Owner Build W/ Rock Blasting - Loomis, CA - Equipment List HELP

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Re: Owner Build W/ Rock Blasting - Loomis, CA - Plaster Issues

Whoa that's a bummer about the timeline being pushed back due to groundwater. I'm here in West Sac, and when I had my pool built about 1.5 years ago, there was no worry of ground water due to the drought. In fact, I was barely allowed to fill my pool because of mandatory water restrictions [emoji15].

Anyway, your build is looking pretty awesome. I can only imagine how excited you and the family are. Thanks for all the pics!


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I don't have it in writing but have spoken with the plaster company and have confirmed the plan. (I will also ask for it in writing)

The plan is to re-plaster the bottom of the pool is the spring/early summer. Has anyone re-plastered the bottom only before, leaving the sides alone? It is my understanding that this is their plan but I am concerned with the transition from old to new plaster being noticeably different?

Next up is to finish the artificial turf in between the concrete and install the waterside. More pictures to come when that is completed.







 
I REALLY think it would be better to redo the whole thing. After that much time of sun and chemicals there will be quite a change in the color. MAYBE after a couple of years the colors will start even out but that is NOT what you have to look at and deal with.

Kim:kim:
 
Whats their reasoning for keeping the plaster on the walls? It's a small amount of material in the scheme of things and the chances of a satisfactory appearance are slim at best. Why risk disappointment again?

I feel for the contractor because this is somewhat out of their hands, but plastering a pool with obvious seeping issues during a time of record rainfall wasn't a good idea.
 
I agree with the suggestions that the entire pool should be re-plastered, not just the bottom area.
There is another important issue regarding this pool. The fact that the plasterer used a torch to dry and harden the plaster in order to stop the water leak is a cause of concern.
While I was not present to view the amount of "torching" that was going on, it is a fact that heating cement (to over 500 degrees) is detrimental to the integrity and structural strength of the plaster. It is not an appropriate way to stop water leaks.
 
Something else to consider is that the stresses on the plaster are highest at the transitions. Since plaster usually has a higher compressive strength than the structural shell below it, you are already at a disadvantage but then to add a manufactured cold joint at the portion of the pool that recieves the highest stresses is a recipe for cracking, leaks and ultimately delamination.
 
Great feedback so far, thank you.

I will discuss adding the walls as part of the replacement. I might even be willing to pay some to cover the walls if it means a consistent and better product in the end.

As far as torching, they seemed to use it limited and more to dry the plaster vs. stop the water. In my observations I don't think the gunite or plaster ever got to be over 500 degrees.
 
In regards to torching, yes, I agree that large areas of the pool and plaster surface were not heated to 500 degrees. It is only where the water was seeping in that the torching was performed.

My point is that torching (with a flame temperature of over 3000 degrees) of a small area (or spot) to either dry out the plaster, or to stop a water leak, will likely heat the plaster surface to over 500 degrees in those specific spots or areas. Even if the temperature of the plaster doesn't reach 500 degrees, there is still minor damage caused at temperatures of 200 degrees (the decomposition of calcium hydroxide, which is a component of plaster).

Also, simply attempting to "dry out" a fresh, newly applied plaster mix is not appropriate, and in fact, is detrimental to the structural integrity of pool plaster. Continued moisture within the plaster mix is absolutely necessary to properly hydrate and harden the plaster so that it becomes virtually impermeable, which is one goal of plastering pools.

My main point was to explain that where the plaster surface areas are "torched" (albeit small areas) will likely deteriorate much faster than non-torched areas. Those areas will become discolored and unsightly, and soon become a problem to deal after time. If the torched areas are severe enough, the plaster surface may simply crumble and dissolve away, leaving a void in that spot. It is that information that I want to convey for consideration and understanding.
 

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onBalance said:
In regards to torching, yes, I agree that large areas of the pool and plaster surface were not heated to 500 degrees. It is only where the water was seeping in that the torching was performed.

My point is that torching (with a flame temperature of over 3000 degrees) of a small area (or spot) to either dry out the plaster, or to stop a water leak, will likely heat the plaster surface to over 500 degrees in those specific spots or areas. Even if the temperature of the plaster doesn't reach 500 degrees, there is still minor damage caused at temperatures of 200 degrees (the decomposition of calcium hydroxide, which is a component of plaster).

Also, simply attempting to "dry out" a fresh, newly applied plaster mix is not appropriate, and in fact, is detrimental to the structural integrity of pool plaster. Continued moisture within the plaster mix is absolutely necessary to properly hydrate and harden the plaster so that it becomes virtually impermeable, which is one goal of plastering pools.

My main point was to explain that where the plaster surface areas are "torched" (albeit small areas) will likely deteriorate much faster than non-torched areas. Those areas will become discolored and unsightly, and soon become a problem to deal after time. If the torched areas are severe enough, the plaster surface may simply crumble and dissolve away, leaving a void in that spot. It is that information that I want to convey for consideration and understanding.
Click to expand...


Point understood, very good insight and you have a lot more knowledge on this than I do, thank you for responding.

I completely agree that the plaster was compromised in the torched areas and will need to be replaced but was hoping the Gunite was not weakened.
 
The gunite is thick enough that I doubt anyone could have gotten it hot enough for long enough to do much damage.

The bigger issue is the torch being used on fresh plaster that was still in a semi liquid state. Hydration of cementious products and the way they cure are critical to not only the end result appearance but the actual structure of the material and is final strength.

Heating up areas of the shell cause localized areas of high heat which can cause more water to evaporate from the plaster in those areas as opposed to others. The areas where the water seeped through the shell introduced excess water into the mix. All of those will contribute to non uniform mottling and increase the likelihood of shrinkage cracks.
 
Wow, your pool deserves to be right. I feel for the builder and plasterers, but that was pretty bad weather risk management, and it shouldn't be on you at all. Sweetening the pot at the the right stage of negotiations might yield a better job and I would do it too, but not early! Let them fume a bit.

Make sure your tiles are protected or replaced, and same batch.

I really feel for you in this. You've done all the right things and don't deserve it. :mad:
 
I had a water issue and the plaster company wouldn't do it until the seepage was nearly gone. We also drilled holes in the side of the shell to help the water drain, I put in an additional french drain above the pool to help, finally they were satisfied and it was plastered about 2 months later than expected. This was in the spring of 2011 which was our last wet year up till now. Nice pool and I like the concrete pattern and all the rock you have from the excavation, looks good.
 
Re: Owner Build W/ Rock Blasting - Loomis, CA

After more than 18 inches of rain since January 1st we are finally starting to see some progress (and the sun).

We installed the slide, still need to do some grading and final plumbing to it. Next up is some additional concrete work, final grading, installation of the artificial turf and landscaping. It seems to be the never ending project but with each step the light at the end of the tunnel gets brighter.

And yes, if you were wondering this past weekend we slid down the slide with hose water into a 48 degree pool and are now members of the "Polar Bear Slide Club". haha














Lastly, one night picture of the pool and bubblers.

 

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