Hi! Got a few questions.

[dody]

Hey all! Long time lurker, first time poster. So. We opened the pool about 1.5 weeks ago, and still had the craptastic hdx test from last year. PH readings were off the chart, as was the TA. I've been reading on here, and trusted your promises that if I just keep adding MA the ph would come down. It's my understanding that I need to get the ph down to about 7 and then aerate to raise ph which will then lower the TA?

Finally today, I received my tf-100 test kit. (yay!!!!) Here are the #'s that I've gotten

FC-7
CC-5
TC- 12
PH- 7.2
CH- 300
TA- 180
CYA- 0

We've been using chlorine liquid (the home depot stuff), and their MA as well. We also have one puck of trichlor in the floaty basket thing. Water is 80 degrees, and cloudy (we can see the bottom however) with a green tint in the pool, but clear in a glass.

My question- do I continue lowering the ph and thereby the TA, or deal with the lack of CYA? Also, do we need to have any (or more, as my husband wishes) of those trichlor pucks in the pool at all times? (there's $ riding on this answer, btw)

• :grin:

Thanks for all the help you've given by answering others questions, this board is a wealth of information, and I'm grateful to you all.

 

[Texas Splash]

Hello and welcome to TFP! First on the agenda is that CYA. You're positive it's zero? You saw the dot all the up as you filled the viewing tube? If so, I would increase CYA to 30 (for now).

To increase CYA via granular stabilizer, place the required amount as calculated by the Poolmath calculator into a white sock and place in the poolside skimmer basket. For those concerned about suction flow to the pump, suspending the sock near a return jet or from a floating device will also suffice. Best never to allow undissolved granules to rest directly against the pool surface. Squeeze the sock periodically to help it dissipate. Once dissolved, consider your CYA adjusted to that programmed (target) level. CYA test readings should show a rise in 24-48 hours, however some pools may experience a longer delay to fully register. Best to confirm final CYA in about 5-7 days before adding any more stabilizer/conditioner.

I say only for now because if you need to SLAM due to hint of green, cloudiness, and elevated CC reading (over .5) So for now you want a lower CYA to use less bleach. You can raise the CYA to 40 or 50 afterwards.

SO get that CYA in there right away. Once the sock is in and soaking, increase your FC to "12" and use regular bleach during your SLAM (link below). Follow that page to the "T" and you will do fine. Let us know if you have any more questions.

- - - Updated - - -

After the SLAM, we'll worry about the elevated TA.

 

[dody]

Unfortunately the black dot never disappeared, it never even got to look like the picture of the process halfway done that's somewhere here on the site. the cya will be addressed this evening. thanks so much! When you say regular bleach, do you mean something other than what i've been using? (the 10% stuff from HD) Clorox bleach? Thanks so much for the answer. I was thinking I was going to have to SLAM at some point, I just wasn't sure what order it all went in. woot!

 

[scott.lopez]

I just use regular clorox bleach from the grocery store, it's 8.25%. Works great.

 

[dody]

Sweet! Thanks so much!!

 

[scott.lopez]

Make sure you get the unscented version. Don't want your pool to turn into a bubble bath.

 

[borjis]

and not the "easy pour / splashless" either. just plain jane bleach

 

[triptyx]

Unfortunately the black dot never disappeared, it never even got to look like the picture of the process halfway done that's somewhere here on the site. the cya will be addressed this evening. thanks so much! When you say regular bleach, do you mean something other than what i've been using? (the 10% stuff from HD) Clorox bleach? Thanks so much for the answer. I was thinking I was going to have to SLAM at some point, I just wasn't sure what order it all went in. woot!

Compare prices to the HDX chlorine from HD. It's a little more concentrated than Clorox, and if the price per ounce is comparable, you may be saving money by sticking with HD's brand. They're the same thing. It's ok to compare prices for "store" brand bleaches too - just make sure to check the Julian date on the box/bottle to make sure it's not too old (e.g. you'll see 16-117 - which means 2016, 117th day)

 

[dody]

follow up- I put the above recommended amount of stabilizer into the pool the evening of the 6th, and started the SLAM the morning of the 7th. I am fortunate to not be working right now, so i've been able to check the FC levels 5 or 6 times a day, vacuum/scrub twice and day, and clean out the filter if i need to. (done once already). green tint is gone, and i'm getting nasty debris on the bottom of the pool, so yay! cloudiness continues, but i understand that to be part of the process.

the questions of the day
1)- at what point is it safe to get into the pool? i could do a much better job of scrubbing if i wasn't standing above it, but i don't want to get into it if it's not safe.

2) do i need to check the CYA again at any point in this process?

thanks!

- - - Updated - - -

ok, so ignore the 2nd question, as i just re-read one of y'all's responses above that answered that question.

 

[pooldv]

I am 100% on board with brushing IN the pool!

It is safe to swim when
PH is 7.2 to 7.8
FC is above minimum and below shock level for your CYA [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]
Water is clear

Now, if it isn't quite clear and you want to get in and brush go ahead. Just don't let kids swim when you can't see the bottom.

 

[Texas Splash]

For your questions:
1 - Anytime as long as you can see the bottom and you have not gone over your SLAM limit.
2 - Maybe confirm it about 4-5 days from the date you initially added the stabilizer just to ensure you made it to your predicted target okay.
(Oops) - Now you have to read my answer because I already typed it before reading your added-on.

Good luck!

 

[dody]

thanks you guys! i really do appreciate the feedback.

 

[dody]

so, i'm on day whatever (7) of this slam, and just need some reassurance that i'm doing this right. water is clear, but i'm still having a huge problem keeping the fc at any kind of level for any amount of time. cya is still around 30, so i'm trying to stay at FC of 12. i add what the pool math table tells me to and the reading never goes up. not after 1/2 hour or an hour or two or....... you get what i'm saying, right?

now, i know that it's eating algae that i apparently can't see, but everyday, i'm adding 3 of the BIG jugs of bleach to this pool. is there something else i should be checking? i know i'll never pass the overnight test, as i can't get/keep the chlorine levels up to slam. i am continuing to scrub and vaccum several times a day. the pool gets Oklahoma afternoon sun, so i understand that might be playing into it as well.

thoughts? i'm just going to keep plugging away at this.... and trust that eventually it will start holding, unless y'all tell me something different.

 

[triptyx]

Have you checked the ladder (including inside the ballast at the bottom, under the steps, etc), behind the light figure (if any), etc? Look at every nook and cranny and make sure you don't have algae still there.

 

[epro05]

I would check the chorine date code as suggested above. I've seen chlorine in HD that was over a year old. Basically water and no chlorine at that age. I never buy bleach/chlorine that is over 3 weeks old. Look at this chart and you'll understand why.

http://

 

[dody]

interesting..... of the last 3 jugs, the dates were 16/20, 16/97 and 16/140...grrrrrr. i totally missed remembering to look at the dates. that won't be happening again.

i'll check extra around the inlet/outlet and scrub them really well.

 

[dody]

just got back from the store with a new supply of bleach. all dated 16/160. take that algae!

 

[DKT113]

 

[epro05]

I just got back from Walmart and bought 6 jugs of 8.25% Great Value brand date coded 16 155. I thought that was good, but you did even better. Good Luck.

 

[dody]

ok. first i need to apologize. i started another thread yesterday, and realized i wasn't supposed to do that. my sincerest apologies. sorry.

here are my #'s this morning-



FC- 6
CC- 0
TC- 6
CH- 325
PH- 7.2
TA- 80
CYA- 30
CSI (?)- 0.25 (from the pool math page)
water temp - 87


so yay! i do have the metal stains in the pool, and i read that i'd have to bring my FC down to 0, but honestly after what i just went through, (10 days of SLAM) i'm nervous about doing that. how do i keep it from "blooming" if i do that? I think it was the algaecide that started all of the staining issues last year, and i don't want a repeat, so is there a preferred algaecide that won't compound the issue while i get the stains out?

i'll get some Jacks pink stuff and some ascorbic acid. do i just let the FC drift down? and then hurry up and add the acid? i've read the ABC's but i'm thinking i must have missed something.

thanks for all the help, it really is appreciated.