Forgive me for the noobness

Jun 20, 2016
26
Senoia, Ga
Im in Middle Ga, and getting a 21' x52" Doughboy above ground this Thursday. I think the water volume is ~9500 gallons.

Of course they are giving us a "starter pack" of chemicals. I think its some sort of frog system. Either way, I will fill it off a community well, which I am told by the company that maintains it that it will fill it, though it may take a day or so, and that they have to maintain the water like a city supply. I guess that means treating it to some extent.

I have read through the pool school and have had a intex before with the SWG and it worked good but began to rust after 3 years.

This is my first hard side pool with a sand filter.

My questions are after reading over a few threads here and there on chemicals, etc.

1. Which chemicals can be had non traditionally, like use Clorox for the chlorine levels, and baking soda for PH? Sort of a question around do I have to buy the pool store this or that?

2. Should I even put the free stuff from the pool company in the water?

3. Their statement was to put all of that in, wait 72 hrs and bring them a sample and they will get me set up.

My pool will be in the sun probably ~10 hrs a day.

Is there a list for mandatories after the initial fill..?
 
Check that fill water for iron content. They should supply you a report and if the iron approaches .3 ppm, you have some soul searching to do. Iron will be a continual forever problem if it is in your fill water and is your source of initial fill.

It can be dealt with but it requires awareness and some money to keep it at bay.

After that decision, I would read "The ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" up in Pool School. That'll answer many of your questions above.
 
1. You have no need to ever step foot in a pool store. All the chemicals we use are available at a grocery store, WalMart or Lowes/Home Depot

2. No.

3. No. See 1.

First thing is to order a test kit now so that when your water is filled you can start on the right foot. TF-100 is your best bet, link in sig. Even if you order today, it won't arrive by Thursday, so add 1/4 gallon of bleach each day until it arrives. Pool school has lots for you to start reading, Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry is a good start.

Questions are good, never hesitate to ask!

edit: weirdness
 
Is stabilizer only available at a store or is there something generic that can be had elsewhere?


Well co. called back and stated that the limit for copper is 1300, I am assuming these are ppm numbers, but that 3 sample homes returned a 0, 45 and a 25.

The lead limit is 15 (ppm?) and returned a 2.5

They say there system has no lead pipes at all. Iron is not tested.

Well company samples individual homes, the state samples the source.
 
I ended up backwashing all of my stabilizer out (did not know about the sock method or the dissolve time back then). Instead of buying more stabilizer, I used the big bucket of pucks (which contains CYA) I bought when I bought the pool. By the time I was out of pucks, my CYA was close to where I wanted it.
 
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CYA first - hang ~2 lbs in a sock in front of the return. This will give you roughly 30 ppm of CYA. You can get CYA aka stabilizer/conditioner at Wal-Mart, Lowes, etc. Once it's hanging add 84 oz of 8.25% bleach to get you to ~6 ppm FC.

You should buy something to at least test pH and dose accordingly, preferably a TF-100. PH should be within range, but you never know. After that it is a guessing game without a test kit. Mixing pool store and TFP is difficult at best.
 
Sorry I haven't posted back. Everythings been great. PH was low, 2 boxes of borax got it where it needed to be. I got the CYA right and keep the FC level where it needs to be. The picture here is one from when it was filled , and the next picture was the very next day after running the filter all night. Thanks!pool.jpg
 

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