Odd TA test result...

[dickeystorm]

Hi All,

I opened my pool today and ran the first round of tests. This was another year of failed pool cover.
A branch poked a hole in the cover which allowed the 20+ cubic feet of leaves to make a lovely tea out of the water. The water is clear but dark. All that said, when running the TA test the instructions state the sample should turn green after adding the dye. Mine turned red immediately. I interpret this to mean my TA is essentially 0. Is this correct.

FC 0
CC .5
pH 7
TA 0?
CH 120
CYA 0
Borates 15
Salt 1400

temp ~80F

 

[needsajet]

Here's the full instructions which may be helpful Pool School - Total Alkalinity

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testing instructions, that is

 

[pooldv]

It is impossible to have PH 7 and TA 0.

 

[needsajet]

There are some pointers in the extended testing instructions at the bottom of the page I linked.

 

[dickeystorm]

It is impossible to have PH 7 and TA 0.

I put 7 because that is as low as my test vial goes. The color suggested it was lower but I don't know how much lower. I'll be attempting to raise the pH tomorrow.

- - - Updated - - -

That was helpful, Thanks.

 

[pooldv]

Ok, the sooner the better. It is important to keep PH between 7.2 and 7.8. PH below 7.0 can dissolve your heater's heat exchanger and put lots of copper in the water and stain the pool.

More here on how to raise PH and other chemicals. Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals

 

[MarianParoo]

Agreed. A pH at (or possibly below) minimum testing range is a "fix it now before anything else" issue.

 

[JamesW]

Zero or negative TA is usually caused by extended use of trichlor. Zero or negative TA means that the ph is below 4.5.

Try the test again. When the sample goes pink, use R-0006 base demand to titrate from red to green. Post how many drops of base demand it takes to turn the sample from pink to green.

Multiply number of drops by 6.3 to see how negative the TA is.

 

[dickeystorm]

Zero or negative TA is usually caused by extended use of trichlor. Zero or negative TA means that the ph is below 4.5.

Try the test again. When the sample goes pink, use R-0006 base demand to titrate from red to green. Post how many drops of base demand it takes to turn the sample from pink to green.

Multiply number of drops by 6.3 to see how negative the TA is.

Thanks to all who have responded. I reran my test this morning with quite different result that I can't explain. The first set was taken right after removing the winter cover. There were a LOT of leaves on the cover and there was a small (2") hole in the cover. The water was clear but dark like tea. The deep end has a green film down low, brushing helped, vacuuming didn't touch it.

My test numbers from last year, 7/15, were CH 150, TA 110

The latest today are:
FC 11.5
CC .5
pH 8
TA 150
CH 150
Temp 84F

So, I don't know what happened with the first set but things appear controllable now.
One not, my pump sprung a couple leaks over the winter which played into the mindset of really low pH. .

Thanks All!

 

[pooldv]

PH at 8 makes a lot more sense with TA at 150. Lower your PH to 7.2 and SLAM, SLAM Process to kill the algae.

After, or during, raise CH up to 250 ppm. More on that here, Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals

 

[dickeystorm]

PH at 8 makes a lot more sense with TA at 150. Lower your PH to 7.2 and SLAM, SLAM Process to kill the algae.

After, or during, raise CH up to 250 ppm. More on that here, Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals

In progress.

 

[needsajet]

I bet you're already on this. I would double-check to be sure the CYA is at zero, and then raise it to 30 PPM for the SLAM.