Stabilizer...

[cj3737]

Hello folks...
Brand new to the pool game here...
Inherited a 24' round when we bought our new house so Ive been scouring message boards on how to maintain this thing...
Pool started out filthy as the old owners decided to move last Sept and didn't bother winterizing the pool properly... found it take about 4 months for leaves to break down into a mess that even a sand filter has an issue filtering...Water was clear but green and cruddy.
So far Ive filled, cleaned, tested, shocked, tested, filtered, tested, backwashed, cleaned, tested, added floating chlor tabs, tested, filtered... and so on...

Right now the pool is sitting at (only have an OTO at the moment.. DPD on the way)
TC - 1
PH - 7.4ish
TA - 210
TH - 230
CYA - well below 30

Ive recently added a bit of dry acid (3lb bottle.. added about 2lbs...all I had at the time) to get the TA into a more manageable range.. I haven't tested the TA yet today but I put so little dry acid in I know its not going to change the TA that much. I did test the PH and it dropped from 7.8 to 7.4. I know its going to take a while to get that in 100 range..
SO my question is, should I continue to tackle the TA or go after the very low CYA first? Ive read about the sock method for adding CYA and I plan on doing that. I know it will drop my PH in the process so can I continue to fiddle with the TA while the stabilizer is hanging in the pool or will I be counter-productive and chase my tail until the stabilizer is dissolved?

 

[JVTrain]

Your CYA and proper sanitation (Free Chlorine) is FAR more important than TA. TA is a parameter that is fine to be left for last, especially in an AG pool.

You need to get FC in your pool ASAP. That means bleach, plain bleach. Trichlor tablets and dichlor powdered shocks will add FC, but they will also add CYA each time you use them. They can be used responsibly from time to time, knowing that they will raise your CYA but are NOT recommended for long term use as they will make your sanitation unmanageable due to CYA levels that are too high.

Please check out ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry here on TFP to familiarize yourself with our methods and check out some of the other links in my signature if you are ready for further reading, especially the CYA/Chlorine chart.

Welcome to TFP!

- - - Updated - - -

Also... the test kit on the way... does it have the FAS-DPD test or just a DPD test. The FAS-DPD test is much more valuable because of it's increased testing range (up to 50 ppm FC). The TF-100 from tftestkits.net and the Taylor K-2006 kit come with this FAS-DPD test for FC/CC.

 

[Pool Tool]

Hello, welcome!! You need to SLAM your pool Pool School - SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain

In order to SLAM you need the DPD test. While waiting for it to arrive, you can focus on getting as much debris out of the pool as possible. You can vacuum to waste or use a leaf rake and just keep scooping. Read the Slam link several times and buy some bleach. Lastly, add enough CYA to raise CYA up to 20 ppm, wait several days (maybe a week) and then retest it. Ultimately you'll want to get to 30 ppm of CYA, but this will keep you from overshooting. Once the DPD arrives, lower pH to 7.2 and Slam away. You can assume a CYA of 30 until your later testing confirms what your actual level is.

An FAS/DPD kit is recommended to be able to test CC as well. TA is usually that last thing to worry about - the only way to lower it without also directly affecting pH is aeration Pool School - Lower Total Alkalinity

Read pool school and plan some time that you can dedicate a few days to SLAM. And ask lots of questions - pictures are the only payment requested for help.

Update - JVTrain beat me - Joel is a wealth of information. You will get very good advice from him, if I post anything that disagrees defer to him.

 

[JVTrain]

PT is certainly on point as well. You do need to SLAM the pool. Start with the ABCs, manually getting as much debris out of the pool and then you can move onto the SLAM once your test kit arrives, provided it has the FAS-DPD test.

It's a lot to take in at first, but we were all in the same place as you before. Feel free to ask questions or for clarification.

 

[cj3737]

K-2006C is on the way...

Pool is clean as a whistle and maintaining... Can see a yellow golf ball in the bottom from 50 yards away

Will straight up otc Clorox do the trick? Calculator says I need 1 gal of 5.25% to get it up to 5.. (wont know for sure until DPD arrives)

Can I add the bleach before I get the dpd and just use the oto to get an idea of what my levels may be?

 

[JVTrain]

It's less jugs if you can find 8.25% Clorox but any bleach will do as long as it's unscented and not splashless or outdoor bleach. You can certainly add some bleach to try to get a little start on things. Before adding bleach though, I would lower your pH to between 7.0 and 7.2 in preparation for the SLAM procedure. You can't reliably measure pH when your FC is 10 or above so adjusting it now to the low range will compensate for any pH rise that might occur during the SLAM process, when you can't measure to adjust. Don't go crazy with the bleach until your FC/CC test arrives. 5 ppm or so FC until you can test above that properly.

 

[cj3737]

Sounds good...
Ill swing by Lowes and grab some MA and Bleach to hold my tinker monkey over until my tester shows up...

 

[cj3737]

Pre Chem

FC 1 or there about
CC 1
PH 7.6
TA around 300
Using an old DPD kit that I found in the garage to get some kind of idea

Added 1 gal of 8.25% bleach

FC- well over 3 which is max reading on this DPD... much Darker pink than the max reading
CC was darker as well
PH still 7.6
TA didnt test

Added 28oz of MA to bring PH down to 7.0.. will test in about an hour

Water still crystal clear and pump running...Temp about 66