i have model #esc175 series 2 heater. last year i noticed a leak at the water inlet port. at the time the heater was working fine. i replaced the the gasket. when i turned the heater back on it cycled on and off 2 times in within a minute and then nothing. any help would be greatly appreciated. thanx.
teledyne laars heater wont turn on
- Thread starter tomdi1999
- Start date
Welcome!
If you take off the front panel and look on the back side of it, you should see a wiring diagram that will show you the basic layout of the heater wiring. The circuit with the pressure switch, limit switches, etc. is probably what's giving you problems. Start at one end of that circuit and bypass each individual component (with the pump running) and see if you can isolate it to one of them.
If you take off the front panel and look on the back side of it, you should see a wiring diagram that will show you the basic layout of the heater wiring. The circuit with the pressure switch, limit switches, etc. is probably what's giving you problems. Start at one end of that circuit and bypass each individual component (with the pump running) and see if you can isolate it to one of them.
Welcome to TFP!!
I'm not sure of the specs on a model #esc175 series 2 heater - do you have the gas valve turned on? Do you have propane in the tanks? Is the pilot light lit? These are the simplest causes for non-ignition.
Hang in there
- someone who knows which unit you have will see this and respond 
I'm not sure of the specs on a model #esc175 series 2 heater - do you have the gas valve turned on? Do you have propane in the tanks? Is the pilot light lit? These are the simplest causes for non-ignition.
Hang in there
- someone who knows which unit you have will see this and respond thanx for the reply-do you mean using a jumper or multimeter to test? also-it is a nat. gas model with electronic ignition.
If you have a multimeter set it to ohms/continuity, disconnect one end of the safety circuit from the valve and connect it to one probe and then, starting at that end, use the other probe to test continuity across each component. Do this with the pump on, thermostat up, and on/off switch on.
You can also start at the opposite end of the safety circuit just to make sure the circuit is open to begin with. :lol:
Ah, and with the electronic ignition models you might also have a flame sensor issue. Does it cycle on/off a few times every time you turn the power on/off to it?
You can also start at the opposite end of the safety circuit just to make sure the circuit is open to begin with. :lol:
Ah, and with the electronic ignition models you might also have a flame sensor issue. Does it cycle on/off a few times every time you turn the power on/off to it?
since the heater cycled on and off after i replaced the gasket(i should of left it alone) the heater has not made a sound( ignition clicking prior to lighting)
the fact that it stopped working right in front of me gives me hope that it is a simple repair.
thanx again for all the responses
the fact that it stopped working right in front of me gives me hope that it is a simple repair.
thanx again for all the responses
the flange gasket where the water pipes into the heater-seemed like a simple enuf repair.
My guess is that you accidentally knocked a wire loose when you replaced the gasket.
So, look around, and see if you can find a wire that hanging in the air. If you do find one, you need to find where it was connected to, and put it back.
Randy
So, look around, and see if you can find a wire that hanging in the air. If you do find one, you need to find where it was connected to, and put it back.
Randy
got the meter and started checking voltage according to the manual-transformer is ok and the fusible link is ok
next up were the two high limit switches- when i tried to pull back the rubber boot covering the terminals the switch broke apart. now i no longer have voltage to fusible link. is that because of the limit switch?
obviously need to replace 1 switch(silver). according to the manual it looks like i have dismantle the top half of the heater.
any suggestions?
thanx
next up were the two high limit switches- when i tried to pull back the rubber boot covering the terminals the switch broke apart. now i no longer have voltage to fusible link. is that because of the limit switch?
obviously need to replace 1 switch(silver). according to the manual it looks like i have dismantle the top half of the heater.
any suggestions?
thanx
i got it running-needed to repace 1 of high limit switches. however-i did take the top half of the heater apart(according to manual this was necessary to replace the switch-it wasn't). the inside was rust/corrosion city. cleaned it up best i could.
new issues now..
there is a rattling sound behind the temp controls after the heater is on for a few minutes. any idea what this could be?
this heater has been dormant over 1 1/2 years now up here in buffalo. its about 13 yrs old and obviously on its last legs judging by the inside. getting the pool up to 80 degrees 1 more time is all im hoping for but im kinda afraid leaving it on that long(water currently at 65).
thanks again for all responses-u guys r great.
new issues now..
there is a rattling sound behind the temp controls after the heater is on for a few minutes. any idea what this could be?
this heater has been dormant over 1 1/2 years now up here in buffalo. its about 13 yrs old and obviously on its last legs judging by the inside. getting the pool up to 80 degrees 1 more time is all im hoping for but im kinda afraid leaving it on that long(water currently at 65).
thanks again for all responses-u guys r great.