SWG current limiter replacment

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W

Wild Duk

0
May 12, 2009
75
I've researched this and it looks like a lot of people with the same problem as me have replaced the current limiter on their SWG board.

A lot have used this part from Digikey with success, however an older thread on this website:

570-1062-ND

SL32 2R025 Ametherm | Circuit Protection | DigiKey


The one currently on my board has the numbers as32 2r025. It appears to be this one:

AS32 2R025 Ametherm | Circuit Protection | DigiKey

One is 2 OHM 20% and the other is 2 OHM 25%. I'm guessing I should use the 2nd one since the numbers match to the one currently on my board?

Any ideas if either would work...

Thx
 
So to follow up, my board did have the as32 on it, which yes had the fatter legs, but it fit right in no problem. Just need to work a little on my soldering skills. Reinstalled the board and it fired right up and worked great .
It also appears that you can test for a bad current limiter with it still on the board. Just hit it with the ohms meter and see if the circuit it open or not...

Thx



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
So low resistance indicates a bad varistor? And high resistance is a good one.

Just asking because mine is giving me a reading of ~.1 Ohms. And that is testing with the varistor on the board. Oh its a Goldline/Aquarite/Hayward controller with a SL32-2R025 varistor. It works for a while and then I get a PCB error on the display.
 
I just replaced mine last week and it's is semi working. However I have one issue the chlorine does not stop generation until I move the switch to the off position So weekly I need to manually turn on the auto switch to generate leaving the dial at 1 it generates at 10% I probabally messed up when I did the repair buy saved 600 hundred bucks on pcb replacement Anyone have this issue?
Readings are:
3100
83
31.1
5p
alo
r 1.40
 
jackgit said:
... the chlorine does not stop generation until I move the switch to the off position...
Click to expand...

To my knowledge that's how it's supposed to work. If yours was stopping then that might be a symptom of the varistor overheating. The SWG will generate chlorine continuously at the rate that you select from the knob. I find a rate that works best with the conditions and I leave it there. I'll have to turn it up if there are more swimmers than normal or higher temperatures.
 
Thanks for posting quickly Usually I keep the switch to auto and dial at 40 percent running 8 hours a day. That keeps the chlorine reading at 8 After the board fix it zoomed to 12 so I turned dial to 1 and when I do I usually hear a click and the generating light goes off Make sense ??
 

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Hmm.. do you see a corresponding change in the Cell current and voltage? I have in my notes from ages ago that the cell voltage should be 22-25v when generating and 30-35 v when not and Cell amperage 4.0-7.8 when generating and 0 when not. I just checked my controller and yes I hear a relay click at about 10-20% and the cell voltage and amperage changes as expected. I wonder if its your relay.
 
I thought those units produce 100%, but cycle their run time. 10% is 10% on 90% off.
From the troubleshooting manual:
The ‘Desired Output %’ dial on the main panel sets the level of salt cell operation as a percent of the total operating time of the entire system. A simple example is that if the
pump/filter is programmed to operate a total of 8 hours in a given day and the ‘Desired
output %’ is set to 50% the salt cell will operate (and produce chlorine) approximately
half the time, or 4 hours. 50% is the factory default.

Link to manual: http://www.inyopools.com/manuals/1789/aquarite-troubleshooting-guide.pdf
 
The generating light stays on while the switch is in auto. However, it's not generating the whole time. r 1.4 has a two hour cycle time. 5 % is the lowest percentage (5p in diagnostic readings). At 5p, it will generate for 6 minutes and be off for 114 minutes. The "Generating" light will be on the whole time.

Go to percentage in diagnostics and rotate the percentage dial to see if the percentage in the display matches the percentage on the printed dial.
 
It's probably working correctly.

You have a two hour cycle time. For example, if the percentage is 50%, it generates for an hour then it's off for an hour. Try checking after the generating period is supposed to be finished to see if the diagnostics show 0 amps and -0 for instant salinity.
 
For future reference, when replacing the varisistor I have found a easy way. I just cut the legs off the old one leaving them sticking out of the board, wrap them around the legs of the new one, leaving it at a 90% angle to the old one. Solder in place them trim any excess off the legs. It leaves the resistor standing away from the board for better cooling, and it's much quicker and easier than soldering to the board. Just be sure to place it so that it doesn't contact the case or the display board.
 
From what I see.. my board doesn't have the big heat sinks on the back of the PCB so I should be able to desolder fairly easily. It looks like the newer PCB's have the heat sinks that are hard to desolder. those would be best to clip the old Varistor and leave the old leads longer to solder the newer varistor onto.
 
Some poeple are less proficient at soldering to a PC board than others. I've found that my hands aren't quite as steady as they once were for fine work, so I took an easy way out.
 
Point taken... not everyone is good at soldering

I was looking at it from the standpoint of people having problems desoldering the varistor because the newer boards have a heat sink on them that conducts the heat away as the iron heats it. I never thought it might also be easier to solder onto the existing leads. But I guess so if you "tin" both leads they should stick pretty easily.
 
I thought I would report my results.

My SWG controller would run for about 2 hours and then all the lights would come on and I would get a PCB error on the LCD. It seemed like a failing component was over heating. While waiting for my Digikey delivery to arrive, I tried the binder clip trick on the Current limiter and it seemed to run for a little longer before failing. So I replaced the current limiter a few days ago and it seems to have fixed it. I ran the system a few extra hours the first day and it looks like it didn't shut off. I tested it again today. At this point I will say its fixed. woo hoo the new cell is generating!

I'm curious if there is any connection between this and the new cell we just installed. Like the new cell pulled more power that the older failing one. I've ready a few times that these just go out to protect the system from surges. So I ordered two and taped the extra one inside of the controller with my spare fuse for the next time.

Interestingly I tested the old current limiter after I removed it. It measured 4 Ohms after if cooled off from being desoldered. So I presume it was indeed starting to fail.
 

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