I have just replaced my pump motor running a Hayward Super II pump. It's a Century 1 HP running on 120V. I adjusted/moved the wires set from factory from 220V to 120V and when testing (after connection), there was a small spark in the timer box and it tripped breaker. I'm sure I was connected properly, but couldn't imagine a new motor being bad. I wanted to switch to 220V, so I decided to replace timer with a new one hoping the timer was the issue. Upon installing the new 220V timer and connecting everything, the pump turned on, but will only run for a few seconds then shuts down. It does not trip the breaker. I tried turning on again and the same issue happened again. I noticed at one point that I heard a click from the motor and was needing some advice. Before the clicking noise, it would not restart, but after the click, it did start (only for a few seconds). Thanks for any help.
New Motor Shutting Down
- Thread starter rjhastings75
- Start date
- May 3, 2007
- 16,833
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Welcome to the forum!
9 times out of 10, the reason is a mismatched motor to the impeller. If the original pump is a full rated pump and the new motor is an up rated motor, the motor will be overloaded.
What is the label HP and service factor of the old & new motors?
9 times out of 10, the reason is a mismatched motor to the impeller. If the original pump is a full rated pump and the new motor is an up rated motor, the motor will be overloaded.
What is the label HP and service factor of the old & new motors?
The clicking noise is probably the thermal overload switch. The motor is quickly getting too hot and the thermal overload is kicking the motor off.
I agree that it’s probably an undersized motor for the impeller.
It could also be a miswired motor. Check voltage and make sure that the motor is wired correctly.
It could also be something about the reassembly that is binding. Try turning the shaft by hand. It should spin easily.
I agree that it’s probably an undersized motor for the impeller.
It could also be a miswired motor. Check voltage and make sure that the motor is wired correctly.
It could also be something about the reassembly that is binding. Try turning the shaft by hand. It should spin easily.
Thanks to you both. I did check voltage again and that was good at the motor. I've looked at the tags on the motors and they both look the same. I did reference the model of the pump and existing motor when ordering. They both appear to be 1 HP, but I've attached the labels for both new and old, in case I'm missing something. I probably should take apart and double check to make sure nothing is binding as well. I did notice the SF is different. The old/original motor has a SF of 1.4 and the new one has a SF of 1.0
- May 3, 2007
- 16,833
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
That's the problem. The old motor has a THP of 1.4 and the new motor is only 1.0. Not the same. You need a full rated 1 Hp or an up rated 1.5 hp.
One more question. Would I be safe to assume that I can get another 1HP motor as long as the SF is 1.4 or higher or would i just be better getting a 1.5HP motor?
- May 3, 2007
- 16,833
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
I agree that the motor is undersized and could be causing the problem. However, I think that the motor would run longer than a few seconds before shutting down. I suspect that there might be a second issue compounding the problem. Possibly a voltage issue or something binding.
Also, the old motor looks like a replacement motor, not the original motor. Do you have a pump model number (should be on the housing)?
Also, the old motor looks like a replacement motor, not the original motor. Do you have a pump model number (should be on the housing)?
I'm certain the voltage/wiring is correct. I've checked again to make sure. You're correct that was a replacement motor. The Pump Info is Model # SP3007X10AZ
That was originally a 1.1 total hp motor. It's probably an ok sized motor. Can you post a picture of the back of the pump wiring?
Have you verified 240 to the motor?
Have you verified 240 to the motor?
- May 3, 2007
- 16,833
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Sometimes the impeller is changed with a motor so you are better off going by the impeller number that is usually stamped on the side of the impeller.
If the impeller part number ends in 07, then it's ok. If it ends in 10, then the impeller is too big for the motor. It would be easier to replace the impeller than the motor.
Note1: Technically, one should never install a motor that has less total h.p than the original, even by a little bit.
Note2: I think that the engineers have a little leeway in how they rate the total hp of a motor. I think that the same motor might be rated 0.98 total hp so that it can be sold in jurisdictions that limit total hp for single speed pumps to less than 1.0 and the same motor might be rated 1.1 total hp for a different pump.
Note1: Technically, one should never install a motor that has less total h.p than the original, even by a little bit.
Note2: I think that the engineers have a little leeway in how they rate the total hp of a motor. I think that the same motor might be rated 0.98 total hp so that it can be sold in jurisdictions that limit total hp for single speed pumps to less than 1.0 and the same motor might be rated 1.1 total hp for a different pump.
I'll check impeller shortly and update. Here's a pic of the wiring. I was able to check voltage at connections when on, but not running and it was 220V.
- - - Updated - - -
The impeller is stamped with SP3007-C
- - - Updated - - -
The impeller is stamped with SP3007-C
The selector has 2 connectors inside. Only the lower one should be on a terminal. The upper one is not on a terminal for 240 volts.
Not sure I'm clear. I have two connectors (120V legs 1 & 2) which are connected to screws. The top leg is also connected to the factory 230V/115V plug. Are you saying that I should not have a leg on that one?
I've attached a pic with the factory selector plug removed and numbered areas, in case I'm looking at the wrong area.
For 120 volts, white goes to L2 and brown goes to A. For 240 volts, white goes to A and brown is not used.
It looks like you had it set to 120. The selector does not always line up correctly with the arrow.
Looking more closely, you definitely had it set to 120.
The white arrow on the selector should line up with the white wire. They put it in the middle, which caused the confusion.
It looks like you had it set to 120. The selector does not always line up correctly with the arrow.
Looking more closely, you definitely had it set to 120.
The white arrow on the selector should line up with the white wire. They put it in the middle, which caused the confusion.
Thanks. So I need to move factory plug/switch up so white is connected to A and the brown is above, connected to nothing. That makes no sense according to the directions and the tag from the factory stating it was set from factory at 240V, BUT as you said the arrows don't line up no matter what position it is in. Frustrating for me as there were no diagrams/schematics with motor and their resources online weren't great. I just did that and it seems to be working. Thank you very much. I'll get it going and confirm.
Correct, the white wire goes on A and lines up with the 230 arrow. Brown is not connected to anything.