IntelliChlor Turning off, on, flashing high salt, repeat...

[dfattfp]

So all of a sudden, I noticed my IntelliChlor (installed 1.5 years ago), is flashing red/green like when first turned on, then it goes to flashing green saying high salt (haven't added any), then powers off, and starts all over. Does it sound like cleaning will help?

I have the IntelliPH as well which will show the salt reading, it was always perfect, 3400, but now it says 4900, with no salt added? Clean or unit defective? I haven't had much luck with pentair products.

 

[dfattfp]

So taking a water sample to the pool store, they showed it went up to 4300 as well, another test about 4100, but I haven't added anything to the pool. Last time the report was 3400 for salt, and the intellichlor said same thing. So confused here? How does that go up?

 

[bdavis466]

A gallon of acid is nearly equivalent to adding 5 pounds of salt to your pool. The acid additions are responsible for the rise in salinity.

Do you not test your own salt levels?

The Pentair units salinity readings vary greatly by water temperature - cold water reads much lower levels. Now that things have certainly warmed up, you are getting an accurate reading of the true salt/chloride content of the pool.

 

[dfattfp]

The pool does eat up a lot of acid. I have the intelliph set that keeps it about 7.6 which is probably about almost a gallon per week. So should I not keep it at 7.6? Do I have to drain and fill? No, don't check the salt levels. Does the unit turning off an on normal when high salt (rather than just flashing the green light)? Thanks!!

 

[bdavis466]

What's the TA?

 

[dfattfp]

The TA continually drops and when it looks about 60 or so I add a few pounds of baking soda about once a month to bring it up to about 75 or so.

Pools is about 35,000 gallons

 

[bdavis466]

Try maintaining the pH at 7.8 and the TA at 50-60. Your acid consumption should nearly cut in half, if not then more.

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You probably won't have to add any baking soda either

 

[dfattfp]

ok, so for now I have to drain part way? And the unit should start acting right?

BTW, what is the affect of a lower TA and higher PH? Why is not normally recommended?

 

[bdavis466]

I would drain some water. I assume the intellichem doesn't dose acid when the salt reading is above 4200ppm? What's the point of chemical automation if it isn't dosing?

I have the IPH and had to drain water for the same reason.

A pH of 7.8 at a TA of 50 is very near equilibrium with the carbon dioxide content in the air (1.2>0.0). Aeration of the water causes carbon dioxide to outgas from the pool and is the primary driver of pH rise. If you limit the rise and reduce the effects caused by aeration, your pH will be much more stable and require much less acid in turn.

A pH of 7.5 at a TA of 80 is far less stable since the carbon dioxide content of the water is nearly eight times that in the air (7.0>0.0). Higher TAs also require more acid to make a pH drop compared to lower levels.

For SW pools, this site does recommend lower TAs with higher pH levels.