I have light staining over the entire pool plaster which gives the blue pool plaster a yellowish tinge. I had some dark small 1/2" stains that I removed with ascorbic acid tablets. This actually cleared a yellowish tinge area around the dark stain, too, for about a foot. I read about Metal Magic on here, and am wondering if people here think I should try Metal Magic to remove the yellowish tinge. I was going to do an ascorbic acid treatment, but it would seem Metal Magic would be much easier.
Will Metal Magic Remove Metal Staining?
- Thread starter Michael1
- Start date
Sometimes it is possible for sequestrants like MM to left stains. It is worth a try and if it doesn't then you can do the AA treatment.
Have you seen these articles in Pool School?
Pool School - Metals in the Water and Metal Stains
Ascorbic Treatment to rid Pool of metal stains
Have you seen these articles in Pool School?
Pool School - Metals in the Water and Metal Stains
Ascorbic Treatment to rid Pool of metal stains
I get the SAME light yellow staining as the original poster over my white fiberglass. It's very persistent but it is instantly removed with AA. Metal tests in my pool show up nothing and my CuLator bag stays white, meaning I'm wasting my money on these bags.
Does anyone know what these light yellow stains over the whole pool are from? I originally thought it was copper, but also read that AA does not work well on copper, which leads me to believe it may be iron?
You could try Jacks stain ID kit to find out for sure if your stains are iron, copper, or organic.
Stain ID Kit - 4 oz - #JMSTAINID - Stuff for the Pool - Our Stuff - Product Catalog - Jack's Magic Products, Inc.
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Stain ID Kit - 4 oz - #JMSTAINID - Stuff for the Pool - Our Stuff - Product Catalog - Jack's Magic Products, Inc.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
This is a very good idea. I really should know what the stains are. I know they aren't organic, but I don't know which metal.
Those metal stains were a never ending problem for me for yrs. Even doing JM and AA and everything else on this site, I was always throwing money at the problem.The sorce of the metal is my city water supply. After a few yrs of capturing rain water and snow melt and avoiding the hose I'm finally about rid of the stains. For some this might not be an option due to where you live. Also keeping the ph low is a big help too!
^+1 on lowering your pH
I tried a direct AA treatment a couple weeks ago, cleaned stains I'd just given up on over my 10yrs of pool ownership.
Noticed my pH drifting towards 7.5-7.6 from rain aeration and bringing it back down to 7.2 with MA seemed to re-suspend the metal staining today&yesterday(without sequestrants)
Just had a crazy t-storm roll through so we'll se what tomorrow brings
I tried a direct AA treatment a couple weeks ago, cleaned stains I'd just given up on over my 10yrs of pool ownership.
Noticed my pH drifting towards 7.5-7.6 from rain aeration and bringing it back down to 7.2 with MA seemed to re-suspend the metal staining today&yesterday(without sequestrants)
Just had a crazy t-storm roll through so we'll se what tomorrow brings
^+1 on lowering your pH
I tried a direct AA treatment a couple weeks ago, cleaned stains I'd just given up on over my 10yrs of pool ownership.
Noticed my pH drifting towards 7.5-7.6 from rain aeration and bringing it back down to 7.2 with MA seemed to re-suspend the metal staining today&yesterday(without sequestrants)
Just had a crazy t-storm roll through so we'll se what tomorrow brings
I am thoroughly confused though since United Chemical's website boasts the Hamilton Index where they claim keeping PH above 7.8 and TA low will be better for preventing stains, yet, this forum often says lower PH (around 7.2) is best to keep stains at bay. Can someone please weigh in on what is correct? Hamilton Index claims that the TA is more of a culprit for staining then the PH, but to keep the water balanced, to keep the TA low, you need to keep the PH higher.
Lots of different companies and places have lots of different ideas about how pool water chemistry should be managed. You get the task of deciding which one to follow for managing your pool and implementing it. If it doesn't work then try something new.
Lots of different companies and places have lots of different ideas about how pool water chemistry should be managed. You get the task of deciding which one to follow for managing your pool and implementing it. If it doesn't work then try something new.
Totally agreed, but is it High PH or Low PH that is good for preventing staining? Or does it depend on other factors like your TA? I just see a lot of advice say, drop your PH to keep the stains away, but is it that straightforward?
The first year I had my fiberglass pool I had bad copper staining over the whole surface, and I used those dreaded chlorine pucks.. My PH was always low, like 7.2, and I still had staining.
Low pH (acidic water) helps keep the stains away or lightens them.
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Before you spend any money on anything else, just try lowering your PH to 7.2, wait a few days and see what happens. You may like the results. It won't make it look like you gave it a strong AA treatment, but it may end up being something you can live with.
I still don't understand why other indexes have the PH targeted for a 7.5 - 7.8 or even higher range then? What's the benefit of the higher PH if it's more prone to staining?
I have no clue, Im the furthest from a chemist you will find. Im just reporting on what works for me. I have tried everything to get rid of the metal stains and from what I can tell ya if you don't completely replace your water and you have iron in your water, all treatments are a temporary fix. As soon as you quit treating the stains they will reappear. When I lower the ph the stains weren't as bad. I don't understand it either but it works for me. It's free too! Lower ph hasn't hurt my eyes or pool equiptment so that's that's what's important to me.
The recommended higher levels of ph is what is more natural to the body I believe, but don't quote me on that. Someone else can chime in on that if they please.
Michael, the way to find out conveniently if Metal Magic will work is to do this sponge test:
http://www.proteampoolcare.com/images/uploads/MetalMagicSpongeTest.pdf
Here's why that's your best route: if you buy a startup dose of MM and do the test, and it doesn't work or will take too much, you can STILL do the AA treatment but you've already bought the sequestrant you'll need to complete the AA treatment. Make sense?
PS re ph...low ph keeps metal in solution.
I suspect United chem is saying high ph b/c the want to release the metal, then grab it with product in effort to carry it out or sequester better. I may go read to clarify, but that's the ONLY reason higher ph is indicated in metals.
Eg MM does the same insofar as instruction say ph to be above 7.5 when adding sequestrant.
Okay, ignore that. The Hamilton index is its own animal and is using ph to manipulate the csi with lower TA. Their method may be a little to variable-specific.
TFP already recommends lower TA in general and is in essence controlling in a similar but broader fashion, I believe.
http://www.proteampoolcare.com/images/uploads/MetalMagicSpongeTest.pdf
Here's why that's your best route: if you buy a startup dose of MM and do the test, and it doesn't work or will take too much, you can STILL do the AA treatment but you've already bought the sequestrant you'll need to complete the AA treatment. Make sense?
PS re ph...low ph keeps metal in solution.
Eg MM does the same insofar as instruction say ph to be above 7.5 when adding sequestrant.
Okay, ignore that. The Hamilton index is its own animal and is using ph to manipulate the csi with lower TA. Their method may be a little to variable-specific.
TFP already recommends lower TA in general and is in essence controlling in a similar but broader fashion, I believe.