New Pool - Need Help with adjusting water Chemistry

misplacetexan

0
Bronze Supporter
Feb 2, 2016
40
Baytown, Texas
Was at work when PB started pool. Not sure what chemicals he used beside 4 bags of Poolife Turboshock and Two Stabilized Chlorinator Tablets (Trocloro-s-Triazinetrione 93.5% and Copper sulfate pentahydrate 1.5%).:mad: Took readings with Taylor K-2006C today.

Pool is about 17,000 gallons

FC - 0 ppm
CC - 1 ppm
PH - 29 drops of R-006 to bring it up to 7.4 (pool must be pretty acidic)
TA - When I add R-008 it turns pink. It is supposed to turn green.:confused:
CH - 400 ppm
CYA - appears to be 90 ppm

Was scared I was doing the test wrong, that I went and bought some hth 6 way test strips. It match my finding pretty closed.

Please help.
 
pink means your TA is 0 take a look at the extended test kit instructions in Pool School. It sounds like your PB is doing an acid startup so a TA of 0 can be normal I would talk to them about it and see how long they are going to keep it that way. The CYA at 90 is a bit of a disappointment but if you get a lot of rain it should be ok by next season. For now you need to get your FC up to 10 ppm with liquid bleach. How long has the pool been filled, any idea how long the FC has been low with 1 ppm CC you might want to do an OCLT just to be sure you did not get any algae?

Edit... I should also mention you should talk the the PB before you add anything you don't want to void your warranty.
 
Pool has been filled for about 48 hours. I currently have 6 gallons of 10% liquid bleach and 8 pounds of 20 Mule Team Borax. PB stated I could go swimming today. I wanted to test the water before I went to pool. Should I try to bring up the PH to 7.4 or leave it alone. Rain water is no problem here in Texas. I live in the Houston area. For the month of June, according to my rain gauge, I have received about 11+ inches so far.
 
I would not swim with the levels the way they are (acidic). Algae is not a concern since it's a fresh fill but you do want to get your FC up so it does not become a concern. Is it possible the PB did not know that one of his guys started an acid startup process? He may think the pool is still basically tap water and therefore it would have been ok to swim but now it is going through the startup process I think the answer might be different. If you add the borax you would be counteracting what they are doing. I would check first for warranty purposes.

Edit... TFP guideline for startup is not to swim for the breakin period take a look at the startup guide in Pool School how to will give you an idea what to expect
 
misplacetexan said:
Was at work when PB started pool.

Looking at your signature showing a build start of May 2016, I'm assuming the pool was just filled with water within the past day or so and that it is plaster-based (i.e., not vinyl or fiberglass). My response is based on these assumptions.

There is a special start-up procedure that needs to be followed to ensure the plaster-based surface cures properly. The builder should have gone over this with you. If not, and ask them what they recommend. They presumably have some kind of warranty and you don't want to do anything that might void the warranty. If they tell you to do something, you generally should, regardless of what we say, otherwise you risk voiding the warranty. To help you frame up the questions you may want to ask them, I suggest reviewing this article: Start-up New Plaster

As for the testing, I would definitely trust the K-2006C over the test strips. As a resource, we have available these Extended Test Kit Directions.

The POOLIFE TurboShock is a calcium hypochlorite form of chlorine (78% strength). It adds calcium, which plaster-based pools need to a certain extent, but it does not add any CYA. If 4 bags of this product were added (assuming 4 one-pound bags), it should have raised FC by 15-16 ppm. In addition, the 2 trichlor tabs would add another ~ 5-6 ppm (along with ~ 4 ppm CYA). If this was done this morning, you should have more than 0 FC by this afternoon/evening. Furthermore, the CYA should be nowhere near 90 ppm given the two products that you know the PB added. If you have a lot of plaster dust, it may be obscuring the dot and causing the CYA to read high. The only way that CYA is introduced to the pool is by adding stabilized chlorine (trichlor pucks or dichlor) or a stand-alone stabilizer product (CYA). It may be worth asking the PB to disclose all of the chemicals that were added.

If he left you any of the trichlor tabs that you described, I would not use any more - not because of the CYA - but because they contain copper. Adding metals to your pool will result in your having to deal with another problem.

misplacetexan said:
PB stated I could go swimming today.
I would rethink that. Check out the Start-up New Plaster article I referenced above for some reasons why.
 
Will add approximate 87 oz of bleach in accordance with PoolMath Calculator. They wanted me to add 4 more tablets, but I think I will stick with bleach for now. Thanks for you help. Hoping I screw up the CYA Test. Will test again tomorrow.

I would do 1/2 that amount say 40oz and see what it does pool volumes can vary wildly from what the PB guesses at. Add 1/2 with the pump running and test again an an hour or so this will be a good test if the volume is correct
 
Pool was started on 15Jun by PB, actually Project Manager. I know they were at least 12 gallons of empty acid bottles next to my trash on 15Jun. Not sure what went in pool and what was use to acid wash the pool deck. Shock was added on 16Jun. Pool is a QuartzScapes Plaster. When I saw all the empty bottles by my trash, I assume he did an acid start on my plaster. I just wish was here when pool was started. Going to email Pool Builder tomorrow for further instruction. I am not going to swim in acidic water.

- - - Updated - - -

I would do 1/2 that amount say 40oz and see what it does pool volumes can vary wildly from what the PB guesses at. Add 1/2 with the pump running and test again an an hour or so this will be a good test if the volume is correct

A little bit late reading your response, already added about half a gallon, 64ozs.
 
Reading BoDarville's post about plaster dust possibly causing the dot on the CYA test to be obscured I think i would target 2 to 3 ppm FC till you know for sure. Fresh water is not going to get algae in just a day or 2 so if you keep it around 2 ppm I think you will be ok till you can be sure.
 

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Sorry did not type fast enough well being in Texas you are about to find out if your CYA is 90, if it's not what you added will burn up fairly fast tomorrow. Thinking about it now that may be what happened with the Turbo shock, if the CYA is lower than you think it got used up by the sun before you got home.
 
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