HTH 6 way walmart test kit- alkalinity testing question

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Rangeball

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May 25, 2007
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My dad brought me a sample of his water to test alkalinity as they were getting a wierd result which I just duplicated with my fresh test kit.

25 ml of water, added 5 drops of indicator which turned the water green. At about 250 drops of titrant the water turned yellowish orange, kinda like the ph indicator for 7.2. More drops did not turn it any shade of red like it's supposed to. I stopped at 30 drops.

Their pool has 100+ ppm of CYA, and I now have their bleach at 15+ ppm. Is this interfering with the alkalinity test? Ph is registering as 7.2.

If the high bleach is the issue, should I add the chlorine neutralizer drops I have from my old test kit then retest, assuming I have any of it left?
 
I'm no chemist, but just wanted to pop in to say that I have not had that experience with high chlorine levels affecting the TA test. I use both the TFtestkit, an HTH test kit and Kem-Tec strips. The only problem I have seen is with my AquaCheck strips - they record almost nil TA no matter what the chlorine ppm, it seems.

I tested water that had chlorine level of 30 with no adverse results in the TA test. (Used all 4 of the above kits on the same sample)

So maybe it is the high CYA or even possibly a high or low CH level? Have you tested CH? Or, it could be something else.
Also, how quickly was the water tested after the sample was taken?
 
With FC above 15 several of the tests can become unreliable. PH in the Taylor and HTH kits is compensated to a FC level of 15. Alkalinity and calcium often misbehave below that in the cheaper test kits (such as HTH), but generally work in the Taylor kits. The chlorine neutralizer, if you have it, should work for alkalinity and calcium, but won't really help the PH test.

One work around is to leave a small water sample in direct sunlight for several hours. That should lower the FC level enough to do the tests. The results will be a bit less accurate though.
 
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