hairline crack at multiport return

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J

jokaankit

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Jun 9, 2015
55
NY
Hi, I have a hayward multiport with a small crack just above the threaded return on the multiport. The crack drips extremely slowly at slow speeds, and drips slowly even at faster speeds. I was looking for advise on what product I can use to seal it with. I'm thinking a liquid epoxy is best. I haven't had great success with polyurethane in pressurized systems. I don't think I can consider it pressurized though, considering it takes a few seconds to drip. I will try to post a pic. The hairline crack is less than 3/4" in length, and is an inch or more away from the end of the threaded connection.

Hayward SPX0710X32 Side Mount Valve for S200 Sand Filter Valve | eBay
This is a listing of the product, the crack is below the warning sign. Thanks
 
I assume the crack goes to the face of the fitting where the word "return" is molded into it. You have a few options.
-Use a chemical plastic bonder like Loctite makes (make sure it is dry when applying)
-Plastic weld it (you would need to know the exact material the body is made of which Hayward could tell you, you can purchase in 1/8" dia. rods. then you will need to rent a tool which is basically an industrial hair drier.
-Not as elegant but... a stainless steel hose clamp and a small piece of rubber like a bicycle inner tube.
-Buy new.

Good luck!
 
I had a cracked multiport some years ago (tried to tighten the threaded inlet pipe just a little too much and cracked the port)

I carefully pried the crack open the best I could, then filled it with AquaMend, which is a two part "putty stick" that you cut a chunk off of and then knead it together until its one color. Then apply over/into the crack. That thing held for YEARS before I found a good deal on a replacement multiport.

I believe JBWeld makes similar puttys now, and they are available at HD/Lowes. Some reviews say they arent as good as AquaMend, but it would still be my first choice....I always worry liquid epoxy will end up where I dont want it or it wont end up WHERE I want it.
 
Oddly the crack doesn't reach to where the return gets screwed in. Its a super small crack that is as thin as hair and as small as a nickel. It was hard to get a picture after work, Sorry. The info you guys posted is exactly what I was looking for. Though I know nothing about plastic weld and which loctite you are referring to.

My experience with the jb weld underwater has been alright. The crack seems superficial as if a couple drops of superglue would seal it. I definitely agree with what your saying about liquid products being messy. IMO superglue and many putty epoxies don't hold up in the sun and exposed to extreme climates.

I will try to find info on the plastic but it might just be pvc.
 
I think using rubber and a stainless hose clamp while not as aesthetic might be the ticket. It will not only seal it off but compress the OD of the fitting and keep the crack from running due to the vibration.
 
Unfortunately the bike inner tube and clamp method wasn't successful. I can't tell if it's slowed down or not. Moisture can be felt at the bottom of the inner tube, but no wet spot on the concrete. There are a variety of epoxies and pvc primer/cement that might work. Online I found this multi port is made of thermoplastic which could be a variety of plastics including ABS, PVC and a whole lot more. Asking Hayward directly might be easier than guessing which glue will work. If it is in fact pvc I will look into gluing two semicircular halves together around the fitting. If I decide to replace the multiport I may ask for help on where to cut. I don't think the threaded fittings can be unthreaded without cutting due to location.
 
Dang, well absolutely post again IF you have to cut apart. It's not a difficult procedure to cut and glue the pvc. You have many options like installing a valve 2 way or 3 way, union, or just a plain coupling. Good Luck. PM me if you need anything on the piping.
 
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