Couple of Quick Questions

[Tonka Tuff]

Question #1: I was testing my TA with my Taylor K-2005 test kit. Added 2 drops of first dropper. Added 5 drops of second. Water turned more Blue than Green on the first try and greenish blue on the second try. Added 3 dropper and water turns light orange instead of red no matter how many drops were added. It's a pretty straight forward test. Any idea as to why this is happening?

Question #2: I ran an experiment. On 6/14 I got my water tested for the last time seriously at the pool store. Today I tested myself with my kit as well as took a sample in to the store to see what results they would get (I wanted to see how off they were). Below are the results of each as well as the action I took.

Here's a few questions:

- If I drained 6 inches of water it makes sense that my CH dropped. Why did my CYA levels go up so drastically (Assuming the initial test was even accurate)?

- Would adding 6 inches of water make my TA levels spike 40 ppm?

- During the first test, they recommended phosphate remover. Not knowing better I added it. I've been cleaning the filter every time it gets above the recommended PSI and the cloudiness is improving slowly. When I inquired as to why my FC had jumped so high the Pool service manager said the phosphates were being removed so less chlorine was being used. I questioned this as I didn't believe that my SWG could pump out that much Chlorine and also given the fact that other than adding phosphate remover, nothing much has changed in the past 36 hours. Can phosphate remover really change the FC that much?

6/14 Store	6/16 Store	6/16 Self
TC: 0	TC: 5	TC: 2
FC: 0	FC: 5	FC: 2
CC: 0	CC: 0	CC: 0
TA: 90	TA: 130	TA: ??
CH: 500	CH: 450	CH: 450
CYA: 60	CYA: 100	CYA: 100
Salt: 2900	Salt: 3100	Salt: N/A
Phosphate: 2500	Phosphate: N/A	Phosphate: N/A
Recommended:	No Action Rec
Drain 6in and Refill
Add Psphte Remover
Add 45lbs Salt
Increase SWG to 100

 

[Mr Bruce]

As long as you are not adding CYA either directly or through pucks or "shock", it won't go up. Chalk it up to bad pool store testing, CYA is the one they are usually worst at.

TA - Maybe. Test your fill water (tap) Again just ignore the pool store testing.

Phosphate remover - No clue, sorry

If your CYA is reading 100, it might be higher. Have you done the dilution test?

 

[bmoreswim]

This is the most important page on the forum...http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/123-abc-of-pool-water-chemistry

Following up on what Mr. B said regarding testing, delete the first two columns of testing. Stop spending time trying to figure out changes based on those. The test kit you have is missing one test you must have, a FAS/DPD chlorine test kit. Read the first footnote on the following page...http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/124-pool-test-kits-comparison It can be purchased from http://tftestkits.net/FAS-DPD-Chlorine-CC-s-test-p47.html

Welcome to the forum. The friendliest and most effective group of pool helpers on the net.

 

[Tonka Tuff]

Thanks for the links. I am getting ready to order the FAS-DPD test. I needed something immediately so I got the 2005 to at least hold me over so I could stop relying on the pool store results. As you and I have both pointed out, they are wildly inaccurate in some regards. I'm sticking with the TFP methods.

I've read the entire Pool School section and have used the Pool Math link as well today. Added 2 containers of 8.25% Clorox based on my FC test results. I'll have to drain and refill to drop my CYA and CH levels.

I read that I can lower my TA levels by dropping my PH down to the low 7's. Then when I want to raise the PH back up I can aerate. Is that still correct?

 

[jblizzle]

Before you order the FAS-DPD test ... also get more CYA reagent, maybe some CYA testing standard.
The SpeedStir is also a great addition.
And the pressure gauges they sell are very nice too

 

[bmoreswim]

Once you confirm what your TA is from your testing, you can then determine if you have other issues (discussed in the following link) that would lead you to need to lower TA. You don't want to lower TA just to chase a "prescribed" number.

Here is the article on how to properly lower TA...(hint - you had it correct).

http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/129-how-to-lower-lowering-total-alkalinity

 

[Tonka Tuff]

I actually read that as you were posting it. I just want to thank you and commend you on such an informative section. Pool School has given me a great insight that I otherwise wouldn't have had. Seems that if my TA test is right, 90 then based on the other levels, my Saturation Index is only .15 which is within acceptable levels (I believe). So maybe I'll redo my calculations on Pool Math to reduce my CH a few more points. I'm at 450 now and I'd feel more comfortable at 400.

 

[bmoreswim]

You're right on track - good job! If you feel you've received helpful information I'd encourage you to visit our supporter page. TFP is ad-free and a 501(c)(3) charitable organization dedicated to teaching people like us. CLICK HERE to Become a TroubleFreePool.com Supporter!! I've donated several times over the years, giving back really just a portion of the money I've saved by using the methods here.

 

[Tonka Tuff]

Will do! Thanks!