My Pool is a Swamp

[carpenter's lady]

I'm new here and have been trying to read up (using my phone app) but am having trouble finding things, such as Pool School. When I put it in the search I just get thread postings with those words included in them. I know I need to start there, but moving on..... I have a pool that's been unattended for 3-4 yrs (no cover). Swampy greenish-black with debris. Last time it was clear there was a small silver dollar sized bubble in the plaster in two places (several feet apart). I've checked around regarding a drain, acid wash and fill with possible plaster patching, but instead have been told I must re-plaster. Prices vary from $6k-$10k and up for special finishes. I've also been told that a plain white plaster job has a warranty of six months, but for $2-3k more I could get a 10 yr warranty for a special finish. My question is should I proceed with the drain and acid wash/re-plaster or try to clear up the water with chemicals first to see what damage there is to the plaster? Is that even possible to bring back swampy water to clear? I don't know the size of my pool other than its 10ft at the deep end (is there a way to calculate?). My pump was in working condition at the time we stopped using it but I've been told that must be replaced as well. I don't want to turn it on with the water being swampy, so I don't even know. Not sure which direction to go in, invest $10-15k or just fill it in. Please help!

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[mgmoore7]

To get it cleared, you will need a working pump. Maybe that is where to start since you need it anyway. Once the pump is working, it will cost a few hundred or less and some time to get it clear. If you need tob replace water, maybe more. You could be swimming in a few weeks. If you replaster, could be a lot longer.

Hard to know how bad the plaster is. My brother in laws pool need a new plaster job badly but they just don't have the money right now. They enjoy the pool anyway almost daily.

Also keep in mind that the plaster companies are there busiest right now.

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[pooldv]

Welcome to TFP!

First thing to do is order a TF-100 test kit from TFTestkits.net, get the XL option so you have enough tests for a SLAM. Once you get the test kit follow this process to kill the algae, Pool School - SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain.

Start here in Pool School, Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry
Then move to here, Pool School - Getting Started

 

[needsajet]

Welcome to TFP! We can get a start on the pool volume if you provide a description of shape or better yet a picture, and the outside dimensions (length and width in feet) along with your best estimate of deep end depth and shallow end depth. It will be a rough estimate, good enough to get started toward sparkly water. What State is Spring in?

 

[carpenter's lady]

Welcome to TFP! We can get a start on the pool volume if you provide a description of shape or better yet a picture, and the outside dimensions (length and width in feet) along with your best estimate of deep end depth and shallow end depth. It will be a rough estimate, good enough to get started toward sparkly water. What State is Spring in?

I'm here in Texas, land of the free flowing rain (at least for the time being). I'll try to get those pics and measurements soon and order my chemical kit right away. I'm grateful for the help. Anxious to use it as an actual pool and not a frog sanctuary.

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[carpenter's lady]

Thank you so much for the links to get me started in the right direction since I can't seem to find them on my own. Don't know if it's me or the app.

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[carpenter's lady]

To get it cleared, you will need a working pump. Maybe that is where to start since you need it anyway. Once the pump is working, it will cost a few hundred or less and some time to get it clear. If you need tob replace water, maybe more. You could be swimming in a few weeks. If you replaster, could be a lot longer.

Hard to know how bad the plaster is. My brother in laws pool need a new plaster job badly but they just don't have the money right now. They enjoy the pool anyway almost daily.

Also keep in mind that the plaster companies are there busiest right now.

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Are you talking about the big filter pump for the pool or one of those submersible pumps to actually pump out the water?

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[kimkats]

He is talking about the pump to run the filter and move the water. That has to be in working order. You can turn it on even if the water is yucky. It will not hurt the pump just run the water through it.

Can you get on a computer to do some "homework"?

Kim:cat:

 

[rahimlee54]

Personally if it holds water I'd use what you have. I have been looking at plaster patch for a pool I just opened after 3 years of no use or so. I have a few hairline cracks and two 50 cent piece size peices where the plaster is gone from the gunnite. The pool floor of mine is in fantastic shape and as long as it holds water I am going to ride it out . I just started mine up with test kit, chemicals, and city water the cost was around $500. That feels alot better than minimum 6k. I have put another few hundred in the outside area but it's a pretty nice setup that just needed some TLC to get back in great shape.

A good resource for figuring out how to work all your equipment besides here is youtube. Tons of videos just spend a couple hours watching and you'll be an expert. Shows function and how to trouble shoot and what to watch for. The reading here is also good but live action is a way faster media for most.

Jared

 

[VWFeature]

IF water is cheap and available where you are, the fastest way to get clear may be to use a Submersible Pump (~$49@ Home Depot or Harbor Freight) or you bottom drain to exhaust to drain completely, get all the gunk (including sand/dust on the bottom, etc) out, (power wash??) then refill, initialize, and you're off to the races.

33k gal should need about 50# of CaCl2 depending how hard your water is (~$20 on sale now at Home Depot) about 8# of CYA (~$35) and 50# borate if you decide to add it ($60 @duda).

Vs. SLAM-- probably bring pH down to 7.2 w HCl, ($8) plus 10 gal of 10% NaHClO3 (5x $7@HD=35 ) to SLAM and a few days to get the green out IF your CYA isn't too high (>60)

SLAM is cheaper, but many pools have been maintained w Trichlor pucks in the skimmer basket, and have astronomical CYA levels that make them hard to maintain. Mine was ~300!!

Even the cheap pool strips at HD will give you an idea of TC, FC, CYA and pH.

It's easier to read Pool School on a computer browser.
If you decide to SLAM, there's no reason not to get started now and get a head start.
It helps the experts here (not me) if you post your test results, such as they are, what there is of them.

Pool school makes this really easy.

 

[carpenter's lady]

You guys are awesome. I'm getting a little excited at the prospect of being able to do this myself without investing thousands of dollars upfront.

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[carpenter's lady]

Okay, I'm online now with my laptop. What a difference it makes it finding things on here. I'm officially in Pool School. Going to do my homework and study hard. Re: test kits - TF100 vs K2006. Thoughts?

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[pooldv]

100% TF-100, more of the tests you need. Pool School - Test Kits Compared

Click Settings upper right, Edit Profile lower left and add TX to your profile so it shows up over there <----, climate is often important in the advice we offer for your pool.

And add your pool info to your signature so we know what we are helping you with, Pool School - Read This Before You Post Be sure to check show sig under the text box on each device, it will stay checked after the first time.

 

[compumasta]

Hello!

The guys and gals around here will be able to make that pool sparkle with minimal investment(certainly not 6k!).

To answer your original question though, of whether you should clear it up or fill the hole, of course this is a personal question. My preference would be to clear it up, examine the plaster, and evaluate from there. It may not be worse than it was before, and if you can live with that in the near future, you will be happy swimming. If you find that it is in seriously degraded condition, then you can re-evaluate how much you want to spend to make it right, or not.

The folks here hate to see a pool filled with dirt, and you may find that the price to replaster is significantly cheaper in the off-season. Right now, every person who wants to swim this summer and has a damaged pool is getting it repaired and demand is high. You might be able to save a couple thousand by winter, or thereabouts.

Hope that makes sense!
-Cody

- - - Updated - - -

Also, did they mention why the pump needed replaced? Might be just trying to up-sell you and it may be OK, or just need minor work.

-Cody

 

[carpenter's lady]

One company said the pump needed to be replaced because it had been sitting (unused) too long. So my guess is they just wanted to up the bill rather than see if mine actually still works and save me some money. Same company told me that they absolutely did not do any patches on plaster (as I had described the two silver dollar size bubbles) and that the entire pool HAD to be re-plastered. He actually looked at the pool (which is total darkness) and gave an estimate. Not one company I contacted said just do a drain and acid wash and evaluate from there. They all said it had to be re-plastered. And not one of them told me I could clear up the pool with chemicals either. At this point I trust pool OWNERS (like you) over pool maintenance/repair companies. They're just out for the almighty dollar. Will update profile when I get internet back again. Power keeps going on and off. Sincere thanks for everyone's help and comments. ----from the suburbs of Houston, Tx----Renee'

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[Ncdamsel]

Don't forget to post pictures for us to watch the magic happen...That is so cool to watch how it change to a sparkling oasis

 

[compumasta]

Hi Carpenter's Lady,

There are companies that do plaster repair and not just full replaster. It depends on the damage and the quality of the remaining plaster as to whether or not it is a good idea. There are even some that can repair it without draining. Just something to think about.

Generally around here they recommend the TF-100 with the XL option. The XL option gets you the additional chlorine test reagents that you will likely need to complete a full SLAM. They can be had at http://www.tftestkits.com

Your tasks going forward include ordering a test kit, start removing debris from the pool as much as possible and, give that pump a whirl and see what happens. If it moves water, and doesn't make geysers or super loud grinding noises, go with it. Sometimes, the seals may leak from sitting. Mine sat for about 3 years and it leaked a bit around the lid, but that was it. If you have a leak in an o-ring those can be replaced.

It would also be helpful for you to become acquainted with the equipment that you have. You can post details in your signature so that the people here can give you the best information to help with your particular pool. If you have questions, take pictures and post them. We can identify most all pool equipment and help you to understand what does what with your set-up.

If you want to have the luxury of a pool, you have come to the right place to get it right.

 

[carpenter's lady]

We've had weeks of rain here so there is a lot of overgrowth around the pool, but you can see the green algae growing. Still trying to upload pic of my pump, but I did put that information in my signature.

 

[Texas Splash]

OoooohWeeee! THAT's green. Yummy. Can't wait to see the before & after pics of this one. We'll help you through it.

 

[carpenter's lady]

Yes, I'm embarrassed to post it but you guys asked. <sigh>

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