Shocked, floc... Now what?!

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Niclp12

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Jun 16, 2016
12
Williamson, Ga
My in laws above ground pool (13,500 gallons) turned green over the weekend. They are getting older and don't really know what they're doing so I decided to take over. I have shocked the pool 3 times, 2 bottles of algaecide, clarifier.... Did a floc this morning and as of 3:30today eastern time, it was turning a cloudy blue.
I'm hoping it settles tomorrow so I can vacuum. The pool/pump/filter they have, doesn't give you the options to vacuum on waste. Sooooo how should I go about vacuuming the floc out?
Also, once I'm done with that, what next? Should I add bleach.... I'm new at this and trying to get it clear and maintain for them. Thanks so much!
 
All I know is it's a huge cartridge filter. No where on pump to backwash, waste, anything.
Only options it gives me is high, off, lo. ?

- - - Updated - - -

Oh and I know they just spent $100 on a new filter. My father in law 'says' he cleans it everyday but I'm not sure. I have a pic::
 
I see you have what looks to be a 1 1/2" drain plug on the right side of that filter. You could remove the cartridge and remove the drain plug, then screw an adapter into the drain and attach a backwash hose to the adapter with a radiator clamp. Direct the hose were you want the water to go and this way you can vacuum to waste without ruing the cartridge.

You would need an adapter like this one: 1-1/2" threaded above ground pool hose adapter
 
How committed to this pool are you? Can the pool be routinely tested once a day? We can help, but you are going to need a proper test kit.

Test Kits Compared

Once you own a proper test kit we will need a complete set of test results including:
FC
CC
PH
TA
CH
CYA

Even though I own the K-2006, I recommend the TF-100 with the XL option from TF Test Kits. It's a few dollars more, but a much better value due to the amount of reagents you get, & you are going to need them when you correct that water chemistry. All that pool needed, and still needs, is chlorine & patience.

Then grab your favorite beverage and have a read through Pool School.

Start with the ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry. This is a great primer, and will explain the levels we check on a routine basis.

That pool is going to need a SLAM. http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/125-slam-shock-level-and-maintain-shockingl

Dom
 
Last edited:
So I bought a test kit at Walmart today until I can order the one you suggested. These were my readings before I just shocked it with 10% liquid chlorine:

Total hardness - 500, very high
total chlorine - 0, low
FC - 0, low
ph - 7.8
total alkalinity - 40, low
stabilizer - 0, low

i just vacuumed, scrubbed and added 3 gallons of 10% liquid chlorine.... Was that enough? I'm so confused and so new at this




domct203 said:
How committed to this pool are you? Can the pool be routinely tested once a day? We can help, but you are going to need a proper test kit.

Test Kits Compared

Once you own a proper test kit we will need a complete set of test results including:
FC
CC
PH
TA
CH
CYA

Even though I own the K-2006, I recommend the TF-100 with the XL option from TF Test Kits. It's a few dollars more, but a much better value due to the amount of reagents you get, & you are going to need them when you correct that water chemistry. All that pool needed, and still needs, is chlorine & patience.

Then grab your favorite beverage and have a read through Pool School.

Start with the ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry. This is a great primer, and will explain the levels we check on a routine basis.

That pool is going to need a SLAM. http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/125-slam-shock-level-and-maintain-shockingl

Dom
Click to expand...
 
Niclp12 said:
So I bought a test kit at Walmart today until I can order the one you suggested. These were my readings before I just shocked it with 10% liquid chlorine:

Total hardness - 500, very high
total chlorine - 0, low
FC - 0, low
ph - 7.8
total alkalinity - 40, low
stabilizer - 0, low

i just vacuumed, scrubbed and added 3 gallons of 10% liquid chlorine.... Was that enough? I'm so confused and so new at this
Click to expand...
How high will that test kit read FC? With no CYA your FC shock level is 10ppm. With the recommended 30ppm of CYA your FC shock level is 12ppm. This is why you need a FAS/DPD chlorine test.

Your CH is somewhat high yes, but not unmanageable. I'm guessing it got that way from bags of cal-hypo shock. Would you consider a partial drain/refill to lower it?

Yes, your TA is low, you should get that to about 60ppm and see how the PH handles it.

I was was surprised to see zero CYA. This pool has never seen a 3" tab?

For this pool, 17oz of 10% will raise FC by about 1ppm. 3 gallons would have added 22ppm, which is extremly high if there is truly zero CYA, and more than double what you needed.

It looks like you will need a bit of baking soda for your TA, and muriatic acid for your PH. You also need stabilizer to get your CYA to 30ppm to protect your FC from the sun (UV). And of court chlorine.

Have you you checked out pool school & poolmath yet? Have you read up on how to SLAM?

Also, test your fill water to see how topping off the pool will effect the chemistry.

Dom
 
Eeeeeek!!! I started the SLAM process yesterday, came over this morning and the pool is a cloudy blue, I'm getting there!!!
Will people be able to swim tomorrow?
I'm going to go get some stabilizer and more liquid chlorine today.
I've also added about 5 of the chlorine pucks since I can't be over here around the clock.




domct203 said:
How high will that test kit read FC? With no CYA your FC shock level is 10ppm. With the recommended 30ppm of CYA your FC shock level is 12ppm. This is why you need a FAS/DPD chlorine test.

Your CH is somewhat high yes, but not unmanageable. I'm guessing it got that way from bags of cal-hypo shock. Would you consider a partial drain/refill to lower it?

Yes, your TA is low, you should get that to about 60ppm and see how the PH handles it.

I was was surprised to see zero CYA. This pool has never seen a 3" tab?

For this pool, 17oz of 10% will raise FC by about 1ppm. 3 gallons would have added 22ppm, which is extremly high if there is truly zero CYA, and more than double what you needed.

It looks like you will need a bit of baking soda for your TA, and muriatic acid for your PH. You also need stabilizer to get your CYA to 30ppm to protect your FC from the sun (UV). And of court chlorine.

Have you you checked out pool school & poolmath yet? Have you read up on how to SLAM?

Also, test your fill water to see how topping off the pool will effect the chemistry.

Dom
Click to expand...
 

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Niclp12 said:
well I'm working with what I have right now since this isn't my pool, I have ordered the test kit but in the meantime using the cheapo test strips from Walmart.
Click to expand...
Until you get a proper test kit don't put anything but chlorine in your pool.

You cannot trust those test strips, especially the CYA.

Speaking of CYA, you do realize that those tablets you are using will also add CYA, right? Too much CYA and you will need to replace water.

Dom
 
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