Plumbing Question

jk7228

0
Jun 3, 2012
97
Austin, TX
Our PB gave me the following specs for our plumbing. I know nothing about this stuff so if anyone sees anything I should be concerned about, please let me know.

Returns: 1.5" schedule 40 PVC
Pool Main Drains: 2" schedule 40 PVC
Skimmers: 2" schedule 40 PVC
Spa Main Drains: 3" schedule 40 PVC
Spa Returns: 2.5" schedule 40 PVC
 
It's probably 2 return lines to the pool, each one being teed off before they enter the pool to give you a total of four incoming ports.

I take it the spa is attached/spillover? You probably will have some flex hose in there somewhere too. Personally I hate the stuff and wish they would use rigid Sch 40 throughout, but I understand the logistics of why they choose not to.

Got any pics or is this all preliminary plan work to a future build?
 
Sounds good. Lastly, how do you intend to clean the pool, vacuum (suction or pressure side) or robot? A suction side cleaner's hose is usually tied into one of the skimmers, sometimes folks install a dedicated vacuum line so they don't have to use the skimmer. A pressure side cleaner generally uses one of the returns or a dedicated return and booster pump to power the vac.

Most people would recommend a robot vacuum, which only requires a power source and is completely self contained. It also requires no plumbing changes or dedicated lines. Downside is they are a little expensive, but not too much more than a pressure side and booster pump.

As to your spa plumbing, someone with more knowledge will chime in. While we are at it, what pump is he specifying; xx HP, xx SF (service factor) & type; single speed, dual speed or variable speed?
 
It is all preliminary - I am getting 4 quotes and then we will pick the builder. I liked this guy the best so far, but I wanted to make sure the plumbing was sufficient.

The spa is attached with a spillover.

- - - Updated - - -

The pump is the Pentair 3HP Variable Speed Pump. We will be using a robot to clean the pool (KK Prowler 820).
 
I would say more than sufficient and is likely a very good setup. Bare bones would be only one skimmer and 2 returns for the pool. Just a note - lots of pools are now built without main drains so don't let that throw you off. They are nice for draining the pool when its necessary but that is rare. Some builders don't like them since leaks are difficult and expensive to get to. I have one so I like them, but I wouldn't add one if I didn't.
 
Sufficiency-wise, it looks great. If you are looking for advice, ask your builder about plumbing your main drains with a 3-way valve and a cross-over pipe to the return side allowing you to use your main drains as a return. I don't know if heaters are commonplace in TX, but this option is nice when heating a pool because you can heat from the "bottom - up". You will lose less heat to surface loss. There are other advantages to having this option as well.

I responded to a thread somewhere here on this topic. If you search under my user name and "deep heat" you will find my post where I explain how this is plumbed along with a YouTube video of my plumbing showing how it is constructed.

I would also ask him to use as little flex hose as possible. i.e. NONE. They are prone to failure and when that happens under a patio, it's not fun to fix.
 
Personally I would like to see all plumbing home ran with isolation valves, this makes finding and isolating underground plumbing leaks much easier if they ever occur, it also lets you postpone such repair into the off season should they happen. This may add $100-$200 to the overall price, but would be worth 10x that if you have a leak mid swim season, as you could just turn off a valve and screw a cap onto the one leaking return line and be done with it until you get around to doing a permanent repair.
 
Personally I would like to see all plumbing home ran with isolation valves,

This is such great advice. When you have the versatility to control your water flow from every possible suction and return line, it creates so many advantages. Not just in case of a leak, but just to have that control. If you get a heater, have your guy plumb in a bypass line too. There may be times when you either accidentally or intentionally wish to drop your pH. In that case you don't want acidic water running through the copper heater lines.

Also, here's the post of my "deep heat" setup if you want to inquire with your builder about it.

heating options
 

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1.5 inch returns are ok if you stay under about a 1.5 HP pump, speaking of pump you want either a 2 speed pump or a variable speed pump such as the Hayward Maxflo VS, not a single speed pump which are electricity hogs.
 
I'm sure your township/district will require plans to be submitted to the building code department, followed by an inspection to be done of the work. (At least that's the case in Jersey). Of course there are shady contractors out there that will try and cut corners. But if you have a reputable PB, I would think he is doing things according to code. If you have concerns, ask him. Have him explain the pros and cons of 1.5" vs 2". I doubt it's a cost thing. An in ground pool is a substantial investment. Running a bit of 1.5" line over 2" line is insignificant to the overall cost. Once he gives you an explanation if you still want confirmation, get on the phone with your township building department and run it by them.
 
Thanks to everyone who responded. We ended up going with a different builder who listed the following for his plumbing specs.

2HP Variable Speed Pump
Isolation valves and NO flex hose used
Schedule 40 PVC 2.5" suction lines with split main drains
Schedule 40 PVC 2" return lines (3)
Schedule 40 PVC 2.5" indepenent spa jet plumbing with 5 jets (3 aim flow and 2 hydrotheraputic massage)
High performance automatic dual port skimmer
 
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