Anyone know where I can get the Taylor chlorine / ph comparator and reagents without purchasing an entire K2006 kit (I think thats the kit it comes with)? I have the TF100 kit buy my chlorine needs to stay around 6. I typically bump it up to 8ppm each evening and and it usually drops 2ppm per day. The taylor kit goes up to 10 instead of 5 like the current TF100 kit. I like to keep my chlorine closer to 6 but its impossible without using the drop test everyday.
Taylor chlorine comparator
- Thread starter joshua5438
- Start date
mikemass
0
Not all Taylor comparators go to 10 ppm. What you want is the 2000 series. And you can find it here:
Amazon.com : Replacement Comparator #9056 for Taylor 2000 Series : Swimming Pool Maintenance Kits : Patio, Lawn Garden
Also be aware that if you use this comparator for your pH, you are going to want R-0004, not R-0014 that comes with the smaller pH comparators. (R-0004 is more concentrated). you can use them interchangeably, but you need to adjust the amount of drops.
Two drops of 4 is ~ five drops of 14... But I prefer to use the right comparator with the proper reagent.
Amazon.com : Replacement Comparator #9056 for Taylor 2000 Series : Swimming Pool Maintenance Kits : Patio, Lawn Garden
Also be aware that if you use this comparator for your pH, you are going to want R-0004, not R-0014 that comes with the smaller pH comparators. (R-0004 is more concentrated). you can use them interchangeably, but you need to adjust the amount of drops.
Two drops of 4 is ~ five drops of 14... But I prefer to use the right comparator with the proper reagent.
The K-2006 does not come with a chlorine comparator test (OTO). It only comes with the FAS/DPD drop test. This is one of the reasons the TF-100 is a better value because you get the precision of the FAS/DPD drop test and the "do I have chlorine in the pool" OTO test.
The K-2005 comes with the DPD drop test but even that is limited to 5ppm chlorine. It does go to 10ppm for bromine.
As has bene said, the OTO test you have is not for precision, only "do I have chlorine in the pool", a little of a lot.
The K-2005 comes with the DPD drop test but even that is limited to 5ppm chlorine. It does go to 10ppm for bromine.
As has bene said, the OTO test you have is not for precision, only "do I have chlorine in the pool", a little of a lot.
Thanks for the link. It looks like I would need R-00001, 2 & 4 for this test kit. My current kit doesnt include any of those.
I was wrong about it coming in the other kits. I thought I seen it in the picture but it was the CYA / PH.
I was wrong about it coming in the other kits. I thought I seen it in the picture but it was the CYA / PH.
- May 23, 2015
- 24,400
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
You can get all of those reagents and the comparator cell on Amazon. I use that comparator and those reagents for daily testing of both normal and diluted pool water samples. The results compare very closely with the more sensitive FAS-DPD titration test.
Thanks!
I understand why the FAS/DPD drop test is superior but I would like a way to get an idea where I am at without the drop test everyday. Like days when its cloudy and I know the pool didnt use very much chlorine. Sometimes I only need to add have the chlorine that I typically would add and sometimes I need to add none at all. Maybe I am being difficult.. haha. The links above are exactly what I was needing.
I understand why the FAS/DPD drop test is superior but I would like a way to get an idea where I am at without the drop test everyday. Like days when its cloudy and I know the pool didnt use very much chlorine. Sometimes I only need to add have the chlorine that I typically would add and sometimes I need to add none at all. Maybe I am being difficult.. haha. The links above are exactly what I was needing.
- May 23, 2015
- 24,400
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
That larger comparator cell is also nicer than the standard one that comes with the K-2006 because you can test pH with it (better color ranges), FC with 1x, 1/2X and 1/5X dilution marks on the side and CYA (30-100ppm graduations).
So if you're trying to see 8ppm FC, then I would use the 1:1 (4.5mL pool water with 4.5mL distilled water) dilution marks and try to match the sample color between the 3 & 5 ppm color standards. At full strength sample water, 8ppm would sit between the 7.5ppm and 10ppm color standards and would be harder to discriminate. It's not hard to do and, once you get use to the shades of pink, you can easily guess within 1ppm of what the FAS-DPD test tells you.
But please note - you should only use the standard DPD test as a daily spot check. If you suspect a problem and need to perform diagnostic testing on your pool water (like an OCLT), then you must use the FAS-DPD test for higher precision.
So if you're trying to see 8ppm FC, then I would use the 1:1 (4.5mL pool water with 4.5mL distilled water) dilution marks and try to match the sample color between the 3 & 5 ppm color standards. At full strength sample water, 8ppm would sit between the 7.5ppm and 10ppm color standards and would be harder to discriminate. It's not hard to do and, once you get use to the shades of pink, you can easily guess within 1ppm of what the FAS-DPD test tells you.
But please note - you should only use the standard DPD test as a daily spot check. If you suspect a problem and need to perform diagnostic testing on your pool water (like an OCLT), then you must use the FAS-DPD test for higher precision.
Thanks for the info. I would still do the FAS/DPD test at least a few times a week just to make sure I am on track.
mikemass
0
Wait a sec... Now I have a question that is confusing me. With that larger comparator that I posted above, what is the correct amount of R-0001 & R-0002 to add to get the correct reading?
I am only asking about the Chlorine side. Because my current comparator goes up to 5 ppm. And the instructions are 5 drops of each. Is it more for this comparator?
Good question.. I have been looking for instructions online and cannot find them posted. Maybe someone with this test block will chime in...
mikemass
0
I just read through the Q&A on Amazon. Someone answered it is 5 drops of each. But the amount of pool water that it holds differs from the comparator that only goes up to 5 ppm. Hence the greater range. Does this make sense?
- May 23, 2015
- 24,400
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
You add 5 drops of R-0001 & R-0002 to either cell. The dye produces one color. What varies with FC concentration is the intensity of the dye color. Both cells have the same path length for light transmission (~9mm) so the comparator color standards simply reflect changes in color saturation due to the dilution of the color in the sample volume. 5 drops of R-0002 has more than enough DPD dye in it to handle FC concentrations well above 10ppm for both test sample volumes. The larger cell uses a 9mL sample size whereas the smaller comparator block uses a 5.5mL sample size.
If you are going to use the FAS-DPD a couple times a week ... Why not just make sure the OTO test stays a deep yellow? You already have that test. I see no reason to buy a 3rd chlorine test and cause confusion.
Maybe its just because I have not been doing this long but anything around 5 and above looks the same to me. I really dont want it to drop to 5 and me thinking its higher, then the next day loose 2ppm to sun and be WAY too low. I just figured it would be easier to be sure its higher than 5. I would no longer use the current OTO test I have.
mikemass
0
If you are using the comparator that only goes up to 5 (like me), then yes. It all looks the same. I have done tests this year where I know for a fact that I was above 5 and it didn't look any darker.
But this 2000 series comparator goes up to 10, so the shades should be different as described above by JoyFullNoise.
For the 12 bucks I just ordered the 2000 series comparator. What the heck, I'll be the guinea pig and give it a try. I have more than enough reagent that I can use it.
- May 23, 2015
- 24,400
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
The high FC comparator block has the following color graduations - 1, 2, 3, 5, 7.5 & 10ppm. Most people I know find the two darker shades (7.5 & 10) to be difficult to discriminate. However, on the side of the cell there are fill marks labeled "1.8" , "4.5" and "9". Those are the volumes of solution in the cell. So you can fill the cell up with pool water to the "4.5" mark and then add distilled water up to the "9" mark and get a 1:1 dilution. Filling up to the "1.8" mark with sample water and the rest with distilled gives you a 1:4 dilution. The quick dilutions can be helpful in dropping the color intensity down to a level that is easier for most people to see. Just remember to use distilled water as tap water often has FC in it. The 0.75 oz bottles of reagent will give you well over 100 tests so it's a fairly cheap way to do daily testing and save your titrating reagents for when you need higher precision and accuracy.
Thanks everyone. Mike, how do you already have the reagents for this test? I did not think the TF100 came with the correct ones or can we use something else?
mikemass
0
Joshua. I never bought the TF-100.
I got a kit from Leslie's years ago. The don't sell it anymore. But it is most similar to the K-2005 with some slight differences:
It has a comparator that has a Cl side and a pH side with Yellow and red caps. Both 'cylinders' on the comparator are the same size and are square cylinders rather than circular.
The Cl side goes up to 5ppm and reads shades of pink by adding 5 drops of R-0001 & 5 drops of R-0002. That gives you a FC reading. Then if you want you can add 5 drops of R-0003 to see if it gets even darker pink. That would be your TC reading. Then you do the math TC - FC to get your CC (Meh. as far as accuracy). All three of those indicators/reagents came with my kit.
The pH side takes 5 drops of R-0014 (very similar to R-0004 but weaker and only works with my comparator) and reads up to 8.2. This is more than sufficient of a test.
Kit also came with R-0015 & R-0016 which is the acid demand and base demand test, respectively. I rarely used them. Actually I don't think I ever have unscrewed the cap of the base demand (Low pH never an issue for me).
Here's a pic of my comparator:
Other contents of the kit:
R-0007, 8, & 9 for TA with a cylinder with bunch of ml markings on it. But the 25ml mark is the only one to use as per the instructions
R-0010, 11, & 12 for Calcium hardness (use same cylinder as the TA one)
For CYA - A small plastic bottle with 7ml and 14ml markings on it, the test tube with the black dot, and the CYA solution of course.
So that's your long winded answer to why I have the reagents already. Now with this new 2000 series comparator I just purchased yesterday on Amazon. The pH uses R-0004. Well I actually have that too. Reason being, last year I was running low on R-0014. So I went on Amazon to buy a replacement. I saw the larger (2oz) vial of "Phenol Red" and bought it. What I didn't realize is that I bought was indeed R-0004. So I have had this extra 2 oz tube with the wrong comparator. Now once the 2000 series arrives in the mail I will be able to use this solution finally.
I got a kit from Leslie's years ago. The don't sell it anymore. But it is most similar to the K-2005 with some slight differences:
It has a comparator that has a Cl side and a pH side with Yellow and red caps. Both 'cylinders' on the comparator are the same size and are square cylinders rather than circular.
The Cl side goes up to 5ppm and reads shades of pink by adding 5 drops of R-0001 & 5 drops of R-0002. That gives you a FC reading. Then if you want you can add 5 drops of R-0003 to see if it gets even darker pink. That would be your TC reading. Then you do the math TC - FC to get your CC (Meh. as far as accuracy). All three of those indicators/reagents came with my kit.
The pH side takes 5 drops of R-0014 (very similar to R-0004 but weaker and only works with my comparator) and reads up to 8.2. This is more than sufficient of a test.
Kit also came with R-0015 & R-0016 which is the acid demand and base demand test, respectively. I rarely used them. Actually I don't think I ever have unscrewed the cap of the base demand (Low pH never an issue for me).
Here's a pic of my comparator:
Other contents of the kit:
R-0007, 8, & 9 for TA with a cylinder with bunch of ml markings on it. But the 25ml mark is the only one to use as per the instructions
R-0010, 11, & 12 for Calcium hardness (use same cylinder as the TA one)
For CYA - A small plastic bottle with 7ml and 14ml markings on it, the test tube with the black dot, and the CYA solution of course.
So that's your long winded answer to why I have the reagents already. Now with this new 2000 series comparator I just purchased yesterday on Amazon. The pH uses R-0004. Well I actually have that too. Reason being, last year I was running low on R-0014. So I went on Amazon to buy a replacement. I saw the larger (2oz) vial of "Phenol Red" and bought it. What I didn't realize is that I bought was indeed R-0004. So I have had this extra 2 oz tube with the wrong comparator. Now once the 2000 series arrives in the mail I will be able to use this solution finally.
mikemass
0
Well my 2000 series comparator arrived and I used it for the first time last night.
This one:
Wanted to follow up here. Some interesting things to report. If you are reading this thread for the first time, the long and short of it was that I had a full 2oz bottle of R-0004 but not the right comparator to use with it. So I bought this strictly for the pH side. That works great. No issues there. What I want to discuss is the chlorine side:
I figured as a nice added bonus the 2000 series comparator had a Cl reading that goes to 10ppm as opposed to my current one that only goes to 5ppm (see photo in post #19). So using the new comparator I added 5 drops of R-0001 & 5 drops of R-0002. Conditions were perfect for me to get an accurate read. Sun was out, but low. Held block at arms length with my white siding on house as the background. I got a clear and definitive reading of 3ppm. No doubt in my mind. It was an exact match. (But I suspected that to be low based on prior days' tests using my newly acquired favorite toy. The FAS-DPD test).
So next I went to my old comparator (the one that only goes to 5 ppm) and again got a clear and definitive 3ppm reading. By the way, on both of these I went the step further to test for TC by adding 5 drops of R-0003. Both comparators agreed that FC and TC were both 3ppm, hence CC was 0.0. All good so far.
Test 3: Puled out the brand new FAS-DPD test. Using my Speed Stir I tested for free Chlorine. Very carefully letting the drops fall off the tip while holding bottle perfectly vertical. It took 12 drops to turn solution clear. A 6ppm Reading! (CC was still at 0 as determined by NOT changing back to pink after adding 5 drops of R-0003).
Now I am not overly concerned because at 3ppm I am ok (barely). At 6ppm I am great. (CYA = 70 so Cl can be 3 - 5 according to Cl/CYA chart for SWG). But we are talking about a 100% discrepancy here. I know the consensus of you will say trust the FAS-DPD because that is the preferred test. But I have trouble accepting that the Taylor comparators are this worthless. Sometimes I just want to get a quick reading and move on. Not have to check chlorine 3 different ways.
Can anyone see anything I could have done wrong in either of the tests I mentioned above? All reagents are fresh by the way.