Click on the pool school link in the upper right corner of every page (and in my sig) and read everything in it. Now read it a second time. After you are done post any questions you might have.
Here is a post that you might find helpful:
alternative-sanitizers-and-chemical-free-pools-the-truth-t3025.html
Also, saying that FC will not rise above 10 ppm when useing a floater and will rise to 15 ppm when in a skimmer is incorrect. The BIG fact neglected is that trichlor tabs will cause the CYA (cyanuric acid) to rise and the pool to eventually become overstabilized. (Each 10 ppm of FC added by trichlor also adds 6 ppm of CYA).
IF the granular chlorine you brother is using with EZ Pool is dichlor then the CYA will rise even faster than with trichlor tabs! (for eadh 10 ppm fc added by dichlori you are also addind 9 ppm of CYA!) If it's cal hypo that causes calcium to rise, which may or may not be a problem, depending on your fill water and other factors.
IF you are talking about E-Z pool Powder from API water products
http://www.apiwater.com/faq.php?prod_id=1 it is not a recommended product.
anybody-have-experience-with-ez-pool-chemicals-t11050.html
It is a copper sulfate based product. (In other words it's a very expensive algaecide that can stain your pool.)
If you are talking about 'the liquidator" from Hasa for sdispensing liquid chlorine (or bleach, they are the same thing)
http://www.ezpool.com/ it is a recommended product.
There is no BEST way to chlorinate. There are tradeoffs to every method but we have found that using liquid chlorine or laundry bleach has the fewest side effects and is the most cost effective. However there is more to pool maintenace than just chlorine and if you ignore the other parts of water balance you will end up with problems.
That is why we are here, to help you every step of the way without trying to sell you a product!
