Hayward spider gasket keeps failing

ggenovez

Active member
May 27, 2012
31
Hi all,

I'm getting desperate.

I have a Hayward SPX715x50 diverter. Last year I replaced the spider gasket on the diverter. It had served many years. The factory had put a blue adhesive on it.

I have tried no adhesive, crazy glue, rubber cement, 3M weather stripping... it last for a few weeks to a few months.

Any ideas on what might work?

Thakns
 
To rule out a few things that might contribute to the problem...

Do you turn off the pump before changing valve position?
Do you fully depress the handle before changing valve position?
Do you rotate the handle in the same direction when changing valve position? (clockwise is most convenient)
 
To rule out a few things that might contribute to the problem...

Do you turn off the pump before changing valve position?
Yes
Do you fully depress the handle before changing valve position?
Yes
Do you rotate the handle in the same direction when changing valve position? (clockwise is most convenient)
Yes

Yes to all
 
Ok. I think I've figured out the root cause of the problem.

WHen I removed the last spider gasket, I see an excess of adhesive on the channels. This happened even though I pressed down hard on all the spokes of the spider gasket.

I guess the real question is how little adhesive do I need to put?
 
You really should not require any adhesive. So I would just use a very minimal amount. You want just enough so that the spider gasket cannot stick to the diverter when you're changing positions.
 
You really should not require any adhesive. So I would just use a very minimal amount. You want just enough so that the spider gasket cannot stick to the diverter when you're changing positions.

Yeah, I've tried 0 adhesive and it comes right out. Factory had but some blue adhesive that was a real pain to remove but stayed in place. Wish I knew what that was.
 
I've only done this once, but the link I posted shows some good tricks. A few key ones I noticed:
Very minimal adhesive at the corners, or a very thin bead (1/16") under the arms.
It's a specific adhesive they recommend.
Then the gasket set in place so no adhesive on the sides or top of the gasket.
Then you place the diverter assembly back on (diverter still in winterize position), lowering it straight down, then tighten down the bolts.
Then depress handle fully so the diverter plate is not touching the gasket.
Then rotate to "filter" or "recirculate"
Then let diverter plate gently down onto gasket to set the gasket down into the grooves
Leave it for minimum 2 hours to set, preferably 24 hours
Then of course when operating it, pump off, and handle fully depressed when rotating
Doubt that's helpful, but just trying to cover the bases
 
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.