Algae gone over night total and free chlorine levels now 0

[ruralreality]

We installed a new pool liner and have zero cya used calcium Hypochlorite to kill dark hunter green algae. 16 x 32 - 59 oz (instruct said 20 oz for 20,000 g) - in reading said to do 4 X - pool store said to do 6 lbs - we were conservative.

Shocked last night husband could not wait until PH below 8.5 (we had already added 5 lbs of PH down day prior and pool store said algae was keeping our PH high) PH was reading 8.5

Today appears the PH is down to 7.8 after I added another 21 oz of PH Down - just added another 7 oz because test strip looks more of a pink than brown
Of course sun and no cy the chlorine shock is GONE but we did get the pool to go from hunter green to blue overnight and reading at 8 am was tot ch and free chl 3 each.

at noon:

hardness 100
tot chl 0
free chl 0
PH 7.8
Alk 40
CA 0

Pool has been on circulate - is it ok to filter now that algae "appears" to be dead even if readings on chlorine 0 - silly question but is the algae for the moment dead - assume will come back w/0 chlorine in pool ?

I do have our pool robot running and before the shock the sides were so slippery it could not climb - now climbing all over and running perfectly.

We have trichlor tabs and a bottle of clarifier - cya that i should have let my husband put in the pool but after he would not listen to me about lowering the PH - - - didn't happen

How long after calcium Hypochlorite shock can u float some tabs. Should I add CYA now or wait until our next addition of chlorine.

Since we have no chlorine, at what point do we add more chlorine ? can we use CYA bottle and the calcium Hypochlorite as we do not have any trichlor powder only tabs and my understanding is that it's gonna take a lot more cya than what a tab can deliver -- tabs to "maintain" the level

We have baking soda to raise alk but don't want to push PH back up ---

I have read and read and read and re-read and I'm sure there is info out somewhere but I'm worn out at this point.

THANK YOU pool gods.

 

[Texas Splash]

Hello! Most of the proposed techniques and products considered above unfortunately would not be recommended here at TFP. For example, TFP processes do not shock a pool, we "SLAM" it (link below). No pool should ever have zero chlorine. That's simply not sanitary and leaves the door wide open for algae. We also rarely use chlorine tabs or clarifiers and other such pool store products. Most importantly, we tests our own water with a TF-100 or Taylor K-2006 - two test kits proven to provide accurate at-home results very easily.

So the first thing I would ask you to confirm is how you are testing your water. Then if you think you may have algae, perform an overnight (OCLT) test to confirm. Either way, definitely increase your FC to the commensurate level required for your current CYA. If your CYA is zero, that's also a concern as no CYA means no FC protection to swimmers or the sun's UV. You'll read more about that in the TFP Pool School section.

If you have any other questions, please let us know.

 

[Mr Bruce]

TFTestkits.net

 

[ruralreality]

Thank you for the links. Of course we would not swim in our pool until this is all resolved.

We get free testing at our local pool store and have 6 way test strips.

You said most of my techniques are not recommended. I do not see a recommendation as to what cya is proposed at this link, Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart.

I have a bottle containing the chemical Cyanuric Acid (marked clarifier). Is there something different to raise the cYa? It seems like something we have to do if we are not using any products that contain it.

 

[Texas Splash]

For CYA, you'll look for "Stabilizer or Conditioner" in the pool sections of places like Wal-Mart, Lowes, Home Depot, etc. We generally recommend the granular type because it's MUCH cheaper and works just the same.

To increase CYA via granular stabilizer, place the required amount as calculated by the Poolmath calculator into a white sock and place in the poolside skimmer basket. For those concerned about suction flow to the pump, suspending the sock near a return jet or from a floating device will also suffice. Best never to allow undissolved granules to rest directly against the pool surface. Squeeze the sock periodically to help it dissipate. Once dissolved, consider your CYA adjusted to that programmed (target) level. CYA test readings should show a rise in 24-48 hours, however some pools may experience a longer delay to fully register. Best to confirm final CYA in about 5-7 days before adding any more stabilizer/conditioner.

 

[Mr Bruce]

Pool store testing is (usually) terrible, especially CYA. We only trust our own testing.

Once you have a test kit of your own, then we can move forward. All the links in Pat's signature above are worth reading.

 

[Texas Splash]

As for the pool store ... Golden rule - Avoid the pool store for testing, advice, or many of their quick-fix products. You simply won’t get the advice/service you deserve and you will waste money on products your pool doesn’t need. Do not add anything to your pool other than what is advocated by the TFP site or its experts. You’ll have a happier pool, spend less time maintaining your pool, and probably save some $$ in the process. Stay close to the vital links in my signature below and they will serve you well.

The proper test kit (i.e. TF-100 or Taylor K-2006) is the foundation of your pool care. Why these kits? We've learned through extensive practice that you cannot reply on pool store testing, test strips, or simple over-the-counter kits. Personnel training, lighting, and product sales influence accurate testing too much. In addition, simple test kits do not read Free Chlorine (FC) or Cyanuric Acid (CYA) levels accurately or to the high levels we need. If you do not have a TF-100 or Taylor K-2006 test kit, it should be your #1 priority.

 

[duraleigh]

I have a bottle containing the chemical Cyanuric Acid (marked clarifier).

Re-check that.......clarifier is a separate product and has no relation to CYA.

We get free testing at our local pool store and have 6 way test strips.

You will not like this answer but it is true. The "free" tests are worth exactly what you paid for them. Strips are notoriously inadequate and not worth the time you take.

If you want to learn to manage your pool, you must do your own testing.

I suggest you start by reading "ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" in pool school. It's our guidance to everything we teach.

 

[ruralreality]

YOU ARE CORRECT - it is stabilizer - 100% CA !

 

[ruralreality]

TX splash - i couldn't agree more about the pool store cya - they read mine as existing even though i had never put any in the pool -- they redid the test which increased the PH -- so I can understand where u are coming from. I do have the powder CYA -- stabilizer --- (sorry called it clarifier)

We also had a problem w using/test strips from the year prior reading the cya wrong - new strips had a totally different reading. seems to be a # easily messed up.

Thanks for the direction.