The difference is how they use the starter winding. For most pool pump motors, they use a capacitor for starting and sometimes for running as well.

Based on the above description, it sounds like your motor uses a resistive start and most likely a starter winding resistive start.

 

[rpriz]

so I spun the motor at HiSpeed with my drill and the plugged it in while taking the drill away. Motor spun up to full RPM, I heard the centrifugal switch activate also and the motor stayed running until I unplugged it. As the motor shut down and rpm dropped, I heard the centrifugal switch deactivate. So it appears that what ever is starting my motor is SHOT & what ever is continuously running my motor is GOOD... so is this starter mechanism repairable at all??? I think I read a few posts where they say its not. Anyone confirm this??

Ron

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oh he is a pic of the motor opened..

 

[mas985]

Check the switch contacts for any corrosion and continuity. If that still doesn't work then I don't think it is repairable. The starter winding is probably shot and that is not replaceable.

 

[rpriz]

when you say "Switch" do you mean the on/off switch? or the contact switch (which I did run some sand paper between)?

On/Off switch was removed from the equation and hardwired to an always ON position.