Test results with Taylor K-2006

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M

Michellene

0
May 25, 2015
3
Shrewsbury,MA
I took a sample to my pool store today and got the following results:

CYA 23
Total Chl 3.6
FC 0
pH 7.5
Tot Alk 98

When I tested with the K-2006 I got:

CYA (dot never disappeared, test water was clear)
Tot Chl: 5
FC .4
pH 7.6
Tot Alk 130

There is a large discrepancy in the TA. I have tested both the pH and TA 3 times since opening the pool 1 week ago and always get these same results.

What do you recommend for the large difference in FC and TC? The pool store said to remove the sanitizer tablet. They also recommended adding 2 lbs of stabilizer to raise the CYA.

I appreciate any recommendations you can give. I am hoping to maintain our pool this summer and avoid the $500 plus I spent in chemicals last year.

Thanks so much!
 
Hi. I just started using my kit as well, and got totally different numbers from the pool store. In the area of CH, TA particularly. They were close with the chlorine, and bang on with the CYA. I think you might be able to believe the CYA is somewhat actuate because your kit proved that right, but don't trust the pool store. Trust your kit, the chemistry doesn't lie.
 
Welcome! :wave:

The CYA is probably close to correct on both tests. It's a subjective test and some testers won't even register below 30.

The FC/CC discrepancy is logical. You'll lose some FC to UV rays just having the sample bottle sitting in the car.

The TA discrepancy doesn't really matter. Sometimes the figure they give is "Adjusted TA" whatever that means. Trust your own results. On the plus side, TA is the last thing you worry about.

What IS worrisome is the CC. Both you and the pool store indicate it's waaaaay too high. You can probably smell the pool. The only possible exception would be if you've added any non-chlorine "shock" powders. They'll give a falsely high CC reading. The low FC is also troubling.

How does the water look? Have you put any "shock" products in the pool to kill algae? The answers to those questions will tell us whether or not you need to SLAM and if so, how high to target the CYA. The SLAM goes easier with lower CYA, but not as low as yours is.
 
Thanks so much for the reply and help!

Last Saturday when I opened the pool, I added 2 lbs cal hyp (57.8%). That removed the green in the water (also vacuumed to waste lots of gunk in the bottom of pool).

On Monday, the water was no longer green, but cloudy so I added 1 lb of BioGuard smart shock (contains sod dichloro-s-triaz 63.05%).

The water is currently clear, but I wouldn't say it is sparkling. Thursday I could smell the chlorine, but today it's hardly noticeable.

I run my filter in 4 hour increments around the clock (4 on, 4 off) and use a skimmer sock, that I rinse every to every other day esp now with the high levels of pollen.

The kids are anxious to swim, but is the chlorine too high?
 
Don;ty use any more of that smart shock It has copper in it. MSDS

The FC can be as high as 10 with your CYA and be safe for swimming. The high CC may irritate skin and cause burning eyes. I doubt it will cause any long term problems; people have been swimming in ponds and lakes for centuries without testing. But you know better than I if your kids have any skin sensitivities or allergies. Let your conscience be your guide. If you do cave in and let 'em swim, raise FC to 5 before they get in.

Since nothing you've listed would cause a false CC reading, it looks like the SLAM Process process is called for. Take the time to read the article carefully. You might need theABCs of Pool Water Chemistry first to fully understand the terms. When you're ready to tame the pool, raise CYA to 30 and hit it hard with bleach to 12 FC. Once you start, keep the kids out. Maybe let ;em play today and then start after dinner tonight.
 
I will discontinue use of the smart shock.

One more question: should I trust the pool store's CYA reading of 23 in order to calculate how much CYA to add to get to 30? Pool Math said to add 13oz to get from 23 to 30, but 56 to go from 0 to 30. I'm thinking it's better to err on the side of low and retest the CYA to see where it is. How long should I wait with the filter running before retesting the level for the CYA?

I'll head to the store to pick up chlorine and start tonight. Thanks so much again for all your help!
 
Michellene said:
I will discontinue use of the smart shock.

One more question: should I trust the pool store's CYA reading of 23 in order to calculate how much CYA to add to get to 30? Pool Math said to add 13oz to get from 23 to 30, but 56 to go from 0 to 30. I'm thinking it's better to err on the side of low and retest the CYA to see where it is. How long should I wait with the filter running before retesting the level for the CYA?

I'll head to the store to pick up chlorine and start tonight. Thanks so much again for all your help!
Click to expand...
You are correct. Work up slowly on the CYA until YOU get a reading and know where you're at.

If you use granular CYA, it'll take a day or two to dissolve (be sure to use the sock method) and another couple days to be fully dispersed and testable. Just assume it's all there. Liquid CYA -- aka Liquid Gold by the price -- should register in about an hour. If you use dichlor powder - plain stuff, with no copper or clarifiers -- it'll register in an hour or so. Trichlor will take as long as it takes for pucks to dissolve to show the CYA increase.

Clear as mud, right? ;)

Don't stress. In a couple weeks, this'll all be totally routine and you'll wonder why you ever thought it was confusing.
 
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